jonford

I think i have made my decision. I think i will get a 49mm polariser (the max thread size on Mamiya TLR lens is 49mm - covering myself if i was ever to buy the 65mm lens) and get step up rings for my 55mm lens (46mm thread) and my 105mm lens (40.5mm thread). I will also buy black and white curcular filters 49mm also and probably keep these attached to step up rings. I am going to forget about filter holders, firstly as they are too large and fiddly really for the set up, and secondly, glass ND filters are very expensive (resin are cheaper bu get covered in scratches) so i have decided on circular ND's which are cheaper (looking at Firecrest from Hitech which are made from the same schott glass as their square filters - supporting the local company!).

I hadnt thought of having a polariser on both the viewing lens and taking lens. If i did, how would i make sure the bottom filter was the same as the top? One thought maybe stack them, making sure they are lined up and then mark them so the markings are in the same place on both filters? Any thoughts about this? Regarding the square filters, the firecrest (and others such as lee and Wine Country) use circular polarisers infront of or behind the holders. The firecrest polariser attaches to the lens and the holder onto the filter. The polariser works with or without the holder. Square filters slide into the holder in front of the polariser. One reason i had considered the holder system is i would be using B&W filters (yellow etc) and i am not quite sure about stacking filters. Any thoughts on brands?

Thanks for the reply. The lens hood I believe fits over the lens barrel (if it is like the hood on my 105mm lens) so should slip over the filter. But I would look at screw on hoods that attach to the threaded front of the filter. With the firecrest system, the holder would be attached to the polariser when it is attached to the taking lens. It would block the viewing lens but the shot would be composed already so wouldn't matter. I am just wondering whether a larger polariser on a smaller lens would work just as well as a polariser closer to the lens diameter.

I had a 50mm sigma macro lens, used it for loads of stuff. I would definately seriously consider a dedicated macro lens over the other options, and a prime lens if possible.

Firecrest Formatt Hitech vs B+W MRC vs Marumi. I am looking for a polariser for my Mamiyaflex. My aim is to compose with the viewing lens and then mark the top of the filter when its rotated enough and then screw into onto the taking lens and rotate until the mark is at top. I am looking at two options. The first is to screw the filter onto the lens, probably getting the filter for the largest thread for the mamiya lenses which is 49mm and then using step up rings on the smaller threads. This option also allows for the use of lens hood. The second option (using the firecrest, although the filter can be used independently) is getting the firecrest holder with polariser. Having the holder then allows me to use ND grads. The polariser will be used the same as option one but with the benefit of the holder for extra filters. My question is if i went with option two is does the size of the polariser matter in relation to the lens size? The firecrest is 82mm. Will this have any impact on using it on 49mm thread lens in terms of the effect? Is it better to use a polariser closer to the thread size? Also thoughts on the three filters?

Using a levelling base removes the need to fiddle with the legs to get it dead level. Anyway, bought a second hand Gitzo GT2542LS from a local shop and an Arca Swiss Monoball P0. Both can take a massive weight.

I have the chance to buy any one of the above. I have been able to handle the GT2542 in a shop and liked the feel of it. But i have read the 3 series are better if you have a choice between the 2. The GT1348 mountaineer is the cheapest, followed by the GT3530 then the 2542 (by about £40). Has anybody had any experience of these and have a preference? I quite like the 2542 and 3530 because they are systematics and neither come with the centre columns. I will be using it for still life, landscape and panos so needs to be sturdy (maybe the 3530 would be better?) I will be using a Mamiyaflex with paramender and ball head, and nodal slider, so the load isnt going to be massively heavy.

I had a similar device for a rolleiflex. SCL i do intend to buy a panoramic adapter (RRS or other brand) at some point but just a nodal slide will do for now, which will attach to the pano clamp. I dont think you can buy your suggestions in UK. I am definately leaning toward the Arca Swiss P0 monoball, even if it is the most expensive. Next up is a carbon fibre tripod!

Just looking on WEX and pan & tilts all seem to be either light but can't take a heavy load, heavy load but heavy head, and/or not very compact. the Arca Swiss, and my vanguard probably (haven't tried) can fit in a deep pocket. Also when lining up with a bubble level I find the ball heads quicker. But I do like the look of the geared p&t heads for precision. Probably not for me right now though.

I had considered a pan & tilt as an alternative to my ball head, but because the panning mechanism is on the bottom of the head I would still need either a levelling base to level the head to be able to produce level panos with heads rotation, or a panning clamp on top of the head with bubble level so I could level all axis to make sure the top of the head is level to be able to produce perfectly level panos. So I may as well stick with the ball head if I go down that route and buy either a levelling base, or pano clamp with spirit level. This is the cheapest option but you are adding to height and weight with each component.

I shoot landscapes with my Mamiyaflex C2 and I have been looking at ways at slimming down my kit to make it as efficient to the task at hand. I am interested in shooting panoramic at some stage so require a panning clamp. As I shoot 6x6 I do not need to be able to shoot in the portrait position, so do not neccessarily need the ball head, but buying a panning clamp and attaching that to the ball head in place of the existing clamp is probably the cheapest option. So option 1) buy a panning clamp and attach to my Vanguard ABH-340K ball head, then buy nodal rail etc. Option 2) get rid of the ball head and buy a levelling base and attach panning clamp to the panning base. This to me seems the most compact option and since I do not use much vertical panning (up and down) the movements seem minimal and probably fast to set up is (as long as the required levelling of the base does not exceed 15 degrees or so). Price varies depending on brands of base and clamp and how many 'parts' you need. Depending on attachments, for example, a sunwayfoto set up would cost in the region of £150 for the base, a attach to that base, and pano clamp to attach to that clamp (pano clamps do not seem to have the threads to attach directly to the levelling base). Option 3) I have found a good deal on the Arca Swiss monoball P0. Having watched videos it seems this head can act as both a ball head and panning clamp as the heads panning mechanism is above the ball rather than underneath it meaning I would not need an additional panning clamp, or levelling base. This option is the most expensive. Eventually I will be using a nodal rail and will also use the paramender accessory for the Mamiya to correct for parallax so there will be a decent weight on the head, but all options can hold 20kg or so. Does anybody use a similar set up? Or have recommendations? Thanks