david_nash

I've been offered a used Coolscan 4000 ED that has had little use, and been

well looked after. I would use it to scan 35mm slides (Velvia 50, and Kodak

100 and 200). Although I have medium and large format cameras, I don't really

want to pay the extra for a medium/large format scanner at this time. Most of

my slides are mounted in plastic non-glass mounts. I don't really require

massive scans - they'd just be for viewing on-screen, and printing up to A4.

I don't want to spend ages tweaking each scan - I'd rather just set everything

to 'auto' if possible, and let the machine get on with the job. I usually get

the lab to scan to CD when I get my slides developed, but the quality of their

scans can be awful at times - sometimes they're not even in focus.

 

The guy is asking around $700 (350 pounds sterling). I'm not sure how the

quality/speed/ease of use would compare with newer (and possibly cheaper)

scanners.

 

Thanks

 

David

Nice setup, Rob! I may try experimenting with foam-core boards. Where do you buy these from? - I'm not sure if they're an 'arty' or a building product... Also, are they available in different finshes (glossy/matt, etc) and if so, which is better?

It's taken me a long time to get around to it, but I'll be picking up a CA2505

projector in a couple of weeks. I've already got a tripod-mounted screen, but

it curves at the edges, and isn't anything like flat.

 

I've read some of the previous posts, and it seems that a matt white screen is

best. I don't want a permanent installation, but do all tripod screens suffer

from poor flatness? It will have to go against a wall with a sloping ceiling,

so from floor to ceiling is just under six feet. The wall isn't white. I

assume the screen has to be square to accommodate vertical and horizontal

shots. Is a tripod screen okay (and if so, which make), or is it better to

tape some material to the wall, or perhaps use those foam-core boards I've

read about? I'm not sure what they are, and isn't there a problem with seams

if they have to be joined together?

Hi Marco

 

I also am a fan of the Rollei 35. I've not used one with a Tessar lens, but the f2.8 Sonnar is great (and reputedly 'better').

 

Some people hate it's ergonomics, but I think it's fun to use. I picked up an external rangefinder for next to nothing, and that can be mounted on the hotshoe for critical focussing at wide apertures and close distances.

 

I use mine with slides, although I nearly always use an external meter with every camera I own, so I tend not to use the internal meter. However, it's probably fine once you're used to it, and especially so with print film.

 

Having said all that, you really don't need to use any accesories with it - the bare camera is capable of great results, especially once you're used to it's wee quirks, and it's immensely satisfying to use.

 

David

I'm still working on it. I've given him two weeks to answer my letter (I've checked with the Post OFfice that it was delivered). Last night I emailed him from someone else's email account, asking him whether he could repair a similar camera, and what the turnaround would be. He replied withing five minutes of sending the email, saying it would take 72hours and would cost ?60, and to send a cheque to his postal address with the camera.

 

I then sent another email from my account saying that I'm getting frustrated that I can't get hold of him, and asking him when I can expect to receive my camera, but he's not replied to that one. He must be avoiding me for some reason.

 

My sister in law used to work for the Citizen's Advice Bureau, so my brother's going to ask her what I should do. I also do a lot of work for a number of solicitor's offices, so I could maybe ask one of them about it. I suspect the police wouldn't be interested - they never seem to be when you need them!

Thanks for all the heplful advice. I'm pretty laid back about things, so I'd not be too bothered if he's been just too busy to have looked at it, although there have been a couple of trips during the past few months when it would have been the ideal camera. I've even picked up some nice B&W filters for it in the meantime, so I hope it does turn up. I checked with my bank today, and the cheque was cashed a few days after he received the camera. I'll give him an extra week or so to respond to my letter, and then I'll chase him again. I did get a phone number through a 'whois' search as suggested - I hadn't thought of that, nor of some of the other routes available to me. I don't want to name him now, but if I run into major problems then I'll let you know.

 

Thanks again.

 

David

I just wondered if anyone else has had a similar experience.

 

I needed a repair to my camera. I emailed a guy who has a website

specialising in this type of camera explaining my problem. Within minutes he

phoned me back and we had a chat about it. I didn't get his phone number as

it was witheld. He told me to send him a cheque along with the camera and he

would check it out - he didn't think there would be too much wrong with it. I

sent it using recorded delivery, and with adequate postal insurance, and I

emailed him to tell him to expect it the next day. He emailed back, thanking

me for letting him know.

 

That was on 4th September last year.

 

I've not heard anything from him since.

 

I emailed after a month or so, just to ask if he'd received it okay.

 

Since then I've emailed him maybe three times, each time asking if he'd

managed to have a look at it. Once was at the start of December, and I

received an automated 'out of office' message saying he wouldn't be back until

15th December. However, he didn't reply on or after that date.

 

Almost two weeks ago I sent him a letter by recorded delivery asking him to

contact me and let me know how he was getting on...

 

So far he hasn't been in touch.

 

I live in the UK, and so does the repairman. His website does say that

repairing these cameras is not his full-time job, but he has been recommended

as a source of repair in the UK photo press in the past.

 

I don't really know what to do next. Perhaps one day my repaired camera will

turn up (ever the optimist!) but it does seem to be rather a long time coming

(I'm not sure if it's normal for repairs to take this long), but the fact that

he doesn't reply to me is the worrying bit.

 

I do have insurance for my photo gear, so maybe I could contact the insurance

company for advice. However, there's probably a clause in the small print

exempting them in this sort of case!

 

I'd appreciate any advice.

 

David

I think it'll be fine, Robin. I'm not sure about those particular stands you mentioned, but it'll certainly be sturdier than any dedicated projector stand I've ever seen. I won't use a tripod head. The Linhof centre post has a 90mm diameter clamp, and you can buy a matching 90mm plate to screw to the base of the Gitzo platform, which in turn will locate in the clamp of the tripod.

It sounds good, Chris! I can't wait to get mine now - hopefully at Christmas. What did you end up doing for a screen, and are you happy with it?

Thanks for that, Colin. I'll just need to keep my eyes open for one now...

Hi

 

I know Leica list an angle finder for the R9 in their catalogue, but I just

wondered if such a thing was available for the SL2, and if so, what do I look

for....?

 

Thanks

 

David

Chris, I know the CAA2500 is heavy, but as the weight would be directly over the centre of a tripod, and you'd be setting it up on a flat, level floor, you may not need a tripod that's too beefy. My Linhof outfit probably weighs around 30lbs, and the geared centre column is massive too. I sure you could sit on it and crank it up... However, something like a Manfrotto 074 (with centre braced legs) would probably be fine. I've used a 10x8" monorail on one of those. It's nowhere near as stable as the bigger tripod when you've got the camera canted off to the side at obscure angles, but it could probably cope fine with the projector. I suppose the other thing to test is whether or not there's any wobble when changing slides when it's set to the correct height (leg extension).

I'm getting a CA2502 very shortly (I'm excited too), and will look at upgrading from the old tripod-mounted screen we've had in our family for years. What is the polystyrene foam core board that others have mentioned? I visualise the polysteyrene sheets used to insulate internal walls in houses, but that has a pretty rough texture. It must be something else...

 

I was thinking about a sheet of 4' wide MDF painted white, with a black edge. It would need some sort of base, or some way of attaching it to a wall. Perhaps a 4' x 8' sheet could be stood upright on the floor, with the top part painted white as the viewing area, and the bottom half painted black.

 

As for a stand, I'm going to get one of those Gitzno/Manfrotto/Bogen projector platforms that attach to a tripod. Obviously, a lighter tripod may not be up to the job, but I have a huge Linhof tripod with geared column, and it's more than man enough for the job of supporting a projector. It will make it easier to get the projector at the correct height.

Hi Jason

 

If you email me directly I'll let you know where I've had the camera repaired. I don't want to make the details public - there may be complications!

 

Regards

 

David

Alfred Dunhill, London <a href="http://www.dunhill.com" >(here)</a> makes upmarket leathergoods, gifts, and jewellery for discerning gentleman - or something like that!

I assume Melvin is referring to the Rollei 35RF (the Voigtlander Bessa R2 in a new set of clothes) which has 40mm, 50mm, and 80mm frame-lines. Unfortunately, I've never owned one. As far as I know, Rollei only ever got around to making the 40mm Sonnar lens for this camera, so there may be limited choice in the 80mm range, although maybe it's possible to get used to the framing with either a 75mm or 90mm lens - also a 35mm lens. I think the metering was with three LEDs, so you just adjust aperture and shutter speed until you get a correct reading.

Many thanks for the detailed reply, Robin. I really appreciate it. I'm going to phone tomorrow to see if the CA2502 is still available.

 

I know the newer Kodaks are supposed to be excellent, but I must say I'm a wee bit against them because of my experiences at a photo club a few years ago. They had a couple, but, depsite being regularly serviced, they used to jam pretty frequently (perhaps just due to a mix of everyone's differing slide mounts), plus they were noisy and pretty uneven in brightness. When they eventually splashed out on a new Rollei 35mm projector I couldn't believe the difference - it was so crisp and clear (although it would still jam!)

 

I'm really looking forward to getting a new projector!

I suppose Leica will only worry if their M8 ends up on the same list as the Sinclair C5...

Thanks, Robin. The Kodak website says Kodak stopped making projectors in 2004. I'm not sure how the RT-m/RT-s are still on the go - maybe they had sufficient quantities in hand to keep on selling them, and the market is probably quite small these days.

 

The other option I've come across is a newspaper ad for a CA2505 at around $640. It says it's mint with very little use, and with original manuals and packaging. The only thing is, it doesn't have a Colorplan lens, but a Leitz 60-110mm Vario Elmaron-P ( I don't know how that compares, although it may be a useful lens to have). I do have the secondhand COlorplan lens, which may or may not fit the CA2502 or P2002. However, it also has some accessories described as Leitz Hood (Top Cover "C" series"), Leica Carrying Case P-2000, Leica Infra Red Remote control, Leitz Timer Comp. "C" Series. Not sure what the Leitz Hood or Timer Comp. are.

 

I'll need to phone the seller to see if it's still available.

 

What are the differences between the CA2502 and the P2002? Is the 2002 a better choice if I can stretch to the extra cost?

Is the RT-m much better than the P2002, and if so, in what way? How does image quality compare? Also, slide transport, noise levels, light source, condensor etc.

 

I don't know if I have a preference to either straight trays or carousel. I do have a handful of straight trays, but it wouldn't be too bad to transfer any slides to round trays.

 

The RT-m doesn't seem to be selling cheaply here in the UK (it's around $3400 with Super Colorplan). The P2002 I've been offered (with Colorplan) is supposedly 'ex-demo' that has never been used - at around $1200. I thought that was quite expensive for an 'obsolete' unit, but when I mentioned that to the dealer he spluttered and said that they were $4000 when new. He also said the Colorplan lens with the P2002 is better than the current version.

 

I did have a quick look on Ebay, and there are some cheap units, but I just don't fancy buying this sort of thing on Ebay - I can't be bothered bidding. I'd consider a 'buy-it-now' item, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for, or how to check out who I'm buying from.

Sorry, I posted the message before I could sort out the funny control codes. The values are in UK pounds... almost double them for a dollar price.

I?d like to buy a new projector, but am dithering about which one to go for.

I currently have a cheap Reflecta complete with plastic lens and 150Watt

bulb. I recently bought a secondhand Leica Colorplan lens which physically

fits this projector, but unfortunately it doesn?t focus ? it must be the

incorrect version of the P lens.

 

The choices I have are ? buy a Leica 253 with lens from a local dealer for

around ?200. This dealer also has a new P300 body for around ?370, plus

lens. A Kodak Ektalite 1500 with zoom lens for around ?400. A Kodak EktaPro

3000 for ?400.

 

Another dealer is listing a secondhand P2002 with lens for ?600. I know this

is a highly thought-of projector, but it seems quite expensive for a used unit.

 

Another dealer has an ex-hire Simda 3462. This is a French-made carousel

projector with a 400watt bulb, and supposedly super-built. However, I?m not

sure what condition it?s in. It?s ?300 for the body (I think they?re over

?1000 new). Also, it doesn?t have autofocus, but I?m not sure in what

circumstances this would be a disadvantage.

 

Do any of the above options leap out at you? Or is there a better

alternative? I haven't been able to get my hands on any of these projectors -

even my local dealer has them in storage, so I can't just wander in and try

them. The others would have to be purchased mail-order.

 

I?m in the UK, but would consider a projector if anyone has one for sale.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The dishwasher routine appeals! At least I'm not the only one who's found the slide mounts to be dirty straight from the box. I'm expecting my first set of 35mm transparencies back from the lab soon, so will try projecting them first without the glass mounts. However, I've recently bought a secondhand Leica Colorplan lens (FF, I believe) and I'll try mounting one of the slides in a glass mount to compare the mounted/unmounted results. I've also bought an old Agfa 6x6 push-pull projector, and would like to mount some of my 6x6 transparencies. The Gepe 6x6 AN glass mounts are also fairly dirty (maybe not as bad as the 35mm ones) so I'm probably going to have to get to grips with glass-mounting at least one of the two formats. A new 35mm projector may be an option - I hadn't realised that some projectors 'pop' more readily than others...

Thanks, everyone. I've been in touch with ReallyRightStuff, but they don't make an L-bracket for my 35mm camera (a Leicaflex SL2), and they say they don't know anyone who does!

I know they're not meant to be crystal clear (due to the AN glass) but they definately have a haze on them, and they have sort of 'drip' marks on them - almost like a snail has crawled over them (I'm using my imagination there!) I checked one as soon as I removed it from the box, and they're far from clean. Washing them removed the haze, but maybe something like screen cleaner or alcohol would be better. Maybe I could try another pack from a different supplier - it's possible they've been sitting on a shelf for years - I don't suppose there's much call for them these days.

 

If they're supposed to be fine as shipped, do you do anything to prepare them before sandwiching the transparency?