evan_bedford2

One big advantage of film is that you can pop a non-rechargeable lithium battery in the camera when you're in an arctic blizzard, and you know that the device has a better chance of working than a digital with its rechargeable lithium. (the two types of batteries are at the opposite ends of the spectrum when it comes to cold weather hardiness). I've also read that the f6 has been thoroughly tested in very cold conditions.

Here's the answer I got from Nikon Canada: "I understand your frustration. The F6 is a current model that is still serviceable and all its parts available. Unfortunately the part required to perform this modification is from a much older model that is no longer supported and its parts are no longer available. This leaves us unable to provide the modification service outlined in the manual." I subsequently asked what the older model might be, but haven't heard back yet. And who knows? Maybe Nikon USA still does the modification (they haven't got back to me yet on that, either).

Thanks. I'll give him a shout. Strange that even the uber-expensive PC-E shift lenses (except for the 85mm unit) don't seem to be compatible with the f6...unless I'm reading the manual wrong.

Thanks, but I suspect I can't do that...though I'd love to be corrected. Two of my favorite lenses are the PC Nikkor 28mm f4, and a 24mm Zuiko shift with a Leitax adapter for Nikon. They both work quite well on my Nikon Df, but I really have the itch to ditch my f100 in favor of an f6

I'm very disappointed to learn that Nikon (in Canada, at least) no longer does the modification which allows the f6 to use non-AI lenses. They're still quite happy to sell the cameras, though. This really puts a damper on my yearning for one.

BeBu is correct. The lens gets stopped down manually, and the camera also gets told -- via one of the command dials -- which aperture the user just stopped down to.

I just did a few more test shots, and this seems to be the case.

Should this also only be done with manual exposure and manual ISO selection?

Hmm. That seems to have done the trick. I metered wide open, but then I stopped the lens down and also made sure the sub-command dial was set to the stopped down level also. Thanks Bebu!

Well, I did a bit of experimenting with all the possibilities: stop down, wide open, telling the camera it's either an Ai or a non-Ai, using the command dial or not using the command dial to inform re aperture, manual vs aperture priority, as well as the 3 different metering modes. But nothing works. And I did compare with the same lens on a Sony A7s (with adapter), since I know it handles exposure well. The only two routes the Df takes are either quite over-exposed or quite under-exposed. This is even though Nikon explicitly states that PC-Nikkor lenses work with the Df ( Nikon | Imaging Products | Lens compatibility - Nikon Df ).

Just before the battery died -- on a whim -- I changed the camera's setting for the lens to Ai, and took a shot. I think it significantly reduced the shutter speed for the shot.

No, I've been metering while the lens is at the closed aperture. And yes, I'm metering while unshifted.

Thanks Brian. I'll try that. (I have to wait for the battery to charge, since it just died on me).

So I've inputted the lens data and coupling method. I've assigned a function button to select the lens. I've selected it. ( all as per p.164 to 168 in the manual). I have the camera on manual exposure. I've matched the lens aperture to the camera aperture setting. (The lens is a 28mm f4 shift). But when I adjust ISO and/or shutter speed to zero the exposure indicator in the viewfinder -- and take a photo -- I consistently get shots that are overexposed by 2 or 3 stops. (And the stop-down mechanism on the lens works fine). I also have an AI lens, which works perfectly with the camera. Anyone else run across this problem? Thanks in advance.

Even better using the ten second timer, instead of having my finger press the shutter. Somewhat anomalous results (to be expected) with the one second and half second turning out sharper than the quarter second. However, I can guarantee that I'd never be able to get a reasonably sharp one second shot with just the monopod without the rope.

And here's the result with the rope.

Maybe this is old hat. I dunno. But I strung a long loop of rope from the top of a monopod down to the ground to form a rough triangle. Apex at the top of the monopod, and the two base corners being spread out and stepped on by my feet. Then I pushed the monopod forward so as to create tension on the rope, and compression on the monopod. Edit: I forgot to mention that the base of the rope was rearward of the point of the monopod (therefore, another rough triangle demarcated on the ground). Without the rope, I was able to get a relatively sharp shot at 1/15 second. With the rope, I got it down to 1/8 second. Not very scientific, since I only did one trial with each method (but with several shots in each from at least 1 second down to 1/30 second. The initial image is without the rope. It also compares the same vantage point made months earlier with a tripod.

I hear you. I'm done with scanning MF. If I shoot MF, i just do slides, and then put them in Gepe holders. Then I just occasionally look at them over a special magnifying light box. More and more though, I'm going back to 35mm, and then getting the photo store to scan me a CD with 1,000 dpi images. If something is special -- and quite often with Rollei RPX 25 film, there is something special -- I can quickly scan at 5,000 dpi with a cheap plustek scanner. On top of that, I always have my Sony A7s with me that can take up the slack and make videos and stereo photos with (also a Fuji W3 to help out with the latter).

Nope, you're right. I was wondering myself, since on my first roll through an R8, the shake seemed similar with or without lock-up. But having finished the roll, I took the lens off and confirmed that the mirror does indeed flip up for the MLU function. Seems the shake with MLU is just the mirror going back to its normal position after the shutter has opened and closed.

Gee, I wish Coleman had told us how he REALLY felt. (wow) Karsh certainly didn't depersonalize Churchill. He intentionally got him p___ed off during the shoot, in order to get the iconic growl.

I'm crazy head-over-heels in love with the prism housing on this thing.

Nothing is written on the camera. It's written on a small square of masking tape. Please read the post. And relax (life is short).

I've heard that some people like to look at them. Other than that...hmm...I'm not quite sure, now that you mention it.

Abusive? I'm honoring the slot by treating it as a frame.

I had to replace a foam seal the other day. With an exacto knife, I took me less than 5 minutes.