james_conrad

Hello,

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Aside from B&H, who else has a ready supply of ULF film formats for Bergger and Ilford films, I need 12x20?

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Thanks!

James

Yes, yes and yes again, take the LF gear and use it!! I was in

Chamonix (about 90 minutes from where you will be) in 1999 and wasnt

able to take the LF gear. You don't really need a photo guide,

opportunities just present themselves in this area. Just get a good

road map.

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James

Hello All,

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I am working on a little project and would like some of your constructive input on cameras. When it comes time for purchasing a new LF camera 4x5, 8x10 etc. what are you looking for in that camera? I would like to stick to folding field type cameras for comparisons.

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Do you go to the used market or new and why? Are there brands that you consider to be the best and why, is it because of price, movements, manufacturer? What movements are critical for you? How much bellows extension do find most useful 12�, 24� and/or interchangeable bag bellows? Do you feel there is a need for a moderately priced folding field camera made in the US? Is there a consideration in lens board design and what is the most universal lens board? Why is a price tag of approx. $2500 the norm for 8x10 field cameras and do you feel this is acceptable? Maybe from a retailers perspective, what is the normal markup on LF equipment?

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And, to boil it all down I guess what I am trying to figure out is if you could buy a US made 4x5, 8x10 or larger view camera for a little more than the prices of what you pay for a tachihara or shen hao, what features would it have to have to sway your decisions to stray to something new?

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I know there is a lot of questions here, so don�t feel the need to answer them all unless you want to, just looking for a nice well rounded view from everyone.

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Thank you for your time and help.

James

Hi Frank,

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I recently embarked on the same adventure but built a 12x20 back for

my 8x10. There are plenty of people who read this board who can help

as well.

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Dagors can vary in coverage, seeing a 12" cover 12x20 and 16.5" not

and vise versa, it seems to depend on barrel design perhaps? or

someone else can shed some light on why this varies. A 19" will most

definatly cover 12x20 and beyond. I have a 14" dagor that covers

12x20, a 355 G Claron and a 19" dagor. A 24" artar and up will cover

12x20. Down side is most lenses that cover 12x20 and up are

expensive.

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On the good side I found someone who makes film holders out of cherry

wood and they are very nicely made and I am thrilled with the

quality. And the prices are excellent! Contact Sandy King at

sanking@clemson.edu

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Good luck with your project!

Time has not been served at this point so his dept has not been

paid. He purposefully broke the law for personal gain, and no I

don't think the fine was harsh enough. We are talking about icons of

our American heritage that he put into jeopordy, and more than once.

I would hope we would hold these places closer to our hearts and

soles than a lame $11k. I hope I am wrong that he did this for

personal gain and just truely got caught up in an inspirational

moment, then again you would think some rational thought would come

into play during the time lapse of the event..... So many sides,

opinions and views....

The recent addition of View Camera has a review on the 4x5 Shen Hao.

Personally, I am curiuos about their 8x10, I have heard good things

for the price, but have yet to see anyone in the US actually stock

the 8x10.

What about something like the fixed focus Hobo style camera, no

bellows movement needed.

This is not a comment in pro or con to digital LF work. Just

curious, because to the best of my knowledge the largest digital

sensor back only captures a max of a 6x6cm image. While you certainly

gain the use of view camera movements, the last time I checked 6x6

was medium format. Has this changed?

Hi All,

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I beleive there is a kit available for this conversion, but was curious if anyone has had experience with it, or doing an 8x10 conversion on their Beseler 45.

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Thanks!

JC

There is an interesting article on www.unblinkingeye.com called the

effects of Pyro Stain. While this article is concerned with the

results of pyro VS D-76 for platinum contact printing it might

provide some insight for those interested.

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Cheers

I recently picked up the books mentioned above, The New Platinum

Print, Dick Arentz's Pt book and The Book of Alternative Photographic

Processes. All are excellent resources. I am really enjoying Carl

Weese's book at the moment it is a very interesting and well thought

out read and specific to Pt/Pd work. I recommend all three!

I will reserve my judgement on so called "photography" back packs and

instead offer some advice on what to look for, regardless of the

intended design, that will make your packing more comfortable.Key

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Features to look for in a quality pack:

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1) Available in several sizes to fit different torso lengths

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2) Ridged internal frame, usually a high impact plastic, which also

helps with weight transfer and stops things in your pack from jabbing

you in the back!

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3) A Lumbar support and a well-padded firm hip belt, it should NOT be

a strap of nylon or overly padded as well.

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4) The shoulder straps should be like the hip belt, firm and not

overly padded, and curved and smooth to fit your shoulders.

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5) The pack, and its weight, should rest on your hips and feel like

you are wearing a piece of clothing, COMFORT IS KEY.

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Good Luck,

JC

I find it funny that all those who welcome the demise of silver

photography and embrace the technology of digital with a closed mind

chanting comments relating the silver process to the stone age, when

digital is trying to mimic its very outcome. So when you have copied

it, I say welcome to the same era. Grab a tree stump, pull it up next

to the fire and sharpen your spear because you really havent acheived

anything that hasn't been done already.

In an email a few days ago to Badger, they have every intention of

carrying this line. They had not received their shipment yet.

Perhaps they are revamping their site for this line or something

along that line, drop them an email.

Personally, and I am sure this will draw some fire, I believe there

is no such thing as a "portrait" lens. There is no reason why you

can't use your Ektar, Optar or other lens of choice. The limiting

factor would be your studio setting and belows draw on longer

lenses. Use whichever lens the results of and application are able

to give you what you and your subjects desire. Older lenses would be

Protars, B&L's, artars, dagors..

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A message, an acquaintance of mine passed on, which came from Arnold

Newman during a Q&A session about his portraits was "...I have read

the Bible, the Koran, the Torah, even the Gilgamesh Epos, and nowhere

did it say that one must use a specific lens for portraits..."

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Probably not the answer you were looking for but hope it helps non

the less.

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Good luck,

James

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I

Thank Goodness! That is good news.

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It took me a while to find an affordable lens for my project, the

shutter is right on and besides the air bubbles the glass is mint.

And the bubbles are all on the outer half of the glass more or less.

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Thanks for your input, can't wait to make my first images!!

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JC

Hi, I just picked up a 14 Dagor and have notice about 10-12 tiny air bubbles in the front and rear elements. Is this common and does it have any significant effects on picture quality? I will be using it for 12x20.

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Thanks,

JC

Here is a site you might find helpful. Good Luck and have fun!

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http://www.cyberbeach.net/~dbardell/bellows.html

Hi Matt,

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I am not sure where you are starting from but if you head to Rt. 93

in NH and go North, there is a great loop that you can do. Shortly

after exit 30 you enter Franconia Notch in the White Mountains, there

at many places to stop along the way in the park and you are

surrounded by peaks and steep cliffs. Here is where you will find

the "Old Man" of the mountain. Find a new NH quarter for a visual!

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After Franconia Notch continue north to the Rt. 3 exit, I think exit

36, and follow to Rt 302 east towards Crawford Notch. Another

spectacular valley of high cliffs and foliage. You will pass the

very noticable Mt. Washington Hotel, as well as the cog railway, and

Mt. Washington itself.

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You can continue on Rt 302 down to Conway, for good outlet shopping,

or take a nice shortcut in Bartlett, the Bear Notch road on the

right, which winds its way up to Kancamagus Highway (Rt 112). It

affords some nice views of the valley on the way up to the Kanc and

should give you a nice carpet of fall foliage.

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Once you get up to the Kanc you can turn west (right) towards Lincoln

to complete the loop back to Rt. 93, or turn east towards Conway.

The Kanc is a gorgeous stretch of road in any season and climbs

almost to 3000 feet at one point. There are tons of scenic stop-offs

and a number of camping areas in the National Forest and State Parks

along this route

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Enjoy!

James

Hello All,

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I have decided to go nuts and work towards obtaining a 12x20 or 16x20, ideally I would like the latter. New purchase is just out of the question. I know Korona made a 12x20, and Empire State 18x22, what other older manufactures made these UL format cameras? Aside from eBay, is there a dealer(s) that specialize in this size?

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As always, thanks for the help!

JC

P.S. I am still trying to Identify my 8x10 camera with no luck, if anyone else wants a shot at it, let me know and I can send pics.

Hi All,

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I recently picked up an 8x10 field camera and have no idea of its maker. It is designed from cherry will all solid brass hardware except the springs on the back. The knobs are all brass, knurled and mostly a concave shape with another rounded hex-head as a stopper.

I have no idea how to make the pictures post in this, but I can email them to anyone who can help me ID the camera!

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Thanks,

JC

I am an avid wood worker and have been working with resin impregnated

woods. The resin is forced into the wood under extreme pressure and

fills any checks, grain or imperfections. It also stabilizes the

wood from warping and from damage from the elements, leading to its

common name of "stabilized wood." It is available in almost any wood

and root burls. It is a bit more expensive but if you are a turner

it is nice to play with. I order it from www.craftusa.com they are

geared towards pen makers, but if you speak to them you can find out

the availability of it it larger pieces and they should give you the

name of the manufacturer if they aren't able to help you. There are

a couple of variations of this type of product as well.

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Good Luck!

Errrr. Next time I will read better, I thought you got a 4x5 and

anticipated using a 6x7 back, Ignore the above. Sorry

Perhaps selling it, and then picking up a medium format view camera

since this is your desired film size?

Hello Folks,

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I just acquired an 8x10 field camera and since I only have a 45MX enlarger, contact printing will be the method of choice for print making. After reading many threads here and Michael Smiths articles on Azo w/ Amidol I have decided to give this combination an honest try and use it heavily until I am comfortable with it and have a base of comparison. I will also use the Amidol cocktail he published in the articles and on his website. Here come the questions:

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1) I was going to order the chemicals, probably from Photographers Formulary, there are several types of Amidol based products listed, is there just a straight amidol that is used in mixing Michael Smiths formula?

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2) Light Source, I have read that a 300 watt bulb is used, others say a 60 watt is fine. Does Azo respond better to differet types of light? Can I use my 45MX as the light source, and should I use the cold light head? Or is this going to be a point of experimentation? Suggestions on light source set up and does it really matter?

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Thanks for the help!