millard_thomas1
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Posts posted by millard_thomas1
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I don't know what original bulb looked like. Dr. Fisher?
Marc
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[Note to Martin,
I greatly appeciate your encyclopedic knowledge about subminiature photography. I really do. However, I am obliged to say that for many years now, I have refrained from posting to this site (& a number of others) because I do not want to have to constantly compete with you.
I am getting old and I am getting very tired of waiting for an opportunity to exchange information with others of a like mind (or not).
Wherever I have turned on the internet, you have always been there first, waiting to deluge -- and ultimately to drown -- any nascent dialogue with your own posts -- dialogue that might otherwise have attracted some interest from other potential contributors.
Please permit others to converse without interruption. Please?
Thank you, Marc]
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Nearly everything / more than you want to know - skimmed it didn't catch the cover material but brass screws are often mentioned so most likely not zinc, because "Where zinc comes into contact with another metal, the potential for corrosion through a bimetallic couple exists." Link http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.de/images/a/aa/TheCamera_Craftsman_Leica_M5.pdf
Yes, but at the same web site, one can also find this comment:.
”One important caveat though, only older brass body Ms can be repainted (along with the new M7 or MP, now Leica have gone back to using brass). The zinc bodied Leicas (M4-P after #1600 000, M5 and M6) cannot be done because their zinc alloy top covers would melt(!)."
As I said, I have found several more instances like this.
Marc
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Thank you. This had been bugging me for some time.
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I have found a half-dozen web pages that directly contradict each other. Does anyone feel they have an authoritative answer?
Thanks very much, Marc
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A Minox HP30 projector is more reliable. Strongly suggest HP30 instead of automatics.
This is good to know. What model Minomat did you have originally? i assume the HP24?
Thanks, Marc
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As I recall, the Minox B made a slight winding noise when closing it the last few millimeters of the return stroke. That was the winding noise that I heard when I first bought it in 1970.
That said, you should get it serviced. If Don Goldberg still does it, he was the best. There are others via Google search. The meter is not powered; the bimetal mechanism loses accuracy of be time. You should ask if it can be renewed or otherwise adjusted. The aperture is constant, so the meter adjustment is very basic by reading the scales. You should check accuracy with a good meter or a good camera's meter.
Wow, have fun.
DAG is working on my BL now. (He is very busy and the wait for service therefore is likely to be long.) My last Minox CLA by Don cost $135 USD.
Marc
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I was doing some testing tonight with my minox developing tank to test agitation/flow methods following my color developing experience and the seemingly undeveloped upper shots. I left the lid off and dropped the helix in, raised off the bottom slightly. A piece of white tape was stuck inside the tank in the area where the cassette would sit for visual contrast. I filled the tank with 60cc of water and added 3 drops of food coloring to the fill port. I applied the various methods, running a timer for 3.5 mins (C41 developing time) until I saw the red coloring appear over the white tape.
Thermometer pumping: no color appeared after 3.5 minutes
5cc medicine dropper pump: no color after 3.5 mins
Setting the tank on a vibrating neck massager on high: after 1:09 a steady bleed of color that continued until 3:30
20cc syringe with long, large needle pumping 10cc: after 2nd pump a burst of red, with a fresh burst after each pump.
I then machined 4 1mm deep grooves down each side of the helix and tried again.
20cc pumping 10cc: color burst after 1 pump and steady bursts after
20cc pumping 5cc: same color results as if pumping 10cc without the grooves, but with much less change in tank volume or overflow risk.
I didn't try the thermometer or medicine dropper with the grooves since the syringe was working so well and was much easier. I also did not try the massager again since it would be difficult to maintain developing temperature while using it. In the future I may add more grooves and will use the large syringe for my next development, I'm excited to see the results.
This is fascinating. I know too little about color processing even to ask intelligent questions. But I'm very eager to hear more.
Thank you,
Marc
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Roland, I bought the kit from Kamerastore.com in Finnland. Old new stock, but they had only one. I'm still looking for kits for the 200/4 and 135/3,5.
Hi Roland (et al.),
I only post here every 10 years or so, so hello to you all. i just wanted to tell you people that a seller on the US eBay site -- "dscamera" -- is currently selling a bunch of new, original AI conversion kits. These include a #7 ring as well as AI aperture rings for some 200/4, 135/3.5 and other old Nikkors.
Marc
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Thanks for that.
I
Update: I broke down and took my camera apart again to lube it and check the focus again. The focus ring DOES HAVE A SOLID STOP AT THE 8" MARK. So when reinstalling the focus\film counter button rotate the focus gear at the lens in the direction away from the lens, to the right when viewed from the top. The gear will hit a stop. Then pull out your octopus friend tothelp and drop the button back in place with the proper cam interactions as it goes in.I've now worked up sufficient courage to try this myself. Thanks very much.
Marc
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... In fact, the 20-35mm f2.8 was the first wide zoom Nikon produced; i.e. the entire zoom range is in the wide range, below 50mm. ...
Nikon made about twenty-thousand copies of its Zoom-NIKKOR 28~45mm 1:4.5 from 1975 to 1978. Mine produces excellent images on my D700.
Marc
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ShunCheung: In fact, the 20-35mm f2.8 was the first wide zoom Nikon produced; i.e. the entire zoom range is in the wide range, below 50mm.
About 20,000 copies of the Zoom-NIKKOR 28~45mm 1:4.5 were made from 1975 through 1978. Mine produces excellent images on my D700.
Marc
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Hi Martin,
It's been a while ...
White names the Minicord lens his favorite amongst DEFUNCT cameras. But he goes on to say: "In addition, the two best subminiatures
CURRENTLY available [as of his 1990 publication date], with lenses as high in quality as those on 35mm cameras, are Tessinon, 1960,
Tessina, f/2.8, 25mm and Robot SC, 1987, Xenagon, f/5.0, 30mm." (p.159; William White, Ph.D., Subminiature Photography, Focal Press,
Boston, USA)
So I think your claim that the 'Goerz Helgor' is White's number-one lens is off-base. You're taking his ratings out of context.
Marc
M.S. Hobbies
in Minox/Miniature
Posted
Paul touted the new cassettes quite aggressively whilst my two BL's were on his side of the pond getting CLA's -- which procedures required multiple infusions of money, were generally chaotic, and ultimately unsatisfactory -- (the original "battery-pulls" were mysteriously absent from both cameras by the time I was finally in receipt).
Also as you note, the enthusiasm about the new cassettes seems to have evaporated despite my initial expression of substantial interest.
Marc