jim_bob_mcglashen

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18319403-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="570" /><br> some overexposed spots on the white chest but it's going to have to do<br> i just did levels, contrast and selected the red shirt and increased saturation</p>

<p>Thanks guys for the responses. Still working on it. Didn't even notice that painting in the background before some of your edits. Tim I think you got closest to the red I was after. I think I need to work with masks so I can edit different elements of the picture because now the background is too bright taking focus of the guys in front. Good basic workflow with results Steve, I'm going to have to go with something similar as they are due on friday and not even printed. Don't have time to get fancy.<br> Thanks Again.</p>

<p>Hi there, <br> I have already looked through the forums to get help with this but I'd like to ask what workflow individuals would use to achieve what I'm after.<br> I have a lab developed and scanned image: the contrast and saturation is ridiculous, but I can't get the skin tones or the red t shirt even close to where I'd like it.<br> I scanned with V700 using the Epson software. I set the B&W points either side of the histogram to prevent clipping in a 16 bit 9600dpi TIF file. No other settings were used besides a low auto exposure. I know I could do it better but I could also do it worse.<br> I'm looking at curves and luminosity masks and a bunch of other stuff, as I said I'd like to see what others do.<br> Hope you are keen to share - thanks.</p> <p>Lab scan</p> <p> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18318556-md.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>My Scan<br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18318555-md.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Happy Christmas</p>

<p>Steve , thanks a lot for your help. I've had a breakthrough: by switching the automatic exposure to low in configurations and setting the black and white points (Thanks Les) to stop clipping. The lab technician at uni said I should be able to get something decent out of the V700 since all the photography students use it for their work. I might go back and scan at 48 bit though. Will post results. :)</p>

<p>Les, I was using professional mode 24bit colour and everything else was standard. I don't know anything about setting B&W points. And I agree with you and Steve I don't have enough time to build the skills, but the last images I scanned in the same way turned out excellent (imo)</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18316940-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>the colours are flatter than the scanned tiff file and I'm aware of the light leak, aberrations etc - but this printed exactly how I wanted it. Granted this is a daylight shot and the other is night time, ie - noisy.<br> If I don't submit small pictures (which could be interesting seeing as all I ever see is large black framed images at exhibitions) I will have to bite the bullet and pay (I don't WANT to pay because I'm a broke student)<br> Some of my negatives are 110 Lomo film and there is noway I'm going to get a good result from an even smaller negative, besides having to build a scanning mask for them.</p> <p>Cheers</p>