chuck909

Has anyone used this stuff.  I see it on B&H for a good price.  Am I right that this is Ektachrome cut from 400 foot rolls of 5294 movie film?  And if so, does it have the remjet backing (assuming that 5294 has it in the first place)?

Could it be that they are selling enough to scale up production and lower the price because of volume?  I hope so.  Are other films to follow?  Or maybe an answer to HP5?

Been a few years since that was discontinued (50+)  Interesting to see what you can get.

Old Gold 100?   Isn't that a cigarette?

21 hours ago, mike_sowsun said:

I have both the 533G and 577G. Yes, the 533G uses 6 internal AA batteries, but is also has an external port so you can use the Transistor Pack G. 

Interesting - I did not know that.

Note: the 533G does not use a battery pack.  The batteries are in the handle.

2 hours ago, gwhitegeog said:

Here is the male connector on my CP-E3 pack. Not sure how this will fit the female port on my 577G?

It will not

Mike, do you already have the CP-E2, CP-E3, etc?  If not, what you are contemplating seems like way more trouble than it's worth and somewhat risky.  That, and do you already have the correct plug to the 577G?  If not, that's going to be harder to find that than the pack WITH the plug.  Ok, IF you do get it all hooked up with the other packs, depending on the camera you will be using, be sure to check the trigger voltage.  Otherwise, you could fry your camera.

I don't know where the power switches are for the packs that you mention, but the 577g's power switch is on the pack itself  -  if that makes a difference for you.

The transistor pack takes 6 "C" cells - it is NOT a rechargeable pack.  I use it with rechargeable batteries. but non- rechargeable batteries are fine, too.  You should have no trouble finding one.  Look for a cheap 577G with the pack and cross your fingers that the pack is OK, or as above, see if you can get just the pack.  If the contacts are corroded, they are very easy to clean. 

Well blow me down as Popeye would say, but I see that after what, 8 years, the much anticipated and for the last 7 years given up for dead, Kodak's new Super 8 movie camera is now a reality.  What next, some well-known company coming out with a new 35 mm camera (other than the M6)?  If nothing else, it will be interesting to see if it finds a market.  ( I guess Kodachrome is just as likely 🙂)

Minolta SR1s, 50mm 1.4, Kodak T-Max100

Canon EF, Ektachrome 100, Feb 2023 (frost on my car)

Capping!  It will have to be repaired.  Either that, or frame your shots with that in mind and crop.  I have had the problem with my F1, and have often seen it on Ftbs.  In the past I sent my F1 to Ken Oikawa, but he is now retired.  Seems as though a lot of folks here are recommending a place i North Dakota now.   

This from another thread:  Steve Sweringen is the repair tech that Ken Oikawa is recommending.  His contact info:  Steve Sweringen, Camera Clinic, 100 2nd Avenue NW Mandan, ND 58554, 775-829-2244 .

Sometimes some healthy exercise will bring it back to life.  I have a 20mm FD that had that problem.  Yes, I could see the oil on the blades.  I spent hours off and on trying to get it to stop down.  Nothing at first, but little by little it finally agreed to do as I asked.  I make it a point to exercise all of my lenses.  Beats taking it apart.

Return it

On 2/2/2023 at 6:44 PM, IgorYugo said:

Hey I work in a photolab and we've kinda been having this issue. Just curious if you ever found a solution to it?

Thanks, 

Igor

No, but you can send me a private message if you want to tell me which lad you work at.

As an aside, the bottom cover for the old F1 prism WILL work with the New F1.

Canon EF, Canon FD 20mm f2.8, Kodak Ektachrome,  Dec, 2022

Minolta SR1s, Rokkor 28mm f2.8, Kodak Tri-X, Cropped, Nov 2022

The results are in, and all is well.  This is from the second roll (the first was just a test of the shutter)  I did get a "new" clip-on meter and that's working well, too.  Here's one shot.  .