dennis_ng

Just got a CF22 Multi-shot (not CFV). May I ask for my 203FE

 

1) do I need to modify the 203FE?

2) if I have not modified 203FE, can the two still be used together?

3) In particular, if I do not modify it, I think I can only use C setting and also only C lens for CF22?

4) Or I need to get 203FE fixed then I can use F lens and F setting as well.

5) If I do not have battery in my 203FE (and sort of like a C camera), can it still be used with the back

6) I assume I cannot use the multi-shot using 203fe

7) any experience of such backs on other camera?

 

Thanks for any advice in advance.

may i ask can it use without the drop in filter? got one like this and thinking to get it. any advice much appreciated,

<p>Finally get the 45169 and in fact had 2 baseplate (with the male on the right hand side). Long story but seems quite good. THanks for suggestion.</p>

 

<p>For the moment, I would just use the PM45 ... a bit worry whether it can withstand the wait.<br>

So far the flash is not giving me any picture using my polaroid as I forgot to set my old C lens to X!<br>

Got two hasselblad bracket and I guess one is for 500 and one is for EL. Is there any plate I can use to interchange this instead of spending 200 quids on this? Just wonder.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Seems a bit expensive to get one, at least for one that have the built-in quick release plate and cable ... I may try something else first but if not, I may have to get one.</p>

 

<p>Just got a D Flash 40 shipped in. I have two bracket but both only for my 500C and not fit my FE203. Is there any specific bracket for the combination of FE203 and D Flash 40. <br>

Thanks in advance for any advice.</p>

 

Thanks Steven. I have expanded to 7 67 lens now with many accessories. Not going 645 any time soon but still

thinking.

<p>For the stop down, the key lens letter is "E". Otherwise, even CF needed to be stopped down.</p>

 

Wonder whether you can take a couple more exposure if it is just not enough light?

Interest un the result of the "selling"....

<p>The Martin one is the simplest and the advice the max is 2V is great ... would try it</p>

<p>I have the Pentax 67 II and it is a great camera and the lens are cheap. No T/S though. Very modern. The large focal plan shutter has to be taken of. The leaf lens is not that easy to work with. But overall very good systems. I think the first few post is a bit too over-the-top, btw. </p>

 

Well 7 years later same problem

 

I plug the thermo cord to the wall and the other plug to a device called "aristo solid state contractor model 1200" which has

1 plug for a light source up to 1200w and 2 other cables. One cable to aline(black) also to the wall. The other gray line to

the timer.

 

It seems to work. Hope it is right.

<p>Thanks once again for the reply.</p>

<p>I think whilst there are advantage to CF, CFI (which is nonE) and F, I would wait for my chance to accumulate lens on FE or CFE lens. In fact CFE lens seems to be the best of both world (except gems like 110 FE).</p>

<p> </p>

Suggest to read this:

 

http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-

frameset.html?Hasselblad500.html~mainFrame

 

I found that if you like 35mm way, the big Pentax 67 is better. But

after getting 7 lens on that system, when the chip is down and I can

only carry 1 system for a family trip - I choose hessey. The

possibility of wlf and 45deg prism actually is the deciding factor, as I

found it very hard to use the wlf of the Pentax 67. I found it hard to do macro on the ground level with Pentax. It is doable but not great. Also have to be careful to avoid lost of a few frame due to change of head. Hessey has no issue.

 

I got the old meted hasselbald 45 degree prism but it is useless.

 

Reading prism head page above, I decide one time I will get my

203fe and hence a non-metered 45 degree prism with cut out was

what I got. It is great to go with wlf.

 

For me 90 degree prism is not a good choice. I think it is very difficult

to hand hold hussey like that, I will like my Pentax 67 more. Also,

when we won the lottery, I was told that some digital back cannot fit

a 90 degree prism.

To use focal plan shutter you have to use a speed on the camera

body 1 up to 1/2000 sec.

 

You cannot use C as this will rely on c leaf shutter on the lens. You

cannot use B as it will involve b mode of camera body focal plan

shutter.

 

Stop down meter require e lens.

 

The issue is whether cf lens will auto stop down. If not, it help the

metering but then it affects focusing. (This is a surprise as auto close down is the norm.) C lens will auto shut down,

help focusing but not metering.

 

As thus is pro and cons here, it is not a clean cut case to spend the

money to upgrade from c to cf. Only e lens is important here for lens upgrade if you start from c lens and get a 203fe like me.

 

Right?

<p>Thanks again.</p>

<p>"As mentioned above, if you have closed the aperture to working aperture using the stop down lever, it will still be stopped down after you have taken a picture."</p>

<p>That is the feature difference between C lens vs E lens (and CFI I think) but it will cost you over 1000 quid (at least last time I checked the difference between a used C lens and a E lens) for this stop down metering (with a wider maximum aperture lens). It can wait a bit as medium format depth of field is ok shallow to me. But I will still save for 1 lens the 110 Fe I guess. </p>

<p>I am not sure about what you said about the CF lens. I bet they only stay on the aperture, say, F8 after it shoots but it has to go back to wide open, say F4, after shooting. That means you still have to remember to push the stop down lever! In this case, from the operation point of view, I do not see much difference between the lens that is 500 quid more expensive, as CF vs C lens. Does it remove only the restriction that you can't push the stop down lever at wide open aperture? Even if it does, it does not need for me to pay 500 quid each to replace my 4 C lens (50,100,150and250). If it does not, really not sure it will be on my list. Just use a lens hold would be ok.</p>

<p>To repeat, under C lens, you have to push the lever, stop it down to the aperture and meter. After you take a picture, your aperture goes back to wide open i.e. non-stop down mode but the aperture ring stays it is. You have to remember to push the lever to stop down the aperture for the meter to work right. (One may do some focusing first whilst at the wider aperture but one would forget to push, the major reason to get to E lens but nothing to do with CF lens though.)</p>

<p>In real life, it means that you always have to watch out for the push level. </p>

<p>Some said in this forum to stay on wide open. It is ok as the stop down does not affect you. Just to remember, when once you want to change the aperture, you have to change the aperture ring then push the lever (you can push the stop down lever first, as it cannot stop down on wide open). Otherwise, you have to stop down meter issue again.</p>

<p>But given CF lens have this issue as well (remember to stop down), I would not spend money on it. I was surprised by this because I think my next target seems to be CF lens to gradually replace my C lens. Replacing it with CFI and CFE or FE lens etc. would take a long time. May be work on 8x10 in the mea time and when I am old enough not able to do it, I can save enough to get the E lens.<br>

The timer is a bugger as I used it a lot as well like Karen Nakamura on my Pentax 67, also a camera I got because of her (http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Hasselblad200.html~mainFrame which is the site introduce to me Hasselblad details; only recently I got hold of the Hasselblad Manual by Wildi)<br>

"I use the 2-second mirror-up/self-timer function a lot for macro, low-light, and "flowing water" photographs. It's very nicely thought out."</p>

<p>For setting to 1 sec (or any speed but B or C), this is necessary to make the F shutter work as C is to use leaf shutter and B is really B focal shutter speed. Hence you have do the others. Once F shutter is enabled, you can use the D feature work. Just really have to remember the stop down lever, otherwise you have big trouble.</p>

<p> </p>

The shutter on B would not work as it is really B even on A or D mode.

 

But it seemed you can set it to any speed say 2000 and the focal plan seems

to work using A and D mode. I still like to set it on 1s as you can feel itnpark

there but seems non-essential.

 

Btw the original hassey manual only NOT recommend for cold weather only

but the weidi hassey manual does not talk about it.

 

I really has to remind about the non-stop down in metering but the camera will stop down when taking photos. That is an issue with me with Pentax 67 but here the problem is pain as altering taking a photo it will go back to wide open. Remember this.

 

Still, using C lens which is much cheaper to buy even with CLA that I think I will and can wait a bit before the 110f2. But I really want to know the difference of cf CFi cfe in terms of operation.

 

Can they remain stop down.?

After testing for a bit, my experience so far is

 

- non battery ops is ok

 

- not mention anywhere but after you click, the lens back to wide open (and also when on it, you cannot close down the apertue). This proves to be most inconvenience. Not sure that will be the case for cf or cfe lens. Very inconvenient indeed.

 

- need to get the leaf shutter to open even with auto mirror up

 

 

 

- you can use focal print shutter as long as

 

. C lens on B

 

. Camera shutter ring on 1s

 

. No timer mode on body but mirror lock ok

 

. all A, D, M mode works

 

- C lens work on C mode except

 

. Mode D does not work

 

. Timer on body does not work

<p>Good. If there is nothing wrong, I would use it for a while. I may try to get hold an extra 42219 (with the grid line) as my original intent is when I bought this from them. </p>

<p>Thanks.<br>

Is any implication to have this instead of the 203Fe screen 42219 and 42210? Meter affected or ...<br>

Not sure shall I chase KEH on this or not.</p>

 

<p>Can it use on a Hasselblad like 203FE?</p>

 

<p>Just got a 203fe. I thought I have the 42219 but as there is no grid line, it does not look like it. It is also not 42210 as there is a split image in the middle. Not sure what is that.<br /> It is a acute-matte D as it got two semi-circle on the left.<br /> Just not sure what it is?<br /> A not very good picture here:<br /> /> Any advice would be appreciated.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Feel a bit silly in posting these but this camera seems the hardest I have used in the last 5 years and trust me, I have used a lot. For the back message, it does not say anything. Mine is old one may be but it just say "exp 1".</p>

<p>For the lens, it seems I have a local sellers for 80, 110, 120, 135, 210 and 250 (180 is not f3.2 but the same as my f5.6). I would like to try these first as buying on a net for lens is my cup of teas, may I say.</p>

 

<p>Very good. That is the answers I want to get. Would test my lens (4 of them, all C) on my "new" 203Fe once it arrives.<br>

I guess the 100 F3.5 is just CLA and should be fine. The others if problem I would try CLA first (as they would help even on C mode). Then might be gradually replace them with newer one if it is an issue. But I have to wait a bit as the 203fe is not exactly cheap and non-C lens are also quite a bit expensive these days.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>