george_gray2

<p>I have shipped to KEH as a warranty claim. Thanks for all your suggestions!</p>

I bought from KEH on ebay a few months ago. Thanks for all the help!

<p>Mine has different parts in the critical area, compared to the youtube. Thanks. <br> Rodeo Joe I did push that with no change. Thanks.</p><div></div>

<p>I don't see this structure in the FE, however, I see a pivoting piece that clearly must move out of the way of the rotating lever arm cylinder. But pushing it out of the way doesn't free up the arm cylinder for continued rotation. it's almost as if the long arm that extends from the lever cylinder over toward the middle of the camera is not wanting to be pulled by the rotating arm cylinder even when the pivoting piece is pushed out of the way. Thank you for the info!</p>

<p>The film reached its end during the middle of my moving the film advance lever. Film is out now. Lever has never finished the aborted rotation that started the problem. In its current condition the mirror is up although I can move it down and then see through the viewfinder. When I do that I can actually feel a click when I push the shutter release button, but the shutter blind never moves, although the mirror goes back up.. I have tried loading a new roll, etc. but nothing unsticks the film advance lever. Because it happened because the film ran out I am optimistic that there is a simple solution, but it has certainly escaped me!</p>

<p>Thank you all for the advice. These days a shop service/fix is almost as much as just getting a used body online. I had a lot of fun on the vacation with my new collection of vintage Nikons and all the Nikkors that i could never afford before. So I may just liquidate the 645 system since we don't make the big vacations very often any more. The Pentax 645 is a great system though! Thanks. again.</p>

<p>Rodeo and Les, would canned compressed air be wise as to the possibility of the shutter sticking?</p>

<p>Did test the meter against proven meter in another camera that did well at the same locations. </p>

<p>Sorry, Pentax 645 (manual).</p>

<p>All look about three stops overexposed. Velvia 50. Aperture priority setting.<br> I set up the shots using the viewfinder and all looked normal. Used a shutter release cable on at least some, if not all. After seeing the results I checked the meter and ISO setting and made sure I had not set the bracketing up one, down one by accident. Looked at the lens shutter iris and it is closing in response to aperture changes and looks normal. The developer (TheDarkroom) records indicated they did not push and used E-6.<br> Today I picked it up and the focusing screen was loose and could be seen as out of place through the viewfinder. Any way this might have interfered with all those shots if it was working loose?<br> I had not used the camera for a couple of years and I am wondering if something might be hanging up and holding the iris open too long. I doubt that the shutter release cable is involved. I am hoping that the electronics have not gone haywire. I was using fresh batteries and everything sounded perfectly normal.<br> Anyone have an idea what might be happening?<br> Thanks.<br> George<br> 361-232-7092</p>

<p>I used split screen focusing long ago on a Nikkormat FT3 and a Nikon FM2 and liked it. My eyesight was perfect then. Now I am farsighted and considering going retrograde and buying a Nikkormat EL or a Nikon FE. I think they will have the split screen focus. If so, does the use of that feature require vision correction? I don't think so, but I would enjoy confirmation. Otherwise I will probably need to buy a correction eyepiece. I am brand new to Photo.net so please forgive me if this question has been asked and answered a million times. Thanks.</p>