brian_whalen

I own one and I really like it. Only 500ml of solution compared to 55 oz on the Yankee tank. And I do not have uneven development like with the Yankee. I will say that it seems to leak solution, but I've never had a light leak of any sort. Used it about 6-8 times with no problems. Also, I will note that the negatives have small streaks from the "film holder", but they are invisible when scanned. They did worry me at first, but as I said, they are not visible when scanning or printing...the top portion never seems to sit flush with the bottom portion, but it isn't loose. I think it is just a result of the rubber o-ring not having a catch on the bottom portion of the tank to "lock". When I agitate, I put one hand in between the two openings to ensure it stays together. I bought it at a discount when they had "extras" from the Kickstarter run, but I would say it's worth the full asking price. I thought about going with the Jobos, but they are kind of expensive, even used...

Er- I forgot I asked a similar question posted below (poor memory these days). Please disregard!

Just wondering if the color cast people complain about with these filters affects film similarly to digital sensors? I am interested, in particular, with Porta 160. Images will be scanned and adjusted in Photoshop. I appreciate any input.

I know this is old but for those who might consider these cameras in the future...90mm will not fit without a recessed board. The literature on these cameras state that the shortest lens is a 3.5", but I have a 90mm Raptar and it needs some extra room(my recessed board is 25mm deep). The literature is available at CameraEccentric. I've never seen an original recessed board for these - just user made. As Mr. Hendrickson pointed out, the diameter of the recess itself can't be too wide - about 3.75" max as the internal housing attaching the bellows to the front standard is a tad narrower than the front standard hole itself (at least mine is - AND it has rounded corners, which didn't help either). But mine was refinished by the previous owner and the bellows are definitely not original, so maybe the alignment of the bellows frame was not squares when glued... For all the flac the American cameras get for being wobbly and such, I rather like mine. I removed the extension bed(the one that is attached to the camera) so it is pretty compact now, less than 6" deep and I don't get jabbed in the throat when trying to focus. Perfect for my 90mm and 127mm lenses. The focusing rail also drops a bit of unneeded weight if you fall within a 90-135mm focal length range.

I have seen "debates" online, but everything seems to be either; A: theoretical or B: applying to digital sensors...so I'll ask some rather basic questions. 1: are the RESIN hitech ND crap? I am shooting film only and almost exclusively b&w. Have users found either softness or any type of negative effects? 2: I am going to start shooting color and was thinking of using some nd filters for bringing down the skies. Do the resin filters typically cast the magenta cast over film similar to digital sensors? As filter manufacturers aren't really "giving away" their products, I don't really feel like dropping money and then be disappointed. I appreciate any information

I am confused - can you NOT advance the film with the crank built in to the back? I had always fancied the hasselblad graflok back by shen hao and thought one could use it with a film back (and the ground glass adapter made for the flexbody...). I've never used a hasselblad, so I apologize for any ignorance. Glad I know now, however...

Is there a valid reason Fujinon LF lenses are significantly cheaper than say Nikkor/Schneider/Rodenstock?? Is it just the name or is there a quality issue I am missing? Have I been mislead by some posts stating Fujinon lenses are top quality? I only ask as I am interested in wide angle lenses and they always seem to be considerably more affordable than Schneider and Rodenstock (Nikkor 75 & 65 seem to usually be reasonably priced - the 90mm f8 and larger seem to fetch a pretty penny, however) and I don't want to purchase a lens to later be regretful of my decision. I appreciate any insight.

I honestly can't thank you enough. 'would have never known to think of a self-timer or to look for that "switch". Which was, of course, the issue. Thanks again. - Brian

Hello all - I recently acquired an om-4 (non Ti) and I shot a roll and everything was fine. Batteries died (so I thought) so I bought new ones. The battery check works fine (steady beep) - but when I make an exposure, the shutter appears to stay open and then the battery light blinks and beeps for about 5 seconds(always starts at one pitch and then finished with a higher pitch) and then closes the shutter...what did I do? I am used to using large format (so no electronics) and a mamiya TLR; also no electronics - so I apologize for something that is probably simple.