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ted_ylauan

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Posts posted by ted_ylauan

  1. I use a Nikon SC-11 pc cord that connects from the side of the SB-28 to the Hasselblad lens. Also, take the flash out of standby mode because if the flash goes into standby, the Hasselblad will not "wake up" the flash and it will not trigger when you take a shot with the Hasselblad. Also, if you use some sort of bracket if its metal make sure it doesn't short out any of the pins on the bottom of the flash hot shoe. I use a bracket with that has a channel in the flash holder so it will not short out the pins.
  2. You can but turn-off standby mode, otherwise when the flash goes into standby mode it won't fire when you take a pic with the Hasselblad. I use a Nikon SC-11 Sync cord. Also, if you mount the flash on some sort of bracket if you use a shoe metal shoe make sure that it won't make contact the center pins. I use a flash shoe on my Stroboframe bracket that has a channel down the middle so the SB-80DX hot shoe pins don't short out. You can use the flash in manual and Auto using the external auto flash sensor on the SB-80 but obviously not TTL.
  3. I use a Hasselblad "PolaPlus" back #30200, it's a 100 series back. The main difference between it and its predecessor is that it has a dark slide retainer position, you can just pull out the dark slide to a detent and take your shot without having to completely remove the dark slide.
  4. Don't know about the Pentax but regarding the Minolta Spot Meter M, they are discontinued, Minolta no longer services them, there were two versions of this meter, one used a 6-volt battery and one used a 1.5-volt AA battery. If you were to get one I would get the 1.5-volt AA battery version, it was the latest production of this meter. Better yet I would look for Spot Meter F which replaced the Spot Meter M, uses a 1.5-volt AA battery and can read flash.
  5. It's a warming filter that comes in different grades, 81A, 81B, 81C, etc. It warms up images taken under cool lighting. It is amber color. I would use one to warm up images/skin tones say in the shade or with a flash that too cool.

     

    It's not a UV filter

  6. Those are Hasselblad decamired filters. The CB are cooling decamired blue filters and the CR are warming decamired amber/red filters.

     

    recommeded exposure increases:

     

    CB 6 = 1 stop increase in exposure

    CR 6 = .5 stop increase in exposure

    CB 1.5 = 0 increase in exposure

  7. <Thanks for your answers. I can't seem to have any luck finding the QR66 in stock anywhere. Also any clues as to what the part number may be for the Metz attachment that would go with such a setup? Thanks again>

     

    For a QR66, if you want to use the quick-release feature of the Metz 45 use a "Metz Mount 2" attachment catalog #300-418, in the picture of my Metz 45 setup I use a handle mount bracket catalog # 300-HAN because the quick-release attachement places the flash higher than I want it to be.

  8. I use the Hasselblad "PolaPlus" Polaroid back, it's the latest version. It has a dark slide retention system/captive dark slide so the dark slide does not need to be pulled out completely (unless you want to) you just pull it out the the detent and leave it there. This Polariod back doesn't need a dark slide holder on the back to hold the dark slide.
  9. I use a Quantum Q-Flash T2 in TTL mode with my 503cw, the parabolic reflector goes well with the square format and it's removable for a nice bare-bulb mode. I also have a Metz 45 CL-4 but I hardly use it with the 503cw because I would get light fall off at certain distances that I don't get with a parabolic reflector.

     

    My 503cw/flash setups can be seen at:

     

    http://ourplaceusa.home.att.net/hassey.htm

     

    I would say to at least get the D40 if you don't want the Quantum Q-Flash.

  10. I use a 503cw the TTL system will sync at all speeds that is the beauty of leaf shutters. Great for fill-flash outdoors. I use a Quantum Q-Flash in TTL with the 503cw usually at speeds from 30-500 no problem. I would recommend a TTL capable flash such as the Hasselblad D-40 or the Quantum Q-Flash the round parabolic reflector covers well with the square format, also you can remove the reflector for a nice bare-bulb flash mode.
  11. If you feel you need/want the TTL flash metering (for TTL compatible portable/on camera flashes only) or add-on film winder capability then get the 503cw.

     

    A prism finder meter is not needed to operate the 503cw's TTL flash metering unless you want to use it to figure ambient light exposure with TTL fill-flash but any meter can do that.

     

    With studio flash you don't need TTL for that, so a 501cm is fine, with studio flash you might want to get yourself a good incident flash meter.

  12. I use a Metz 45CL-4 (Hasselblad Pro Flash was based on it) and a Quantum Q-flash with my Hasselblad. I like the Q-flash better the parabolic reflector works nicely with the sqaure format, the reflector is also removable for bare-bulb use, very nice. The Metz 45 has light fall off in situations where the Q-Flash didn't like at shorter distances. I use both flashes on a bracket that places them over the lens to help prevent side shadows. You can see my flash setups at the URL below.

     

     

    http://ourplaceusa.home.att.net/hassey.htm

  13. I use a Metz 45CL-4 (Hasselblad Pro Flash was based on it) and a Quantum Q-flash with my Hasselblad, I like the Q-flash better the parabolic reflector works nicely with the sqaure format, the reflector is also removable for bare-bulb use, very nice. The Metz 45 has light fall off in situation where the Q-Flash didn't like at shorter distances. I use both flashes on a bracket that places them over the lens to help prevent side shadows. You can see my flash setups at the URL below.

     

    http://ourplaceusa.home.att.net/hassey.htm

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