silverhalide1949

I use Ilford Delta 400 developed in XTOL 1:1 ei 400 (Kodak recomends 500) Developed for 20% less than recomended time (I'm using a condenser enlarger so if you are using a diffusion enlarger you may want to use recomended time and ei to start). Surprisingly sharp and fine grain with no highlight blocking. I am planning on trying Clayton F76+ & will post my results.

 

Until the last Silver Halide Crystal is extinct!

 

Robert

Delta 400 is my main film. I have gotten the same marks.You need to fix for a longer time (I use NH 5 for at least 5 min) and everything will be ok. RO

 

Until the last Silver Halide Crystal is Extinct!

I just sucessfully developed a 36 exp roll of Delta 400 in XTOL

mixed 76/23/04. I mix the 5L and store in 250ml brown glass bottles

with saran wrap under the cap. (I use filtered tap water to mix

dev.) I must have missed the bottle on the shelf and decided to try

it on a roll of film. I placed a section of unexposed film into the

diluted (1:1) developer before I loaded the reel. I figured if the

XTOL was exhausted I would use a bottle from the fresh batch. At any

rate, the unexposed film was black after I finished loading the

reels. I then proceeded to develop the roll with the nearly 13 month

old XTOL. The resulting negatives are as good as those developed in

fresh XTOL. I think this is proof that at the very least my chemical

storage method is working. I don't recommend this as a standard

practice but it is nice to know it is possible.

 

Until the last Silver Halide Crystal is extinct. RO

It looks like major "Bromide Drag". It is very uniform, however, perhaps it is a combination of reverse rewind & improper ajitation.

I've been using XTOL for 7 years with no failure. Stored in 8oz brown glass bottles with seran wrap under cap. My latest 5L batch was mixed in July 04. I developed 8 pieces of 4x5 FP4 last weekend & all film came out perfectly. Never had the stuff turn yellow.

 

Until the last Silver Halide Crystal is extinct, RO

I use Delta 400 in XTOL 1:1 (I never had a problem with this developer). As mentioned above good combination of tonality, sharpness & fine grain. Just watch out for over exposure, it is very easy to blow out the highlights.

Another vote for a double reel stainless steel tank. I have been using the same Kinderman SS tanks & reels (I have both Kindermen and Hewes reels) for over 20 years with absolutely no problem. If you are going to develop more than 2 reels of 35 mm you will eventually need a 4 reel tank as well. I also agree with the above post that you will eventually have more than 2 reels to develop at a time.Good luck! RO

I've been using a Kinderman 16oz tank & 35mm reels for years. The very slight movement during inversion agitation does not effect my results. I always use 2 reels and fill to overflow even when developing 1 roll.

 

"Until the last SilverHalide Crystal is Extinct" Robert O

Welcome back. There is almost nothing on earth as good as working in a darkroom. It has stareing at a monitor beat hands down.

 

"Until the Last SilverHalide Crystal is Extinct." Robert O

I use 100F water to mix my XTOL. I always seem to get slight participate as well. I've been using XTOL for the last 5 yrs with no problems. Just store in small glass bottles & it will last at least 6 - 9 months.

I do the same thing as mentioned above. Diluted Developer (In my case XTOL 1:1) in graduate & keep the fixer in its' bottle. I have all my chemicals set up in order of use in my sink to avoid error. Things happen. Just consider it a learning experience.

I just took similar photos of old wooden sailing ships on Chesapeake Bay. I used Ilford Delta 400 with a yellow green filter developed in Kodak XTOL 1:1. I use a condenser enlarger so I reduce recommended development times by 30%. I printed the negatives onto Ilford Multigrade Warmtone Fiber & developed the prints with LPD 1:4. I believe I got the effect you are looking for.

I used D76 1:1 & was satisfied with the results.

You are very welcome Phillip. I remember those Microdol X bottles & I believe you are correct. You will find Specialty Bottle a very good company to do business with. I place my orders on-line & receive the bottles well packed with a week of placing my order.

Specialty Bottle has Amber Boston Round 8 oz bottles with very good heavy plastic caps for $.78 each. I've been using these for 3 years with my XTOL. I use a square of "Saran Wrap" between the cap & bottle as per Ctein's recommendation in "Photo Tecniques". My XTOL lasts in excess of 8 months stored this way. By the way I also suggest using the smaller bottle. It is very convienient in practice, I use a shelf designed as a spice rack to hold the bottles. This it the website: http://www.specialtybottle.com/

Kodak recommends 100ml of XTOL for each 36 exp roll of 35mm film, for 1+3 dilution (which Kodak doesn't recommend any longer)you would need a tank that holds 400ml. I abide by this recomendation & have never had a problem. Good luck.

I have a similar reel that I used for my Minolta 16 film in the '60s. It was very difficult to load.

New supplier of Edwal is BKA try www.bkaphoto.com.

I second the recomendation for Graflex Graphic Photography. I have the 1948 edition that my dad gave me (He bought it new). You will find it facinating and you will be surprised at how much information is still usable. You will especially enjoy the advertisements at the back of the book.

I have just started to use DDX after using XTOL for several years. In general I prefer the results I get with XTOL when using 35mm Delta 400 & 4X5 FP4 over the results I have gotten with DDX and these films/formats. After I finish the present bottle of DDX, I am going back to XTOL. This is purely subjective. You need to do your own tests.

Not all SLR's have beam splitters. Neither my Nikon F2 Photomic nor my Nikon FM2n use beam splitters for exposure. You are correct for some manual focus cameras and I believe all auto focus cameras. I would assume that each individual has read their instruction manual. I nevertheless should have mentioned the difference in my original post.

I use a Yellow/Green no. 11 filter for most landscapes. It will lightens foliage & darken sky. If you want to darken sky (& reduce reflections) without changing tonal relationships a polarizing screen is helpful.

In the last 5 years I have been trying out the following iso 400 35mm films: Tri-X (New) in D76 1:1; T-Max 400 in T-Max Dev & Delta 400 in XTOL 1:1.

I started with T-max-400 very fine grain but to my eyes more "mushy" than fine, very sharp, cropped 11X14 prints are no problem. After about 40 rolls or so I tried 400 Delta in Xtol 1:1. This is a relly nice combination. Excellent tonality,fine sharp looking grain, very sharp overall. Cropped 11X14 prints have more noticable grain but to my eyes have a more pleasant look than T-Max prints. These comments go for the improved version called Delta 400 as well. Frankly the only perceptable difference to me is the blurb "New" on the package.

I have exposed & printed well over 100 rolls of both versions and Delta 400 is presently my standard film. I have also tried New Tri-X (about 20 rolls), it is very nice as well, very good for portraits. I believe, however, that Delta 400 is (for me) the best film overall. This is a very personal & subjective opinion. You really need to try things out for yourself and arrive at your own conclusions.

It is too bad management is taking it's incompetence out on the workers. However, I use Ilford B&W film & Fuji Color film. I use Heico, Ethol, Ilford & Edwal chemicals in my darkroom. I print on Ilford, Forte & Agfa B&W Paper. The only Kodak products I use are Signal Shortstop & XTOL (I just however bought a quart of Ildord DDX concentrate). I really won't miss Kodak. I do not plan on switching to digital. I have recently bought a 4x5 setup to go along with my 35mm & 120 cameras.

Try Delta 400 ei 320 in xtol 1:1, at ei 400 in DDX.

or

"New" Tri-X ei 400 in D-76 1:1 classic look.