matt_t_butler

.... Rumours, rumours, rumours. " Secondly, is a 100mp EOS R in the pipeline? It’s highly possible. We’ve been told that Canon scrapped the development of an EOS 5DS/R follow-up and that their next high megapixel camera will be for the EOS R system. I don’t think we’ll see such a camera until 2020, as I believe there need to be some more native RF lenses announced to handle landscape and studio shooters." LINK: IBIS and 100mp coming to an EOS R camera? [CR2]

To add to JDMvW's extensive research on Spiratone's ColorFlow System - the instructions for Colorflow II : The original Colorflow series of filters were fabricated as a compound unit consisting of a polariser and a dichroic polarising element. Colorflow II separated the components into a stand alone polariser and individual dichroic filters. I purchased several through mail order - shipped to Sydney, Australia - in the late 70s.

...... the resulting 'filter factors' were also affected by the process of the compositing software in Final Cut Pro X. Each respective channel was laid up in the timeline and blended via the effects pane. Photoshop would probably give a different outcome .....?

This was the result when using the Wratten camera separation set #25 Red, #58 Green, # 47 Blue on a digital camera and using the 47 Blue (the least transmission) as a base exposure and adjusting the Red and Green to match when shooting a mid grey target to around 90. This was only an approximate guide to a base balanced exposure - each scene was adjusted during photography using the RGB histogram in the camera - different scenes and time of day gave differing exposure values for each channel. (The Green channel also contains most of the luminosity information.)

Cell phone apps are fairly sophisticated these days - more functions than a standard meter and at a reasonable price point. LINK: ‎Cine Meter II ‎

The Memory Meter was a handheld laminated cardboard fold out - the inventor suggested to carry it in your camera bag if you forgot your meter or the batteries failed. He encouraged users to 'Benefit by your experience', along with suggestions on how to improve your photographic memory. I guess it was aimed at beginner amateurs and photographers who could not afford the luxury of a light meter - it was the early 80s and there wasn't an app for that.

Ha! The Harris Memory Meter/ exposure calculator had the possibility of : 9 f stops X 20 ISO settings X 10 shutter speed combinations = about 1,800 variations as well the 19 key lighting scenarios. ..... and my memory is unfortunately not as good as it used to be!

I guess so, but it was an experiment to see if one could reproduce Prokudin's technique with modern gear, without recourse to PS with which I am not familiar and instead use the traditional compositing effects available in the video edit program FCP X to emulated his process. What I also discovered was the recommended filter factors suggested for exposure compensation for each filter when used with 35mm stills film cameras did not apply. Different digital camera brands required different exposures when using the prime RGB filters - perhaps a result of the different sensors and de-matrixing algorithms used by each camera manufacturer. .... Interesting.

On the subject of metering there was an arcane device that never needed cell replacement or new batteries : The 'Harris Memory Meter III'. Developed by the namesake of the 'Harris Shutter Effect', Robert S. Harris after he left Kodak, this simple but accurate device assisted many amateur photographers in the early 80s. Exposures were calculated by rotating the inner dial to match the subject conditions. (This was a more complex version of the simple exposure diagram sheet that was enclosed in each box of still's film.)

Hi [uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER] The shot your refer to is a composite frame grab from a 4K time lapse short edited with a minimum of post production processing. Rather than mess about with the process to 'colourise desaturated shots and recombine as layers, or extract the separate RGB channels from any three full colour exposures' I simply exposed for balanced respective RGB triple layers that 'blended' into a colour sequence without any need to colour grade in a video edit timeline. I was following the technique of Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky an early 20th century Russian photographer. Link : Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky - Wikipedia LINK to short: Each camera manufacturer uses different densities of RGB dyes in the micro filters over the pixel sites in a Bayer array with twice as many Green in ratio to the Red and Blue. The respective dematrixing/demosaicing algorithms of particular camera brands give them their 'look'.

In the 'old' days of cine photography a down and dirty technique was to take a spot meter reading on the centre of the palm of your hand placed in the position of interest - as the back of your hand could change due to sun tan. DOP's had pre-calculated the 'zone' of their flesh tone and adjusted exposure compensation accordingly. A couple of DOP's I worked with were so experienced they could call the exposure in half stops by eye.

Canon cameras have been known to operate at -30 below (no wind chill) with dependable power packs - regular batteries expend more rapidly the colder it gets. Avoid using burst mode as this can jam your shutter, the LCD is likely to freeze up after a while. The sealable plastic bag is used after shooting and you have removed the memory card(s) BEFORE you go inside to a warm environment. You place the cold camera inside the plastic bag, remove as much 'air' as possible and seal it airtight. Not only does this prevent condensation issues for your lenses it also prevents uneven temperature changes that might fracture the electronic connections on the cameras micro circuit boards. Leave the camera in the sealed bag for at least several hours before removal.

The saga continues ..... B&H in NYC now list the Novoflex FD to EOS-R mount for around US$185 LINK: NovoflexAdapter for Canon FD Lenses to Canon EOS-R Cameras Adorama list a cheaper Kipon version @ US$71.00 - not sure if it focuses to infinity??? LINK: https://www.adorama.com/kalaeosrca.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1fn89LfI3wIVg4qzCh14uAQsEAQYAyABEgL4IfD_BwE

Replying to Ed's quote ... In NYC tripods are allowed on most public footpaths as long as they do not impede pedestrian traffic. (Ha! -but tried walking on a busy 5th Ave.?) So I try not to get in the way and use these rigs at busy locations. As I tend to shoot a lot of timelapse and multi-exposure image sequences I need to have a fixed camera. Times Square is an official no go for setting up a tripod - but depending on the attitude of the cops, they will sometimes let you finish or tell you to cease and desist. There are numerous spots: scaffolding, street sign posts, guard rails etc. to rig a camera. I use a a ball head on a lighting clamp - sometimes attached to a large G-clamp if needed. Brooklyn Bridge Times Square Subway station Wall St (always congested in the day)

Kent Ave, Williamsburg NYC. (Composite R+B shots - Frame grab)

Erratum ..... oops,on original post ER lens prefix should be RF!

Tri Colour Reflections 41st Street NYC

Fairly conventional manual focusing on the 19 inch mark, I employed the x10 magnification in Live view and manual focusing for both lenses. I'm still getting used to the R camera with its focusing bar distance indicator in the VF seeing there is no visible focusing indication on the barrel of the ER 35mm/1.8. The new ER lens does display snappier contrast and sharper focus on close inspection with pixel peeping but given the FD 35mm is a nearly 40 year old legacy lens (1979) it holds it own for regular macro applications. LINK: New FD35mm f/2 - Canon Camera Museum A bit off topic ...I do a fair amount of time lapse work and I prefer the legacy lenses with their fixed apertures that eliminate aperture flicker common with newer lenses that open and close the aperture mechanism on every exposed frame. This also creates unnecessary wear because of aperture cycles on each lens. Timelapsers employ the 'Lens Twist' trick on the newer Canon lenses where one slightly rotates the seated lens to disconnect the electronic feedback. If Canon did a firmware upgrade where a user could keep the selected aperture open during shooting an extended image sequence - now timelapsers would love that!

Here are the images ...... FD to EOS adapted lenses without the optical lens/element in the adapter become limited macro lenses. Two sets here. One at f2.8 and the other at f22. Not that one would ever shoot wide open for macro but an academic exercise for examination. (Focus point is the 19 inch mark on blue ruler.) FD 35mm/2 @ f2.8 1/40 sec ISO 640 on control ring adapter for EOS R camera. ER 35mm/1.8 MACRO @ f2.8 1/40 sec ISO 640 FD 35mm/2 @ f22 1".6s sec. ISO 640 on control ring adapter for EOS R camera ER 35mm/1.8 MACRO @ f22 1".6 sec. ISO 640 Lens comparison

[ATTACH=full]1275318[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1275308[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1275309[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1275314[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1275315[/ATTACH] FD to EOS adapted lenses without the optical lens/element in the adapter become limited macro lenses. Two sets here. One at f2.8 and the other at f22. Not that one would ever shoot wide open for macro but an academic exercise for examination. The focus point was the 19" mark on the ruler. FD 35mm/2 @ f2.8 1/40 sec ISO 640 on control ring adapter for EOS R camera. [ATTACH=full]1275308[/ATTACH] ER 35mm/1.8 MACRO @ f2.8 1/40 sec ISO 640 [ATTACH=full]1275309[/ATTACH] FD 35mm/2 @ f22 1".6s sec. ISO 640 on control ring adapter for EOS R camera [ATTACH=full]1275314[/ATTACH] ER 35mm/1.8 MACRO @ f22 1".6 sec. ISO 640 [ATTACH=full]1275315[/ATTACH]

Just the beginning ...... LINK: Adapter Ring For Canon FD Mount To Canon EOS R RF Cameras Body Aperture Control~ | eBay ...... @ US$17.34 inc. shipping!

Messing about with tricolour filters. Dumbo photographers and tourists. Canon 5D2, FD 50mm/f1.8, (Effective 63mm/f2.4 with FD to EOS 1.25x adapter) @ f11, 1/30sec, ISO 320, triple exposures using Wratten #25 Red; #58 Green; #47 Blue. Composite frame grab from FCP X.

Taking a liberty here but I was out shooting yesterday ..... FD 85mm/f1.8 + FD to EOS adapter

This thread discusses both methods - direct mechanical focus for the majority of legacy lenses used on regular dSLRs and the electronic focus in the recent Canon EOS R camera system. According to Canon websites the new RF lenses in manual mode have no direct focus linkage like traditional lenses but use positional feed back data to emulate a range of adjustable 'manual' focus functions.