steve_pfost

This is all so great, really a nice start to get me back in touch with film. I was recently pulled into the office at the paper as an editor after shooting for some time and I'm feeling like I have a photography deficiency. (HaHa!) I decided what better to get back into then to hone my skills back with film. So I'm hoping that it just just be my shitty handling of exposure. Dummy.

 

Some questions I will raise, I sometimes use a 3 reel paterson tank, sometimes a 2 reel. From what I've been researching I don't really have to change developing times due to the tank size do I? I see that Kodak recommends if you have a large tank 1/2 gallon - 3 1/2 you have to but with the tanks I have I always just doubled the amount of developer and processed box time. As a side note I will be experimenting with possibly exposing for 320, I never heard that 400 wasn't true speed of the film.

 

Anyway, I made new fixer just to, well, freshen it up, and fixed a strip with no change as some had expected.

 

I can't say again how much I appreciate the help, keep the convo going with any more tips or any helpful reference links!

Okay, Maybe this could work as a better negative view. The first image (missing the frame on the bottom) is Tri-x developed for the time stated on the dev chart 9.75 (which would be 9 mins 45 secs correct?) at 68 degrees 1:1 dilution. The temp stays pretty constant on on the nose. I agitate as I was taught (so it may not be 100% correct) which is turning the tank 3 times over every 30 seconds. (that's the best way I could describe it in words I guess) I get that developing isn't a set in stone process and items have to be tweaked. I just don't want to continue to develop to get these results.

 

Second frame is same developing dilution, temp, developed as the 400 iso just pushed to what the dev chart says, 13.25 (I believe, going off memory)

 

BOTH SCANS have zero adjustments in epson program, just a raw scan.

 

Once I finish developing I put in a ilfo stop agitate for a minute

 

Then fix. Fixing is my only chemical that I may not have a set temperature, most likely under 68'

 

I will be making new fixer tonight and trying to refix a strip sometime tomorrow. Is there a point where a film can not be fixed anymore? I'm trying to remember how old my fixer is. It's probably nearing two years old and fixed about maybe 75 rolls of film (35, 120, 4x5) give or take

 

 

Let me start off this post by thanking everyone for the help so far! These are some frames shot tri-x 400, exposed for 400. The film still needed some adjustments in epson scan, I adjusted the levels. Then tweaked them in light room. When scanning the neg's without any adjustment they still look flat and muddy. Now, is this something to expect from scanning, should I have to be adjusting the negatives in epson? For Instance the last three of the horse. Unadjusted, levels adjusted in epson, and negative. Also, in regards to pushing 1600, it's the first time I've ever experimented with that, really. So maybe I'm just not used to the outcome quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Okay, so I took photos of my negatives with my cell phone and crappy light box. Hope maybe this could help. Sorry I wasn't clear, yes I'm shooting Tri-x 400. My bag is only two years old, maybe slightly newer so I would hope that isn't the case. I shot this roll on my Leica M6. The meter seems to be working just fine and is pretty accurate. I am going to the store today to grab a battery for my seconic handheld to double check.

 

 

 

 

Several possibilities:

Stale film

Badly stored film

Fogged during processing

Insufficiently fixed

Grossly underexposed

 

Fresh film?

Fresh dev + fix?

Proper fixing time?

Handled in total darkness?

 

If the answer is no to any of the above, then that's probably the problem.

So try re-fixing in fresh fixer. Followed by re-washing of course.

 

Also 'pushing' = underexposing and overdeveloping. Overdeveloping = increased grain and contrast.

 

There's nothing you can do in developing to truly increase film speed more than about 0.5 EV above the box speed.

 

Okay just to answer your questions

 

Fresh Developer, Fresh film, but fixer is quite old so that may be the issue.

Proper fixing time I believe (again I'm a bit rusty, I fixed for about 8 - 10 mins.

Handled in darkness of my changing bag which I've had no issue with in the past.

As always there are some that may have been a stop underexposed but the entire roll is the same muddyness

 

It may be my fixer. So let me ask you, since I've never had to do this before. The film is cut how should I re-fix with new fixer? Place film in a tray with the fixer? and allow it to sit for a bit agitating the tray?

Too bad we can't see what the negatives look like.

How could I show you? Full scan of the negative?

My negatives seem to be consistent with this muddyness which has me a bit disheartened and a bit frustrated.

So I'm shooting film again, which I haven't done in quite some time. My negatives seem to be a bit muddy? Now, I'm assuming this may be an exposure problem, if it is, that's fine. I just want to rule out any issues with my developing. This roll was developed in D-76 1+1 pushed for 1600 at 13. 25 mins, fixed for about 8 mins or so. Fresh developer, fixer is old but seems to fix the negatives just fine.

 

The attached files show a raw un toned image / then toned

 

and two toned images in epson and lightroom.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 

Well, that's the problem. I think it messed up the internal gears. I was able to re bend the shutter lever inside and it works

on all speeds except B and T. Which they now are just really finicky and pretty much don't work. I'm really upset because

they used to work just fine. So if anyone has any ideas on how to fix that would be great!

<p>Hi, I have an original Kodak 35, Kodak, No. 1 Kodamatic lens. It was working fine with film in it yesterday. Today I used a cablerelease and something jammed my shuuter. Anyone know how to fix this? I'm Pissed.</p>