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NLsafari

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Everything posted by NLsafari

  1. <p>I recently went to this site. http://www.photozone.de/active/survey/querylens.jsp.<br> It has a list of data for many different lenses including the color balance. Unfortunately this list does not include my Canon FD 300mm f/2.8 FLUORITE. I have been told that this is a "COLD" looking lens and that I should use a sky light filter to warm it up. I use a sky light drop in filter on this lens along with a UV filter on the front. I have four pictures in my gallery taken with this lens using Kodak Portra 400 film and my trusty Canon F-1n. Can someone tell from looking at the pictures if this lens looks cold, warm or in between.<br> Raphael Vazquez</p><div></div>
  2. <p> If the shutter release is pressed repeatedly there are instances when the shutter blades go all the way back to their neutral position at full aperture open. Even the amount that the blades hangup varies. To me this sounds like what was explained previously , that something is sticking. If something were broken it would not work period.<br> When I get this lens serviced I will share the info and we will all know.<br> Raphael</p> <div></div>
  3. <p> I will give feed back after the lens has been serviced.<br> Thanks, Raphael</p>
  4. <p>Thanks for the explanation it sounds perfectly logical. Do you have the contact info for the gentlemen you recommended for the repair?</p> <p>Thanks, Raphael</p>
  5. <p>Hi,<br> I've had my Canon FD 300 F/2.8 FLUORITE with the chrome ring since about 1997. I used this lens quite a lot at my sons track meets and other occasions. Then I stopped doing photography and stored it with desecant in a sealed tube in a safe in the attic. About six years ago I took it out shot some photos using film. They were bad , had quite a bit of flare. When I checked the lens I noticed the shutter blades were sticking. That is they did not return to their normal position but instead remained partly closed after depressing the shutter release. On the whole the actual speed of the shutter wasn't bad, not too different from normal. It was just that the shutter blades didn't return all the way to the normal resting position. This of coarse made the lens intermittantly slower than F/2.8 and caused the flare. I took it to a place in Manhatton (I work in New York) and they did an overhaul. It worked OK but since I don't do much photography these days I stored it the same way I always do. About two years ago I noticed a tiny bit of sticking of the shutter blades and didn't think it was worth over-hauling (suppose it is damaged during the repair) for such a small problem. Today I took the FLUORITE out and noticed that the problem is significantly worse. My wife says that this is caused by the variation in temperature in the attic where I keep the lens. It does get cold in the winter 40 degrees and hot in the summer about 95-100. However, I keep all my other lenses in the same place , including another 300mm FLUORITE and they have never had this problem. I would like to know from the FORUM membership what they think is causing the problem and since I have now decided to repair this unit to recommend someone that I can trust with this beautiful lens and will fix it right. <br> Raphael</p>
  6. Artist: Only the Best :-)); ImageDescription: Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH ; Make: AgfaPhoto GmbH; Model: d-lab.2/3; Software: RB98k or later from AgfaPhoto GmbH d-lab.2/3 ;
  7. NLsafari

    14A_0040

    Artist: Only the Best :-)); ImageDescription: Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH ; Make: AgfaPhoto GmbH; Model: d-lab.2/3; Software: RB98k or later from AgfaPhoto GmbH d-lab.2/3 ;
  8. NLsafari

    10A_0036

    Artist: Only the Best :-)); ImageDescription: Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH ; Make: AgfaPhoto GmbH; Model: d-lab.2/3; Software: RB98k or later from AgfaPhoto GmbH d-lab.2/3 ;
  9. NLsafari

    _31_0142

    Artist: Only the Best :-)); ImageDescription: Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH ; Make: AgfaPhoto GmbH; Model: d-lab.2/3; Software: RB98k or later from AgfaPhoto GmbH d-lab.2/3 ;
  10. <p>The late great Steven Serrota of Classic Camera told me the Canon FD 300mm F/2.8 Fluorite S.S.C. with the chrome ring rendered pictures a little on the cold side. He suggested using a sky light filter to warm things up. I now have a UV filter in the front and a sky light filter as the drop in filter. Has anyone done the same thing with their 300 lens. I think the 300 is cold if I compare it with my Canon FD 50mm F/1.4 but I don't know how it compares with other long lenses. I am curious as to what others that know more than me think.</p>
  11. <p>Thanks for the referral. I will reach out to Steve Swerington about the lens.</p>
  12. <p>Hi,<br> Thanks for your recommendation for servicing the Canon FD 300mm f/2.8 FLUORITE S.S.C..<br> I will follow it up. Regarding the composition of the front element Steven Serrota who lived near Philadelphia<br> and died a few years ago serviced this lens ( he did a wonderful job ) after a purchased it on ebay maybe 7 years ago.<br> He was the one that told me that the front element was fluorite. To be honest it looks like glass to me.<br> But I always keep a UV filter on it just in case.</p>
  13. <p>I have a Canon 300mm f/2.8 FLUORITE S.S.C. with the chrome ring and the green line on the sun shade. The optics are perfect. But it that needs the shutter cleaned and checked ( intermittently sticks slightly ) and the dust cleaned from one of the elements in the interior. I am having a great deal of difficulty finding someone qualified and with experience on this lens that is willing to take on the job. I am very protective of this lens. The front element of this lens is FLUORITE and very soft. You can't put an off the shelf UV filter on it because Canon put odd ball threads in the lens. So I had S.K. Grimes in R.I make me a special adapter that allowed me to put a nice UV filter on it. I'm not going to hand over this lens to just anybody. They have to be qualified and also care as much as I do about this lens. Any suggestions?</p>
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