derek_reid
-
Posts
21 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by derek_reid
-
I intend on building my own 4x5 camera very soon. The body will mostly be made of hardwood. The research I've done states that the ground glass has to be directly on the film plane to achieve proper focusing. The issue is, I'm not sure of exactly how precise I have to be while building the camera. I'm wondering if anyone can perhaps provide building tips and/or suggestions in order for me to tackle this issue while designing and building my camera. Many Thanks, Derek.
-
©
-
©
-
©
-
©
-
©
-
©
-
©
-
-
©
-
<p>Charles Monday,</p> <p>From what I know, the Nikon F5 didn't use an infrared sensor, as this would negate the use of infrared film, however I will still try it.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Derek</p>
-
<p>It's me again,</p> <p>It seems as though I have <strong>really</strong> bad luck with my Nikon Pro film bodies.</p> <p> I bought an F5 back in March and when I bought it, the camera had a small defect with one of the command dials that I worked around and is completely unelated to what recently happened as far as I know. Today I discovered that after I fire off 1 or 2 shots, the third shot will fire, the mirror will return, film will wind, however one of the motors will lag. From what I deducted, this seems to be the same motor in the R1 spool disengage. The frequency seems random, with the camera sometimes firing off 5 or 6 shots fine, then the camera starts malfunctioning. I put fresh batteries in the camera and it was no help. I put a fresh roll of film in the camera; the first two shots were fine, and then the motor lagged, and I got an "err" message and the small red LED beside the R2 switch lit up; I subsequently rewound the film. </p> <p>Anyway, if anyone has advice they can offer, that would be greatly appreciated, and because my financialm status is quite low, with no source of income, I have few options at this point. </p> <p>For those of you who replied to my F3 Issue post, the issue semed to pass with about a month's disuse. The camera works perfectly fine now and I have had no problems since, an I thank everyone who gave their advive.</p> <p>Once again, Thanks,</p> <p>Derek</p>
-
Photographer in "Walter Mitty" uses Nikon F3/T
derek_reid replied to marc_rochkind's topic in Casual Photo Conversations
<p>I have to admit, being a Nikon F3 fan for most of my life made that scene in Afghanistan all the more awesome for me. While I agree with Marc Rochkind about the F3P, The F3/T came with the HP finder by default, which had weather sealing on the finder in the form of small rubber bumpers.</p> <p>It was a great film.</p> <p>Derek Reid</p> -
<p>Frank Miles,</p> <p>What might be the name of the repair shop that you mentioned? I have a feeling it would cost me less in shipping.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Derek Reid</p>
-
<p>Matthew Currie,</p> <p>Even after removing the motor drive, the shutter still sticks. Another wierd thing I discovered was that the shutter will work with a little bit of stick when I hold the camera upside down, even after the camera has completely jammed up.<br> I regret to inform you that I'm not much of a camera repairman myself, though i do appreciate the links to the repair manuals and I have checked the mirror assembly page. Any time I have ever tried to repair a piece of photographic equipment myself, it has ended badly. (I ended up revoving many crucial springs from my Pentax S1A.)<br> I will try Vermont Camera Works, and I like their shipping and estimate policy, though I'm a bit concerned about mailing it there as I live in Canada, and customs might be a problem, plus the cost of the repair/CLA.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Derek Reid</p>
-
<p>Recently, my Nikon F3 started having issues. Whenever I trip the shutter, there is a faint click sound, lasting for a few milleseconds at most, before the shutter fires as normal. After a few clicks the mirror slows down, eventually stopping a part way up. The mirror needs a bit of a nudge to get going, or a good slap to the bottom. I know for a fact that it's not the shutter due to the fact that when I manually lock the mirror up, the shutter works 100% fine, even after firing it a hundred or so times. Even after changing the batteries in both the body and my MD-4 motor drive, the problem doesn't go away. Even the mechanical backup release is not exempt. The only way to get the camera back to stage 1 of the problem is to leave it for 8 or so hours.<br /> If any of you would, I would greatly appreciate it if you could share if you have had this problem, or any possible solutions. I will only consider professional repair as a <em>last resort solution</em>, as i do not, and cannot have a source of income. The only thing I'm considering at this point is buying another body.</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p>Derek Reid</p>
