adam_mclarsson

Yes I am insecure I guess, when you've had that experience.

Write speed is fine thank you. Good day! Doubt I will be posting back here again.

Open Photoshop>> Open>> Select your file>> Scoll to format and change this to RAW. Now you can open the file in ACR.

Just be aware of JPEG limitations. All your sliders will revert to zero each time they are reopened and no RAW edit file will be created.

Why are you writing us? If you simply put a card in the camera and turned it on, you would have seen that it works with one card. Go out and shoot some pictures. It's not going to blow up.

DCStep,

I have returned a 5DIV before (In a previous thread I posted about the error).

Once again the card I used in the camera was an SD without CF, brand new, formatted and ready to go. The error specified by the camera was not listed on Canon's website nor was it recognised by Canon themselves. Many users on this forum suggested it may be a card error even though the card worked well when formatted to other cameras. Regardless I took that on board.

It resulted in a refund as I had no time to obtain an exchange. I purchased a new one upon return from a work trip and now I am playing about with it. All is well.

This is the first time I am using a dual card model. Previous models i have used are 5D Mark II, 7D, 2x 6D and now a 5DIV. So I hope you can imagine why I posed the question due to my first experience with a 5DIV and never having used a dual card slot model prior.

A further point I might add is that the SD card is listed as slot '#2' in the camera's menu. Coupled with my initial experience this prompted me to inquire as to whether a setup of the card was in order. None of this is mentioned in the download manual as previously specified.

Thank you everyone else for helping me clear things up. Your explanations are always welcome and indeed highly valued.

You can use only one slot, if that is your reference.

 

I would suggest that you purchase 32 GB CF card when you can and put it in the empty slot and set you camera to the SD as primary and to automatically switch to the CF card if the SD gets full.

 

Ed

Ok so I cannot use the SD card on its own? I need to use the CF card also? I would prefer to just reinsert SD cards.

I have CF cards but I just dont like them and they are much more expensive. If that's rhe case the idea of putting two slots in is redundant without choice between the two.

The manual doesn't clear this up.

Hi all,

I have finally got my Canon 5D Mark IV. I have never used two card slots. If I am using one slot - is there anything I need to do to set it up? Or is it simply insert one card and leave the other empty and I'm away? I will be using the SD card slot.

I may use the Compact flash slot in future but I'm not interested at present.

Thanks!

The 35mm lenses that I use on Canon DSLR and SLR Cameras are the EF 35 F/2 and the EF 35 F/1.4L.

Fantastic! Do you find a difference between the two in terms of quality, build etc? I can imagine the build is much better. But saying that I upgraded my 24-70mm to the mark 2 model and the build quality decreased.

The L series looks much bigger - is it a problem when trying to be invisible amongst the crowd?

The procedure is the same with a Mac or PC. Connect the drive(s) to the same computer and use one of several accepted methods for copying files. You can select, drag-and-drop, or copy and past. The key command for copy is ctl-C or command-C, and for paste, ctl-V or command-V. A Move function is similar, except the source files are automatically erased. This is risky should the operation encounter an error. It's better to copy then delete manually (unless you wish to keep the original files).

 

Moving files within the same disk is different. The address of the data object is updated. No actual data is transferred nor deleted.

 

Copying data is safe, and subject to internal verification. In general, the only problems occur if the connection or power is disrupted. It is better to use a card reader than a connection to the camera. A card reader is usually much faster, and the O/S can see all the directories at once. The camera can only recognize the current directory, even other directories are on the card. For example, a new directory is created in the camera when the old directory is filled (the image number rolls over).

I've copied RAW files with no problem using all the methods I've used for non-photo files: drag-and-drop within Finder (mac) or Explorer (PC) from computer to external, external to external, computer to computer over wi-fi, external to external over wi-fi, card to computer, card to external, and even from computer to card in one convoluted case. I've never had a problem with corrupted files, but if you're concerned, I think there are some copy verification apps out there that you could use to check the copy integrity. If I'm down-loading from the camera, I use a card reader (I download daily, then when the card is >1/2 full I download the entire card to a backup hard-drive and format the card, usually about once a week).

I found this link on Canon's website so I think this clears it up: http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/image_download/transfering_image_files.do

The procedure is the same with a Mac or PC. Connect the drive(s) to the same computer and use one of several accepted methods for copying files. You can select, drag-and-drop, or copy and past. The key command for copy is ctl-C or command-C, and for paste, ctl-V or command-V. A Move function is similar, except the source files are automatically erased. This is risky should the operation encounter an error. It's better to copy then delete manually (unless you wish to keep the original files).

 

 

 

Moving files within the same disk is different. The address of the data object is updated. No actual data is transferred nor deleted.

 

Copying data is safe, and subject to internal verification. In general, the only problems occur if the connection or power is disrupted. It is better to use a card reader than a connection to the camera. A card reader is usually much faster, and the O/S can see all the directories at once. The camera can only recognize the current directory, even other directories are on the card. For example, a new directory is created in the camera when the old directory is filled (the image number rolls over).

So it is safe to drag and drop files from a memory card then reuse in the camera?

The procedure is the same with a Mac or PC. Connect the drive(s) to the same computer and use one of several accepted methods for copying files. You can select, drag-and-drop, or copy and past. The key command for copy is ctl-C or command-C, and for paste, ctl-V or command-V. A Move function is similar, except the source files are automatically erased. This is risky should the operation encounter an error. It's better to copy then delete manually (unless you wish to keep the original files).

 

Hi Ed,

 

Thank you for your reply.

 

In the case of downloading from a card to computer it is safe to reuse the card in the camera after formatting?

 

Moving files within the same disk is different. The address of the data object is updated. No actual data is transferred nor deleted.

 

Copying data is safe, and subject to internal verification. In general, the only problems occur if the connection or power is disrupted. It is better to use a card reader than a connection to the camera. A card reader is usually much faster, and the O/S can see all the directories at once. The camera can only recognize the current directory, even other directories are on the card. For example, a new directory is created in the camera when the old directory is filled (the image number rolls over).

By no means an expert, but when transferring or copying files between media, I err on the side of caution. My PC has a built-in card reader,

so I take the SD card from the camera, set write-protect (in case of corruption) then use Explorer to copy the files to the hard drive. If I want

the files on another hard drive (say as backup), I then use Explorer to copy the files from the first hard drive to the second hard drive.

So far, I have had no problems - I offer this as a potential solution. The issue which concerns me about using the transfer cable is that

if the power in the camera dies (say battery runs down), then there is a possibility that files on the hard drive may be corrupted, and what

is worse, the files on the SD card may also become corrupted.

HTH

Both methods, cable or card reader, are safe ways to transfer files from one place to another, or copy and paste. Just make sure to use the "copy" or "copy to" option, and not the "move to" option. Sometimes when using the "move to" option, you can mistakenly move your files to the wrong place, and may have trouble finding them again. And don't erase your camera's memory card until you're sure that your files are where you wanted them.

Thanks Tony/Nail,

FYI - I am using a mac to do this.

So it is not safe to copy a set of files from one hard drive to another?

Your feel it is perfectly safe to drag and drop RAW files from the memory card in question to the hard drive?

I back these up onto 3 hard drives. 2 portable, one stationary.

Tony, when you say explorer? Is that a program?

More often than not 35.

FL = 35mm is my regular choice for that type of work. The rationale being that I generally like to work within the Perspective which is created by a Subject Distance of between (approximately) ten to twenty feet (3 to 6 metres).

 

A 35mm Lens allows for an array of cropping options later to achieve a suitable framing for the Final Image whilst keeping that Perspective.

 

On the other hand I find that a 50 is too tight and too restrictive at that Subject Distance range and a shots pulled with a 24 often require too3 much cropping.

 

Additionally a small point probably not often used now: the 35's compared to the 50's (Canon Lens) have a better range of Distance information on the Lens's Focus Turret, which is easier for manual pre-focus technique (for example when Hip or Hail Mary/Doorstop shooting).

 

 

***

 

 

 

Maybe, but an EF 24 to 70 F/2.8 L MkII USM doesn't have much distortion and has a range of Focal Lengths.

 

Using a 5DMkIII, will you need the extra Lens Speed of a Prime Lens to arrest a stop and a bit of Shutter Speed and/or ISO?

 

DoF differences between F/2.8 and F/1.4~F/2 would be marginal for much of typical Street Photography & Journalism work.

 

WW

If you were previously using a zoom, you might want to go back through exif data for photos you've shot and liked the look of.

Easy to do in Lightroom or other photo database programs.

 

I'd say, at least for me, 35 on a full frame camera. For what it's worth, I used to use a 28mm on a 'crop frame' camera exclusively. That's about a 40 on a full frame, 5mm wider would have been great. (That lens needs a repair, so I'm using a zoom)

How much environmental context do you like?

 

Personally, for my urban photography, I like a lot of context. And, I prefer being closer to people rather than further away. 35mm is ideal for me, letting me capture both candids and engaged street portraits with a decent amount of context. Wider is nice sometimes, as well. 50mm is too much like a telephoto, putting me too far away from subjects.

 

 

Shot with a 35mm:

 

http://citysnaps.net/2015%20Photos/powell%20scene.jpg

I like the 35mm also. Which brand do you prefer on a Canon?

Unless your 50 is a macro/micro lens, it is not optimized to focus at close ranges of 1-1.5 ft. There are plenty of other lenses which will do the job much better with less distortion and better resolution. Most people use a 50 for general purpose, whether it is on a full or cropped sensor...people and scenic shots.

Gotcha! Thanks SCL! Yes I prefer the 50mm over other primes. Appreciate your reply, thanks!

Which 50mm? Also remember the 50 is focusing at f1.8 or f1.4, and for both of those the middle to edge resolution at full open aperture is not great, making the focus not so easy to hit accurately. Also any AF point off center on the 6D is not as accurate as the center cross-type one. If you use the 6D center point you should do better.

Hi Robin,

I have all three Canon lenses. The one in question is the 50mm 1.2 - I travel a lot and got it because it can take a bashing! Thanks for your answer, makes sense! Really appreciate it.

Hi all,

I have 6 days worth of RAW files to transfer from one hard drive to another. In the past I have been told the only safe way to transfer RAW files is by downloading the photos direct via the camera's transfer cable.

I would prefer to copy and paste them from one hard drive to another. Is that safe?

Hard drive I am transferring from is a Samsung 2TB USB powered hard drive

Its potential destination drive is a Lacie 4TB AC powered hard drive.

PS: I do have card readers though I have been told this is not safe to download photos.

I am sure many people on this forum have a 50mm - it is a versatile lens though I do question what many use it for.

I have tried mine at 1-1.5ft with mixed results and have compared it to my 24-70mm lens at 50mm on the far left AF point (on a 6D). The 50mm shows some slight inaccuracies whereas the 24-70mm at 50mm is spot on.

What are your thoughts? I would have assumed the focus would be the same? Or is there a technicality I am missing.

I can't help you with local stores in the UK as I am here in the US. Letting folks try a lens on a camera or a camera on a lens is pretty common at local stores around me. It actually is one of the nice parts of buying local and supporting the local shops. I have had them lower the price a bit on demo unit, not a big deal as long as I get a full warranty and it was not a rental lens. If it was a rental lens then I consider it used and needs a proper price reduction. The local shops count on people coming back for future sales so they usually treat folks fairly. The ones that don't go out of business. I also buy used lenses on Craigslist. If a lens has a couple dings or scratches it is not a big deal. As long as the autofocus and image stabilization are ok, you can get a great lens for a great price. I just make sure the meeting is in a public place with people around, like a busy coffee shop. I have gotten a few items on Amazon and have once purchased a refurbed camera directly from Canon. I have bought 4 cameras from my local shop including the new 5D Mark IV. The folks at the local shop know me by name and I know them by name. Kind of like Cheers, but with Camera equipment and not beer.

 

Cheers, Mark

haha! I love your outlook Mark - Thank you for the reply. I will check them out. Thanks

Hi all,

In the past I have always bought camera equipment online until last year when I purchased a new body. I decided I would pick one up from a store. However, I was amazed that staff in store allowed people to try new lenses and camera bodies on old lenses/bodies owned by the customer. They are then stored once again. I spoke to Jessops and they assure me that stock from their warehouse is new, though admitted the aforementioned was the case in store. The same is the case for WEX and Calumet.

I am keen to support local stores, but if this practice is a common one it is alarming. Considering, if someone has dropped their camera/lens and is not bothered about it - they may be trying lenses with a warped mount scratching or damaging the body/lens.

What are your thoughts?

I am also intrigued to know which company you feel packs their lenses the best? And which company you find to be the most reliable.

I am UK based.

Let us know how they/you resolve the issue. Passing along info makes us all more knowledgeable.

Best of luck,

Mark

Hi Keefer. Although the symptoms were not consistent with that of the card most members continued to state that it must be the card. However the card error was not consistent with such symptoms. So I am going to put it down to a bad camera and buy another.

I learned alot abot memory cards though! The one I used in the 5D4 was new, from a reputable retailer and formatted to the camera.

I would assume they are if they are Canon. If you do not get an answer here, try the official Canon Community Forum Website LINK.

Thanks Keefer, getting a lot of luck on that forum. Well played!

Have you looked at the Canon support website to see what that error code means? Canon Support Error Codes Website

 

In general neither newer or older is better. Newer just means newer. Usually newer models have more features or are more up-to-date with the needs of the current user. If a model has been out for a little while (6 months or more) then most of the problems have probably been addressed.

I would definitely try the firmware updates and just watch out for the error again. You should wait a bit before returning the camera and going backwards in models. Canon will eventually stop supporting the Mark III if they haven't already so it pays to have the newer model in terms of support.

Nothing on the website. The camera did not display an error code. Just 'Err Crd something'

Thanks - they are stopping production of it but they still service the 5D so I would have thought 5D3 would be ok. I only use it for stills - I have never used a DSLR for video. I may try it in the future but my work does not call for it.

The only time I go any error, was with a third party lens that the camera did not have information for, but the camera was trying to do peripheral illumination or some such lens correction to the jpeg image and I was in high speed servo rapid firing the shutter. I powered the camera off, I may have pulled the battery and reinserted, turned the camera back on and turned off any lens correcting, or simply turn off jpegs recording. Never saw the problem again. I don't recall the error. I think there are some firmware updates already out for the camera too.

Hi Keefer, I was using the Canon 24-70mm 2.8LII lens and then switched to the Canon 50mm 1.4 (low light). It was on the 50mm I encountered this error. Being of the same make I don't think the lens was the issue. I always power down before detaching/attaching a lens.