oli_sones

When you wind on the next frame, the slotted spindle should turn with the advance lever from start to finish. As orsetto suggested, if it stops turning before you have fully wound on the next frame (or does not turn at the start) then something is not right. I'd suggest taking the film out and going through the film advance sequence a few times with the back open to see what is happening.

 

The FM3a is a mechanical camera, it can operate without batteries - batteries are required for the light meter and for aperture priority (shutter dial set to "A") where the shutter is electronically timed. Does the problem go away if you set the shutter speed dial to "A" or if you manually set the shutter speed?

 

What happens when you advance the film while engaging the multiple exposure lever? This is the little black tab top-right under the film advance lever. In normal operation, if you pull back on the tab while using the advance lever, it will reset the shutter without advancing the film. Since the film should not move at all, you have isolated the function of the advance lever to just resetting the shutter, it might give you a clue as to what is happening.

 

Maybe experimenting with the multiple exposure lever will unblock whatever is causing the problem. I had cases with my FE2 (very similar to the FM3a) when the multiple exposure tab was partially engaged by accident, resulting in overlapping frames. It never blocked the shutter from firing but it does suggest that this is a potential source of problems.

 

Let us know how you go.

Thanks for this. I can confirm that when I wind the advance lever on, the spindle fully turns. It spins right until the end of the lever travel, then stops. When engaging the multiple exposure level, the shutter resets and nothing else moves. But again, I need to quarter turn counter-clockwise the screw on the baseplate to fully cock the camera and release the shutter release as before.

It makes no difference on A or a different shutter speed, so I can't imagine it electronic in nature?

Out of curiosity, do you have an MD-12, and if so have you tried attaching it?

 

I'm curious if it will complete the cycle.

Unfortunately I don't have a MD-12 to hand to test this.

Hi all,

I imagine this will require a CLA, but wanted to pop the issue I’m having with my FM3a on here to get some thoughts.

When I advanced the film, the shutter release seems blocked and will not depress. I rewound and removed the film, but this did not solve it.

When I use the advance lever, it goes all the way and back, but the shutter release is still stuck. The only way to make it work is to move the slotted screw/spindle on the base plate counter clock-wise a quarter turn. This allows the shutter release to be fired.

It’s almost as if the advance lever isn’t fully arming the shutter release. Is this a spring issue?

Any thoughts greatly received!

I'm going to be heading to Hong Kong for a few days on my way to Australia next month. I will not be seeking out protests to photograph, but as things are moving quickly, there maybe a chance I find myself in an area where they are taking place. Should this happen, I am debating whether to document what happens. Being a photographer I feel it's something you should do when presented with the opportunity, but realise this is a very tricky situation.

I wonder if any members have any advice or experiences when coming across something like a protest and what the protocols are? I have shot some marches in London but these are of course peaceful and largely uneventful.

I'll be taking my Hasselblad 501CM, so am thinking wider photos will be best, but may also take a digital body for my larger trip to Australia.

Any thoughts greatly received!

Hard to tell from your pic. Could be a dried-out bug that got stuck in there ten years ago, or it might be a fungus bloom. Either way, it isn't coming out: Hasselblad lenses are notorious for the inside surface of their front and rear elements being sealed and inaccessible for cleaning (how fungus and insects manage to get in there, I'll never understand). If you do find a repair tech willing to take a shot at opening the rear lens cell, expect to pay at least $150 for the cleaning: while its open, you may as well have the shutter overhauled as well.

 

It looks like you have a few other spots on the outside glass surface that could be the "water stain" fungus. This should come off with a soft lens cloth moistened with hydrogen peroxide. Try this on the "bug" too: if you're really lucky, its actually outside the lens and might come off with peroxide. But if its stuck on the inside, you'll need to decide how you want to proceed. As far as effect on lens performance, don't worry about it. A tiny transparent imperfection like that, in this location, has no impact on anything: I have a Hassy 100mm Planar with a pockmark ding in the glass in that location, and you'd never know from the great pics it makes.

 

Which way to handle this "bug" depends on two factors: how much you paid for the camera package, and how much of a gambler you are. If the total price was very reasonable or below current market value ($800 or less with WLF and A12), and everything is otherwise in nice functional condition, you might want to consider just living with it. OTOH, if you paid the going rate for a super-perfect 500cm kit (more than $900), perhaps you should request a return/refund based on this lens defect. It can be a difficult decision, I know: in USA right now, nice 500cm packages are scarce- if you return this one it may be awhile until you score another.

 

Despite all the internet horror stories about fungus, in practical terms it doesn't always have to mean "OMG, the sky is falling, I must sell all my lenses now and burn the house down". One very tiny fungus bloom in one lens is disappointing, but more often than you'd think it will just sit there inert for years (and might even be dead already). Even better, it might really be a dead insect, in which case it is totally harmless.

 

I have this exact type of fungal bloom behind the front element edge of my 150mm Sonnar, and it hasn't changed in the six years I've owned the lens. I basically got the 150mm for free, because it was infested with fungus like you wouldn't believe (from garage storage) and had a slow shutter. After my local camera tech cleaned it up, the glass and coating were crystal clear except for the one tiny bloom he couldn't get to behind the front element. I decided to live with it and just monitor the lens closely for any changes: so far, nothing for years now. I forget its there unless I look for it. Environment plays a role: I live in NYC, which is only very humid for a couple months in summer. If you live in a year-round hot humid climate known to promote fungal growth (Florida, Louisiana, etc), keeping a lens with potential fungus may be riskier.

Thanks Orsetto. I only paid £599 ($760) for the kit including an A12 and WLF, which I felt was quite a steal. I have as a matter of course contacted the seller as this wasn't mentioned on the description (in fact they said it was clear of fungus and marks). I shan't expect much back, but better to raise it now. The body seems to operate well although I might take it for a CLA as I plan to shoot with it a fair bit.

I'm in London, so not too humid for most of the year.

Pretty sure that's fungus . . . Pretty sure it's on the inside. No harm in giving the front and rear a good cleaning. Spots like this are more of a problem on the rear element than it would be on the front but this doesn't look substantive.

This appears to be on the rear although I can't tell whether it's on the inside of the element or the outside.

Hi all,

I've just received a Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 as part of the Hasselblad 500cm kit. Annoyingly there appears to be a very small bug on the rear element of the lens. I say bug, as it could be fungus, but I can just make out some legs and a wing...!

Has anyone had experience of cleaning the rear element of the 80mm or should I send it away to get serviced? I see there are some tutorials online for removing the rear element, but keen to hear any successes/failures.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

My sister is getting married this summer and is having a smallish reception (80 people). Although I’m not going to be taking photos in any official capacity (I’d like to let a pro take care of the important stuff!), I’ve said that as a gift I would supply guests with cameras and film and curate a book with the resulting photos.

The obvious path to take would be disposable cameras - something like the Ilford HP5+ models. However, I’ve read these can be unreliable and I’d like things to be easy for guests to pick up and shoot with. That leads me to think buying up some old point and shoot cameras would be a good option, but I wonder if anyone has any views on what might be a good model to choose?

My mind automatically goes to something like an Olympus Mji II/Stylus Epic, but to get 10 plus of these will be pricey, so I need something that is readily available on EBay or other outlets.

Would love your thoughts on this and any similar experiences you all might have had!

Thanks in advance!

Just a pedantic correction: you loose 1 stop ;-)

While I don't use a Leica M system (so can't comment on the lenses in particular), in general, whether that extra stop of light matters or not depends a lot of what kind of photos you make. I tend to shoot a reasonable amount in low to extremely low light, and then every stop counts, for example. For daylight work with normal speed film, it's not all that important. For shots with little depth of field, the difference between f/2 and f/2.8 isn't huge, but at closer ranges certainly noticeable.

Thanks re the stop! I tend to shot a variety of things including street scenes - therefore a decent extra stop is useful.

Personally, I believe I'd probably opt for a Voigtlander Nokton Classic SC (similar renditions to the v1 Summicron and it's a full stop faster) and an external finder. You get used to an external finder - just be patient. OTOH, the goggled Summicron is a classic lens and would be tempting nostalgia (an M3 and goggled Summicron were what I learned photography on). But after examining the price differential I think I'd get over it..

That's a good tip. Would you go for a SBLOO viewfinder or a Voigtlander to match the lens make? As you say I would need to get used to it...

If you dispense with the goggles and just use a 35mm VF in the accessory shoe, then any Leica 35mm M-mount lens will work, even any of the non-Leica 35's made by Voigtlander or Zeiss in M Mount, but I can definitely understand if one prefers to stick with Leica lenses. That's part of the draw of the system.

Yes, I currently use a Zeiss 50mm on the M3 so was keen to get some Leica glass as well.

Thanks for all your thoughts.

I was keen on the goggles as I felt it might make things easier in terms of speed - having the magnified framelines rather than switching between viewfinder and focus, although I guess it just take some getting used to.

If that was the case, should I be looking at a higher version of a 35 that would suit the M3?

Hi all,

I’m keen to add a 35mm lens to my M3 collection as I have been shooting a fair amount of 35mm on other bodies.

I’ve been looking at the Summicron 35mm f/2 V1 vs the Summaron f/2.8, both with goggles.

The Summicron demands a higher price on most that I’ve seen but I wonder whether the extra £££ is worth the outlay vs the cheaper Summaron. You’re losing .8 of a stop but I wonder what this translates to in real world usage?

Anyone have any experiences of these lenses and can offer some insight?

Thanks in advance.

If you say so. I have never shot film and digital together. I did start with film using Canon A1 in early 80s...yikes, its over 35 years ago. I still have it somewhere stored in the original box with a battery removed. Couple of lenses too.

 

I have to say that since going digital in early 2000s, never touched film again. The last film trip was a trip to Australia and New Zealand in 2000. I take far more images now than I ever did using film.

 

Can't imaging fumbling rolls of film every 36 shots and worrying about environmental control and bulk of multiple rolls. But I don't have any vinyl records either, much less a turntable to play them on. Have some CDs collecting dust somewhere since its all now on HDD or up in the cloud....

Thanks for your thoughts. I still indeed shoot digital for any paid work (such as event/PR work). However, I love film for when I'm shooting for fun and for personal stuff. Different strokes for different folks I guess, but when not 'on the clock' I get far more pleasure from film than digital these days. Wasn't always the way but for trips away the enjoyment out weighs the hassle of travelling with film.

Realise this is an old thread, but the same thing is happening to my 645n - mirror locked up and when you switch it off, it stays on.

Did you find a solution to this?

I've been on both sides of the fence on this one. What I've evolved to is thinking zooms are the best option for travel. The less I carry, the more fun I have. The less I have to fiddle with changing lenses etc., the fewer shots I miss. If the F100 will function with the Nikon 24-120mm f4 VR, that's the lens I'd pick up on ebay, or the Sigma 24-105mm f4. Add a 35mm f1.8G (or the new Tamron VC version) and you should be covered. I would bring lots of film--might have some difficulty finding it there. I'd also bring a small back up camera on a trip like that.

 

Kent in SD

Thanks Kent. I'm wondering whether limited myself to an f/4 lens as it might not give me the enough in terms of aperture when using, say, 400 iso film. That said it's probably the best of both worlds. There is the older 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6D but I can't imagine half a stop is going to make much difference at that stage?

I'm heading to India in July and want to take my trusty F100 with me. I haven't done much travelling with the F100 other than some city breaks but want to make sure I take advantage of all the (hopefully) great opportunities India will give me shot-wise.

I've read a lot of different opinions about what people might take with them on such a trip, but I can't decide between taking three primes I have (24mm f/2.8f, 50mm f/1.8, 85m f/1.8 - all AFD) or investing in a decent wide tele to cover everything. We won't be travelling about a huge amount, but lugging lenses and kit in 38c heat doesn't fill me with joy....

Does anyone have any sage advice based on experiences with film kit in such a situation?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all,

I'm travelling to Wuhan, China in a couple of weeks and wondered if anyone had a) been to Wuhan and b) found anywhere that sells

film? As I'll be going through two sets of X-rays (Two flights from London), I'd rather not risk fogging too much film.

I realise it's a bit off the beaten track compared to usual Chinese destinations, but thought it was worth an ask!

Thanks in advance!

<p>Hi all,<br>

I have a very good condition Canon MC with it's flash unit (MC-S) which I'm looking to sell, but can't find much information on what they tend to go for. Does anyone have any ideas? It's one of the first auto-focus P&S, so I imagine a nice find for a collector. <br>

Thanks in advance!<br>

Oli</p>

That 105 AFS 1.4 looks lovely. Just slightly out of my price range...!

I've picked up an 85mm f/1.8 D which is lovely. Now just looking for a wide angle - perhaps a 28 or 35?