mark_gorden

<p>Ah, okay. I thought the manual indicated you could use continuous on in flash mode to, for example, measure multiple flashes. I tried it again just using the press and release to power on the meter. Using the wireless trigger lets me be right there after firing the flash to zero the needle before it shuts off. This time it gave me a reading of f/6.3 (1/3 stop under 5.6). That's much better but still a few stops underexposed so maybe the meter is off, at last for flash. I also noticed that when I slid the dome off to the side, there's a light gray disk, about the size, transparency and concavity of a contact lens, that came loose from the opening to the selenium cell so I'll probably just return it.</p> <p>Thanks,<br> Mark</p>

<p>Okay, that's exactly what I've done and that was the reading I got, so something isn't right. I set the meter to continuous on so I could be sure to '0' the needle without it shuting off. Not sure why the red flash/lightening bolt would read f/57 in flash mode, with the ISO set to 400.</p> <p>This may be the wrong forum and maybe I should repost this to Lighting?</p>

<p>Thanks Gerry. Great shot. I got a couple foamcore boards and a poster board and the combination is working well so far just using window light. One of the foamcore boards makes a decent reflector, with the item sitting on the poster board. So far I haven't had a chance or the room to set up the flashes and umbrellas but it's on my to do list. I did pick up a copy of the "Light -- Science & Magic" book by Hunter, Fuqua & Fils, along with one by Scott Kelby, "Light It, Shoot It, Retouch It". Both look like great books. I just need to have the time to read them. LOL.<br> <br> I also made a very addictive discovery of the photo courses they have on creativelive.com and I've been sucked into watching the free rebroadcasts of some of the photo classes.<br> <br> I did pick up a used Gossen Luna Pro f to use as a flash meter but I'm confused by the readings it's giving me so I posted a message in The Beginners forum since I'm not really sure of what I'm doing. LOL.<br> <br> Thanks,<br> Mark</p>

<p>Hi All,<br> I bought a used Gossen Luna Pro f light meter. It's a newer version that uses a 9v battery. I'd like to use it as a flash meter. Reading the PDF of the manual is a little confusing and I think I get what they mean, but the numbers don't seem to work out right.</p> <p>The meter is set in flash mode, ISO 400, the VFx/EF is set exactly at 1, with the incident light dome in place and pointed back at the SB-26 flash. The flash is off camera but on the same level as the meter (both on the floor). My Nikon D3300 with the 55-200mm f/4-5.6 lens is set for ISO 400, is on a tripod and is about 4' high. I've checked the meter battery using both the battery test button and a battery tester. Both indicate the 9v battery is just fine.</p> <p>The Nikon SB-26 flash is set to Manual 1/1, Zoom 24mm and is exactly 8 feet away from the Gossen Luna Pro f. I use a wireless flash trigger which is non-TTL. The camera's calculated effective distance is 10.8' away. I fire the camera and flash, and null the Gossen by turning the dial until the meter reads "0".</p> <p>According to the manual, the red zero mark on the dial should be between the two red triangles on the scale and it is. So the flash should not be either under or over powered for the meter. The red flash mark on the calculator dial (looks like a Z symbol) points to 1/3 stop below f/64 which is f/57. Um, huh? LOL.</p> <p>My D3300 is set to Manual with a shutter speed of 1/60. If I understand flash lighting correctly, the flash exposure is only affected by the f stop. The shutter speed is used to adjust for ambient light. If I have the aperture wide open for that lens (f/4@55mm), I get an image that is maybe 1-1 1/2 stops under exposed. So I'm not sure why the Gossen reading, using the red flash mark, would indicate f/57 which would be a gross under exposure.</p> <p>If I point the camera at the overhead fluorescent lights, so it's about a foot or so away, and use f/4, I need a shutter speed of 1/500 for the camera to indicate a "perfect" exposure. I set the meter for ambient reflected light reading at the same height, and it also says to use 1/500 at f/4. so it seems like the meter is reading okay, at least for reflected ambient light.</p> <p>Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong and why I'm getting such a weird reading in flash mode? Could the meter be okay for ambient light readings but broken for flash?</p> <p>TIA,<br> Mark</p>

<p>Charles: Thanks for the book rec. It's on my wish list now.</p> <p>Craig: Thanks for getting me pointed in a starting direction. Interesting. Hadn't thought about reflections of the ribs. I initially set it up for shoot through since I thought that would be more likely to emulate a light tent but had wondered if bounce was more appropriate. I had originally thought using them on both sides like I would if I had a light tent, but I'll try the 45/45 + 45/45 idea. Good point on checking on computer as well, plus looking at the histograms. I'll Google how to interpret a histogram. Thx. </p> <p>Joe: Thanks for the link. You sure that's not The Sorting Hat? LOL. I'm on a budget so I'm trying to avoid getting a tent if I can get okay results with my current setup. If it doesn't work out then I'll be looking at making a light tent. I just wanted to avoid that since, klutz that I am, I'd probably cut myself doing it. LOL. I was also thinking a tent would limit me in terms of object size and I don't want to haul out a 60" tent every time I want to shoot something. Plus I'll probably get more use out of the light stands, wireless flash/shutter triggers and the 4 umbrella's it comes with.<br> Thanks for the ideas on a flash meter. While I'd love a Sekonic, that's way out of my price range but I wasn't sure what was a good brand for a low budget price, if there was such a think. While I can/will "chimp" the exposures as Craig mentioned for my light tent emulation, the meter would help in other situations where I'm doing a one or two light setup for other things. Thx.</p> <p>Thanks guys. The advice is much appreciated.<br> Mark</p>

<p>I'm wondering if I can use two flashes, with white "soft" umbrellas to simulate the affect of using a light box/tent for small product shots, assuming I have the background handled.</p> <p>My question is what's the best way to do this if that sort of setup is reasonable, since I'm VERY new at this. I have two old Nikon flashes, stands, wireless flash triggers and 33" soft white umbrellas that I gather could be used as bounce, or shoot through. I have a low end Nikon DSLR and will be setting the flashes for manual power and adjusting the output as I go since I can't afford a flash meter, and the flash triggers are not CLS compatible. </p> <p>This is my first "lighting kit", so I'm not sure about things like, when setting up the flash and umbrellas, how close should they be to each other. Is there an optimal distance between the flash head and umbrella? Should I face the flash units away from the product and use the umbrellas for bounce or is aiming them through the umbrellas the way to go?</p> <p>Any tips would be greatly appreciated as would any pointers to sites that would explain how to do this.</p> <p>Also, is it possible to find an okay flash meter for around $60 or is that a dream?</p> <p>Thanks for your patience with a "quarter step up from total" newbie.<br> Mark</p>