noel_pilipino

<p>FYI, the above solution is only for the Nikon 5000. For the Nikon 9000, I had to use the other driver that is out there from 2009. </p>

Thanks, Colin rot taking the time. I have a better undestanding now.

Can some provide summary? I.e.,

 

Nikon Sanner: Wide Gamut RGB

Editing Resulting Scans in Photoshop ??????

 

What should my photoshop color space setting be to edit the resulting Wide Gamut RGB files from my Nikon 5000 and

9000?

<p>Hello,<br /> I am using Nikon Scan (Windows 4.03) on Windows 10 Pro 64bit (My Windows 10 Pro is actually installed on a 15" 2014 MacBook Pro Retina using Bootcamp!) with great success.<br>

<br /> It's a very easy process to install Nikon Scan 4.03 on a 64bit Windows 10 Pro thanks to this guy (Axel Rietschin) http://axelriet.blogspot.com/2009_10_01_archive.html</p>

<p>I downloaded Nikon Scan Software from here: https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14463/~/nikon-scan-4.0.3---windows-vista</p>

<p>I downloaded the updated Nikon Scan Driver here: http://www.fastpictureviewer.com/bin/NikonUsbScanners64.zip<br>

<br /> It may also work on Wondows 10 Home, I have not tried it.<br>

<br /> By the way, I followed this YouTube step by step to put Windows 10 on a 2014 MacBook retina using Mac's Bootcamp Utility. (Then I installed the Nikon Scan in the Windows 10.)<br>

<br /> This video shows how to install Windows 10 on a MacBook Pro:<br />

<p> </p>

<p>Lens is over the top. A lens for the filthy rich or an untreated Nikon gear acquisition addiction. <br>

I'm fine with my Nikon 85 1.8 G at 1/5 the cost.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/nikon-300mm-ƒ2-8-d-af-s-if-ed.134959/">This is the lens you want, if you have $2000.</a> <a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_tele.html">Nikon's most incredible optic.</a></p>

I have Schneider, Nikon, and

Rodenstock. I cannot attest to

Fujinon but the latest Rodenstock

lenses such as 45,55 are top

shelf. I also have Rodenstock 210

that beat the daylights out of my

Nikon 210. I also have a very

fine Nikon 90. My Schneider 72xl

is razor sharp.

<p>Hello, I am new to using strip boxes.<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/501146-REG/Westcott_3668_Bruce_Dorn_Strip_Bank.html">I am using these 18x42 strip boxes</a>. I purchased the 40 degree <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/829982-REG/Westcott_2474_40_Degree_Fabric_Grid.html">optional honeycomb grid for them</a><br>

So the strip bank has a smaller internal baffle diffuser, a also a selection of -.25, -.5, and -1 stop larger front diffusion panels, and finally this optional 40 degree honeycomb grid as above.<br>

Is it correct that when using the honeycomb grid, one typically still uses one of the three front difussion panels behind the honeycomb grid?<br>

Looking forward to using these!<br>

Thanks in advance for all knowledgeable answers.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>than simply altering the mirror angle away from 45 degrees<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p><strong>Or</strong> can it be assumed that if there is a consistent back or front focus shift with precise manual focusing, the main mirror is <strong>not</strong> at 45 degrees?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Only reason to fine tune it if you have a split image focusing screen installed because that is the only way to see that it is ever so slightly off. With a standard focusing screen you can not see if the focusing screen needs to be fine tuned.<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I disagre. The reason to fine tune is because at a subject distance of <strong>appx</strong> 2 to 3 feet, my actual "on film" focus point is a good 3 inches further away from camera than that indicated <strong>CLEARLY</strong> on my matte focus screen. <br>

A 3 inch focus differential is a big difference when taking portraits with lens wide open. You eyes are basically going to be out of focus consistently. <br>

<br>

Furthermore, anyone consistently moving their camera forward 3 inches from their brain's *push shutter* decision to their finger pushing shutter has neurological challenges to overcome, and yes THAT group would need a tripod to assess if there is a problem to begin with.</p>

<p>I believe on my D300, the main mirror and autofocus mirror adjusted in tandem and the autofocus mirror may have had an additional dedicated screw adjustment, which I did not need to use.<br>

I have not adjusted yet or even taken a look at the setup on my D610.</p>

YES, the issue is with all (3 nikons 1.8g's and a sigma 1.4) manual focus AND autofocus mode.

<p>Hello,<br>

I have a newish Nikon D610 that I suspect has a misadjusted mirror stop as I am getting consistent back focusing (actual focus point in photo is further away from lens than how it appeared in viewfinder).<br>

I had this problem with my D300 and I carefully adjusted the mirror stop screw with a hex wrench and eliminated this problem in a trial and error adjustment that took an hour once I figured out which direction to turn for what effect....<br>

Has anyone else tried Adjusting Mirror Stop Screw on a Nikon DSLR to fix consistent focus issues under conditions of using lenses wide open close subject distance?</p>

 

<p><a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/129489-50-year-old-kodak-plus-x-roll-still-works.html">Check out this thread on APUG.</a><br>

The developer was kodak Xtol (1+1, I believe)</p>

<p>Wait til Nikon or Canon start installing micro T Grain shape pixels that randomly regenerate themselves across the sensors for each exposure, with 18 stop dynamic range - totally mimicking film. All current digital SLR cameras will be found at Goodwill for $50 each.</p>