andrew_ito

From what I understand from talking with Terrance Reimer at

WCI, he's told me that you can print Lightjet prints up to 40x60

with great quality now from the new 11 megapixel Canon 1Ds. I

can only assume that the 14 megapixel Kodak 14n will do just

as good if not better with the extra 3 megapixels.

 

I have a Mamiya 7 and a Fuji 645zi, but digital is catching up so

quickly that I'm rethinking my choices in MF vs a full frame digital

slr. Having had and shot with many MF cameras, you can't really

compare the range of focal lengths, fast lenses, zooms and DOF

available in 35mm to medium format. If printing big is your only

reason for going medium format, I'd stick with your Nikon glass

and get the new Kodak 14n.

Just wonder which LF cameras besides the obvious Linhof that

use Linhof compatible boards. I have an Ebony 23S and would

like to shoot larger formats in the future and was wondering

which cameras I could use my lenses and boards on.

Obviously, I would have to use lenses with a large enough

image circle for the 8x10, but was wondering what my options

are. This I already know, Ebony, Linhof, Wista. Any others?

Ooops! Sorry to bring up a sore subject with FAPS. I didn't

realize that they carry such a negative feeling around here. Just

trying to be helpful with what I though was a good deal...

I'm planning on taking some photos in Europe next spring and had some similar questions. Right now I have a Mamiya 7 with 65 & 150mm lenses and a Fuji 645zi rangefinder that I'm thinking of selling. As I thought about it more, I found that the Fuji would be much more easy to walk around and shoot with without sacrificing the medium format quality. Granted, the 6x7 transparency would be much better resolution-wise, but with film and processing costs and the likelihood that I wouldn't be printing larger than 16x20, should I stick with the Fuji? I've been using the Fuji zi for about a year and a half and just got the Mamiya a few weeks ago so theres bound to be some time necessary to get comfortable with the camera. I just thought that I'd be much more apt to shoot freely when I know that I'd be spending half as much on film and processing and because it's so much easier to carry around and shoot. Or... should I just bring both cameras and use the Fuji with Provia 100F for looser, freer shooting and the Mamiya 7 with Velvia for landscapes where I might print larger. Hmmmm.... Decisions, decisions....

Although this distributor is in the US, it might save you enough money to make it worthwhile. Try www.fineartphotosupply.com. Their prices are considerably less than Badger Graphics. Here is the link to the camera page:

 

http://www.fineartphotosupply.com/fieldcamerapage.htm

 

Good luck!

I have a Sekonic L508 meter which I purchased used. Lately it's

been a struggle for me to get accurate meter readings. I've read

Charles Campbell's book on Chromazone metering, have

studied photography for over 10 years and worked for a wedding

photographer for 6 years. Anyways, I took my meter to Quality

Light Metric in Hollywood to get it calibrated and the guy there

told me that the incident and spot readings from the L508 are

often off. He told me my meter was within Sekonic's tolerances

and made a slight 0.2 stop alteration. Well, when I compare a

spot reading on an 18% grey card to the incident reading off of

the built in dome the exposure varies around a stop or more. I've

taken precautions to make sure the light is the same as well.

Someone posted on this site that Sekonic meters are calibrated

to 13% grey instead of 18%. Is this true and could that be what's

affecting my readings? I'd like to get this all taken care of to

begin having confidence in my meter readings. Have any of you

508 users had issues with metering accuracy?

Even though I was only there for Saturday and Sunday, it was

one of the best shooting experiences that I've had. Having a

bunch of other large format guys around was really inspiring.

Also, being able to shoot for a few days straight was nice.

Usually, I'm tied to what my non-photographer friends want to do.

 

If anyone from the workshop wants to go shoot sometime over

the winter please let me know. I don't know if Per has

something up his sleeve for the winter, but I'd be open to flying

out to Utah, New Mexico or Arizona this winter to do some

shooting. I'm pretty much restricted to weekends, but can extend

it a day or two.

Thanks for all the responses. Everyone seems to like the

Fujinon 240A. Even though I might not be able to focus as close

as a 210, maybe with an Ebony extended lensboard it will get

me much closer. The reason I don't want the tele has more to

do with the size and weight of the lens. Plus, I want the option to

use these lenses on a larger format than just my current 6x9

camera. Perhaps a 210 might be a better option for close

focusing? Which 210 lenses are known as being very sharp

and somewhat lightweight like the Fuji 240A? Thanks again for

all the helpful responses!

Thanks Eugene. I remember your posts on the Fuji lenses.

Coincidentally, I just got off the phone with Jim at Midwest photo.

He sold me the Ebony 23s and the two Nikkor lenses that I

currently own. I like the 240 f/9 because it's so light and compact

and sharp. Maybe the size of a top hat lensboard would cancel

out any weight savings. The tele lenses seem heavy though. I'd

also want the option to use my current lenses on a 4x5. How big

is the Fujinon Tele 300mm f/8?

Here's the deal. I have an Ebony 23S that has a maximum of

275mm bellows draw. Currently I'm using a 65 and a 105 lens,

but would like to purchase a 150, 240 and possibly a 300 to use

on this camera.

 

At a recent workshop I had the opportunity to try out a 300mm

Nikkor f/9 but was unable to focus even to infinity. I know that

Ebony makes an extender back (which is too pricey for me) and

some top hat lensboards. Is there a way to use this lens and

not have to purchase the extender back? Would the top hat

lensboard give me any movements at all?

 

The Fujinon 240mm f/8 - A lens is my choice for 240's. It's small

and light and has gotten rave reviews. How close would I be

able to focus with this lens? Any users of this lens with

comments?

 

Finally, I'm still trying to figure out which 150mm lens to get.

There are some less expensive lenses like the Caltar II-N's that

I'm interested in. Ideally, a Sironar S or N would be great, but a

bit expensive. Weight is an issue as is sharpness. Any ideas?

Charles Campbell has a book where he explains a system he

calls "Chromazone". It's not the zone system, but it does give a

good overview on metering for color and uses "zones". It's a

good overall book and worth looking into. I bought a used one

off of Amazon.com for ten bucks or so.

Mamiya 7, Pentax 67, Bronica GS-1 or one of the new Canon

1Ds or Kodak 14n digital SLR's.... All of the above cameras have

something great to offer, but I'm not sure which to choose.

 

First, let me say that I have a Fuji GA645zi, an Ebony 23s view

camera, and a Canon SLR set up. I want a compact camera that

I can take hiking and backpacking, but with a bigger image area

and more lens choices than the Fuji. I mostly shoot landscapes

and love the Ebony for this purpose. My fianceé doesn't really

enjoy sitting around when I'm adjusting focus and tilts on the

view camera though. So, speed of set up and shooting is a

factor. I also would like a camera that can be used for weddings

and portraits.

 

With the advent of the new 11-14 megapixel SLR's I'm not so

sure that I should get another film camera. Eventually, I'd like to

go completely digital for the ease of transferring files to digital.

Drum scans can get pretty pricey and digital seems to have

more latitude than Velvia or Provia. Having a digital camera

seems like a good option, except the prices are way above my

budget.

 

The Mamiya 7 draws me because of it's light weight and

extremely sharp lenses. This camera could replace my Fuji.

However, it's very expensive and I've heard some troublesome

news about the rangefinders going out of focus and inability to

focus close ups.

 

The Pentax 6x7 has a great group of lenses, but it's very heavy,

has issues with mirror shake and only flash syncs at 1/30th of a

second. Hmmm..... maybe this isn't so great of an option.

 

The Bronica has a good price point and is an SLR, but uses leaf

shutters which is compelling. However, is the camera too big to

lug around for backpacking and hiking? Are the lenses sharp?

I've heard some varying opinions on this.

 

If anyone has any good options to the above or

recommendations it would be highly appreciated. Again, I want

something primarily for landscape, but with the ability to be used

for portraits or weddings. Or, would the switch to the new 14

megapixel Nikon based Kodak 14n be the best option. How

about the Fuji S2? This camera is much cheaper, although only

6 megapixels. It's tough to pay so much for technology that

becomes obsolete in a year or two though. Thanks for your help

and patience for this long post.

I haven't tried or seen the Panfield. But, have you tried the Ebony

Cameras? I have a 23s and it is incredible. With the 45SW you

can use a 35mm lens up to a 400mm tele. It is incredibly

versatile and light. Ebony hand crafts their cameras out of Ebony

or Mahogany and Titanium.

Count another vote for MF. I'd go with a Mamiya 7 or a Fuji

rangefinder. Both will easily print quality 16x20's. The Mamiya

has 5 great lenses to choose from, albeit expensive lenses.

The Fuji GA645zi is extremely lightweight and compact and

comes with a 55-90mm zoom. I have this camera and really

appreciate it's size and weight, but would opt for the Mamiya 7 if I

had to do it again because of the larger neg and lens selection.

I also shoot with an Ebony 23s view camera. It's my main

camera, but takes much more time and effort than your SLR or a

rangefinder. It seems like you have to think in a different, more

contemplative mindset when shooting large format. If you're on

the go and travelling with the camera I'd definitely shoot with a

MF rangefinder.

I would tend to agree with David on this one. As an owner of the

Fuji GA645zi, I have often considered switching to another format

because of the quirks of using a rangefinder.

 

For travel though, the compactness of the Fuji is great. I take it

with me on backpacking trips where every ounce counts. The

lens is sharp and very contrasty, however as previously noted it

does tend to distort a little at the wider focal lengths. Also, the

focal lengths are very limiting. With the Bronica you have the

option of using many different lenses and can preview DOF and

filters. Using ND grads and polarizers are much more difficult

with a rangefinder. If you're still wanting to purchase the Fuji at a

good price you can email me.

I'm scanning medium format color transparencies on a flatbed

scanner and printing them on an Epson 1160 & 1520 both set

up with quadtone inksets. For some images, I have some

Tango drum scans made.

 

The Piezography software is great and easy to use and the

prints rival that of platinum prints. Epson's new 2200 is also

supposedly very good. I haven't used one yet, but people have

claimed it to be equal to or superior to the quadtone ink process.

This process when used with MIS or Piezotone inks are

considered archival with around a 100 year lifespan. You can

read up more on it at www. inkjetmall.com.

 

Good luck!

I use the Piezography software with an Epson 1160 with a

continuous inking system and MIS FS-N inks. In addition, I also

use an Epson 1520 that currently has Piezo original ink carts in

it. I really like the Piezo plug-in. However, the papers that I enjoy

show a bit of corduroy banding. Epson Archival Matte and

Hahnemuhle Photo Rag both seem subject to this.

Does anyone have any recommendations on books or guides

that has information on good photo locations. I know that there's

a ton of great places to shoot, but don't have directions or

pictures of them to see if it's something I'd be interested in. If the

guide or book has directions, best time of day and best season

to shoot that would be great. Michael Frye's Yosemite book is a

great example, but it's limited to just Yosemite. Thanks!

 

Andy

Hello. Just wondering if any of you have a good technique for

focusing near and far quickly with a camera that has an axis tilt.

I've heard that with base tilts, you can focus on the far and tilt the

near into focus. However, with my Ebony 23s I only have axis tilt.

Some of the Ebonies have asymetric tilts, but not the 23s. Does

anyone have a good quick technique for focusing other than

tilting, focusing, re-tilting, re-focusing, etc? Thanks!

 

Andy

I found this online at digitalfocus.net.

 

http://www.digitalfocus.net/sections/views/1DsRumour/

1DsRelease.htm

 

I guess it's true. It's supposed to be at the same price point as

the current 1D as well according to the website.

I use a non-TTL Sunpak 120J auto bare bulb flash for weddings

with a Fuji 645. It works great for me. You get some fall off on

wide angle group shots, but for smaller groups it works fine.

Dean,

 

I had an SL66 and used a light meter with it. The built-in meter

with the 66E and 66SE might be especially nice when using the

built in bellows for close up work. With the SL66 you had to

adjust exposure for bellows extension by reading some

markings on the side of the bellows and compensating your

exposure accordingly. If the built in meters of the E and SE do

that for you it might save some time and effort. Also, having a

built in spot meter would give you one less piece of equipment

to carry along with you. If I could have a spot meter built in to my

view camera I'd love it. The newer models are significantly more

expensive though.

Eugene,

 

Just wondering how much Jim is selling the Fuji 240mm A to

you for. I'm looking at that lens and a 300mm f/9 Nikkor M for my

2x3 camera as teles. Thanks.

 

Andy

Actually this is more of another question. What kind of tape do

you use when taping the film to the glass? Does it damage the

film or leave residue on the glass? Do you have any problems

with Newton's rings or scanner focusing points? Thanks.

32. Started shooting in high school photo class. Went to Cal

State Long Beach and got my BFA in Fine Art Photography.

Worked as a graphic designer & for a studio photographer for a

while. Now shooting mostly for myself and a few weddings. Oh

yeah, I shoot with an Ebony 23s. It's 6x9 but still a view camera!

:o)