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dzung_le1

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Posts posted by dzung_le1

  1. - No. Not unless you re-roll the film in darkness and re-expose it in a working camera. Even then you'd run the risk of overlapping a frame.

     

    It's just a bit of film. Forget it!

    Thank you!

     

    I finished the roll today and checked the camera again.

     

    To my inspection, sometimes the counter resets, sometimes it does not.

     

    So I guess I just open- close until it does, then load the film.

     

    If there is further issue, I will bring it to the local camerarepair man.

     

    Thanks again!

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  2. The C220 is a very old camera now.

    What's probably happening is that the frame counter isn't winding back to zero after the back is opened. I've had this happen on an old Mamiya 645 that was unused for quite a while.

     

    There's a spring that winds up as the film is advanced. Opening the camera back releases a ratchet that should allow the spring to rewind the frame counter. The spring may have got weak or the mechanism got stiff, so that the frame counter no longer zeroes, or takes a long time to rewind.

     

    Sometimes just 'working' the wind on and release sequence will clear the problem. Otherwise the camera needs a service. Unsurprising after, what? 55 years or so!

     

    According to your other posts you own Yashica, Rollei and C330 TLRs. So the temporary loss of the C220 is hardly a 'tragedy'.

     

    Thanks for clearing that up for me. I guess I can try it after finishing the roll.

     

    But, about the 2 frames lost, can I do something about it?

  3. Hi guys,

     

    I don't know how this happened but after loading and closing the back cover, the counter started at 03.

     

    I checked the procedure step by step and I did nothing wrong.

     

    When I advance film, the counter works normally. Not It reached 08.

     

    My question: Does this mean I will lose 02 frames after shooting the 12th frame?

     

    Can I do something to avoid this tragedy?

  4. Just an FYI - you can also use the Zeiss lenses designed for the Contax system (C/Y) on Yashica bodies - which, although not quite as elegant as the Contax bodies, may be easier to find and a lot less expensive.

    I know there are many other options. But after studying quite a while, I narrow down to those only two cameras.

    It is difficult to explain, but I am looking for the characteristics of the equipment.

    Like, It will be much easier if I buy Zeiss ZK lenses, or ZS lenses because I am using m42 and Pentax K system. Or I can mount ZE lenses on my Canon digital.

    Or I even don't need to buy anything because the lenses from these systems are very good performers already.

  5. I want to buy some CZ lenses (35mm, 50mm and a short tele)

     

    If I use Contax system, I will buy COntax RTS III to get 100% viewfinder coverage.

     

    I love to have a Nikon F2, but Carl Zeiss ZF lenses are just not so cheap.

     

    Which system should I go into? a Nikon F2 or a Contax RTS III in term of usage feeling, hand holding feeling and shooting experience?

  6. Owning a complete set of Mamiya C330s and being happy with its quality, now I want a smaller TLR to have fun everyday

     

    I prefer Rolleicord Vb due to its cosmetic look and its small weight. But someone said the viewfinder is a bit dim

     

    Do some research, I find out that a Yashica Mat have more convinient button arrangement . Maybe it is only me but I think the photos taken by the Yashica on flickr get more feeling and characters than ones taken by the Rollei

     

    Budget is not an issue. Light meter is not an issue. It is about the cosmetic look and convinient usage. Should i go for the dimmer screen of Rolleicord or a bit heavier and not so elegant outlfit of the Yashica?

  7. <p>Thanks you guys for your suggestions.<br>

    So as a conclusion, I can tell that many people practically put their Rolleiflex in a normal camera bag, like I do. This means you will pull the camera out of protection zone for taking pictures, than put it back. <br>

    I still think the camera looks "cooler" without any case, even its original case, but I am also afraid of physical damages. I regret buying a "mint" camera, since I'm not alway gentle with my gears.<br>

    That's it! Maybe I don't need that leather case at all. </p>

  8. <p>Thank you @<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=478995">Colin O</a>, your answer is all my need<br>

    What Paul said is news to me. Since the only protection case for Rolleiflex I know is that leather case.<br>

    Do you have any suggestion? @<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=5373843">paul wheatland</a>, you don't use any case at all, or you have another third party case that better suits the Rolleiflex?</p>

  9. <p>I have a Rolleiflex 3.5F model I.<br>

    I bought it one year ago, but without the case.<br>

    Now I want to find a leather case, but it's difficult to look for a specific case for model 1 at good price.<br>

    So I want to ask:<br />- Can I use leather case of other Rolleiflex, like 2.8F, or 3.5E for my 3.5F?<br />- Can I use leather case of other 3.5F, like mark iii for my 3.5F mark i?<br>

    If you know about this issue, I hope you can share it with me<br>

    Thanks</p>

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