mike_eckman

<p>Were you ever able to find more information about what that dial is on top of your Medalist? I have a Medalist I with the same exact thing on top. Mine does not have the green window, however. <br /><br />I asked about it on another forum and people hypothesized that it could be an auxiliary frame counter, but I can't see how thats possible. The ordering of the numbers makes absolutely no sense in relation to frame spacing. <br /><br />I've shot 2 rolls through my Medalist and the built in frame counter works fine, so I dont even see a need for a second frame counter.<br> If you have learned any new info since this original post, I'd love to hear it!</p> <p>-Mike</p>

<p>Another vote for separation. This can happen with DVDs and old Laserdiscs too. In the Laserdisc days, this used to be referred to as "Laser Rot" but it was really just a separation of the glue. Sadly, its not repairable. If you stop down that lens to f/4 or smaller, Im sure it wont affect the pictures, but its not going to get any better.</p>

<p>I think some people are over thinking this. The Edinex II's shutter is not coupled to the body of the camera at all. There is absolutely no type of double exposure prevention on this camera because the body of the camera is completely independent of the shutter. You could take 10 exposures all on top of one another without advancing the film, or you could advance the film 3 times without firing the shutter at all.<br> <br />The Edinex II functions similarly to the Argus C3 and Certo Dollina which are two other 35mm film cameras that were originally designed in the 1930s. The Argus C3 has a film catch on top of the camera, and the Certo Dollina has one on the front of the camera. In both of those instances, in order to advance the film for the next exposure, you must put pressure on the film catch while simultaneously turning the film advance knob. You only need to apply pressure to the film catch to get the film advance started. Once the knob starts moving, you can release pressure on the film catch and keep advancing the film until it stops, at which time it is ready for the next exposure.<br> <br />The Edinex II works much in the same way, except instead of a 'film catch', you have that little disc on the left top side of the camera. This only works properly when film is in the camera, but if you want to play with it, you can mimic film by opening the rear door and using your thumb to spin the sprocket shaft that would normally move if film was in the camera.<br> <br />To see it in action, turn the R/V wheel so it is in the "V" position and open the rear door. Using your right thumb, try to rotate the sprocket shaft counterclockwise. It shouldn't move. This is how the camera would be when you are ready to take your picture. Pretend you make an exposure and now you're ready to advance the film. Using your left thumb, put counterclockwise pressure on the disc on the left side of the camera. While doing this, using your right thumb, you can begin rotating the sprocket shaft counterclockwise. This is the motion that would happen if you were advancing the film. Once you begin moving the sprocket just a little bit, let go of the disc with your left thumb and continue rotating the sprocket shaft with your right thumb until it stops. Once you feel it click into position, the camera thinks you have advanced one frame of film. Pretend to take another picture and apply pressure to the disc again, and rotate the shaft again to go to the next frame. You would keep doing this until you run out of film, at which time, you would rotate the R/V disc to the "R" position, and then using the left knob on top of the camera, rewind the film back into the cassette.</p>

<p>John, good guess on the V and R. I honestly dont know a lick of German, but I deduced that "R" was the same as Rewind. When in the "R" position, all locks are disabled and the film can be rewound into the cassette.<br /><br /> "V" mode is for normal film taking where the camera will only allow you to advance the film one frame. <br /><br /> The Edinex II functions similarly to the Argus C3 and Certo Dollina which are two other 35mm film cameras that were originally designed in the 1930s. The Argus C3 has a film catch on top of the camera, and the Certo Dollina has one on the front of the camera. In both of those instances, in order to advance the film for the next exposure, you must put pressure on the film catch while simultaneously turning the film advance knob. You only need to apply pressure to the film catch to get the film advance started. Once the knob starts moving, you can release pressure on the film catch and keep advancing the film until it stops, at which time it is ready for the next exposure.<br /><br /> The Edinex II works much in the same way, except instead of a 'film catch', you have that little disc on the left top side of the camera. This only works properly when film is in the camera, but if you want to play with it, you can mimic film by opening the rear door and using your thumb to spin the sprocket shaft that would normally move if film was in the camera. <br /><br /> To see it in action, turn the R/V wheel so it is in the "V" position and open the rear door. Using your right thumb, try to rotate the sprocket shaft counterclockwise. It shouldn't move. This is how the camera would be when you are ready to take your picture. Pretend you make an exposure and now you're ready to advance the film. Using your left thumb, put counterclockwise pressure on the disc on the left side of the camera. While doing this, using your right thumb, you can begin rotating the sprocket shaft counterclockwise. This is the motion that would happen if you were advancing the film. Once you begin moving the sprocket just a little bit, let go of the disc with your left thumb and continue rotating the sprocket shaft with your right thumb until it stops. Once you feel it click into position, the camera thinks you have advanced one frame of film. Pretend to take another picture and apply pressure to the disc again, and rotate the shaft again to go to the next frame. You would keep doing this until you run out of film, at which time, you would rotate the R/V disc to the "R" position, and then using the left knob on top of the camera, rewind the film back into the cassette.<br /> <br />The frame counter is coupled to the sprocket shaft, so once it locks into position for the next exposure, the frame counter should advance +1. This camera has no automatic reset of the frame counter, so when you are done with a roll, you must manually reset the frame counter back to 0.<br /> <br />Hopefully all of this makes sense. If you are confused, just try it, and it should make much more sense once you actually try it. This is a pretty cool camera, and although mine isnt in the best of shape, it should be good enough to shoot a roll in it.</p>

<p>I actually fixed my problem! Turns out it was pretty simple to fix, and all I needed was a set of precision screwdrivers. Contrary to what I had feared, there wasnt any corrosion, or bent gears or anything difficult, just a stuck locking mechanism covered in a healthy coat of 70 year old grime and goo!<br> Rather than repost everything here, here is a link to the thread with pictures and a video of what I had to do to repair it.<br> http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=146560</p>

<p>That is an excellent idea! Ronsonol to the rescue! :)</p>

<p>Cory and Rick, thank you both for your responses, but the shutter lock mechanism you are talking about is on the Super Dollina which is a different camera. Mine is a pre-war Dollina II where the shutter release is not coupled with the winding mechanism. There is absolutely no physical connection between the shutter and anything in the camera, so there is no lock.</p> <p>I posted my same problem on another forum and found 3 other people who have come forward and said they had Dollinas like mine with the same problem. Apparently over time, something either gets jammed inside the winding mechanism, or possibly the original lubrication turns into glue causing the takeup spool not to move at all. Making it worse, the takeup spool itself is made from a very soft metal and is prone to cracking if you force it. Mine already has a crack, so I dont want to make it worse.</p> <p>Two of the guys who had this problem and got it repaired both had to have it sent it for service. I'll have to weigh the options as to whether or not I want to do this myself.</p>

<p>JDM, thanks for the link, but I've already tried everything in both Dollina manuals Ive found online. In both cases, they say pull up on the rewind knob, and insert a new cartridge. Then pull out 4 inches of film and then disengage the takeup spool by pulling up on the winding knob and turning it in the opposite direction of the arrow.<br> I can pull up on the winding know, and I can turn it in the opposite direction of the arrow, but the takeup spool remains stuck. Nothing I do makes the take up spool move at all as if its locked into position somehow. </p>

<p>Hello,<br> I recently acquired a late 1930s Certo Dollina II in pretty good shape. The lens and shutter appear to work perfectly at all speeds, and the body of the camera is in decent shape, but for the life of me, I cannot get the take up spool to wind.<br> I have tried every combination of cocking the shutter, firing the shutter, rotating the film counter back to 0, lifting up on the winding knob, and nothing, its like its jammed.<br> To be clear, I am talking about the take up spool on the right, not the left side where you would put in your film cartridge.<br> Is there a setting I am just missing? I am afraid of trying too much muscle and breaking something on this wonderful camera.<br> -Mike</p>