john_bear

<p><strong>Tom</strong> - I would tend to agree with you, that this looks like failing cement between elements, because it's so very uniform, and radiating from the perimeter inwards. It certainly doesn't look like any fungus I've ever seen.<br> So, I too am very interested to know what the consensus of opinion is.</p>

<p>Love those sunburst shots - they look like they were taken on another planet. Very cool.</p>

<p>Thanks for such a comprehensive reply Mike. Yes it works just as you described.</p>

<p>Only threw in the Lynx 5000, because you sited the Minister D, and that had the cell on the body. Anyhow, I like your thinking Mike. These facts have just been lost over time, but they are very relevant to anyone interested in the evolution of camera designs. Keep digging, and thanks for raising a good question :-)</p>

<p>How about the Yashica Lynx 5000, which some claim was introduced in 1962 (although the date seems to vary according to where you look)?</p>

<p>Sorry, but I too don't like the blurring. I'd like it to be pin sharp.</p>

<p>Canon Canonet's (first version anyway) were not an EV system.</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew - absolutely the confirmation I was looking for :-)</p>

<p>Thanks to all who have commented, but you have sort-of answered a question that I didn't ask. Maybe I wasn't sufficiently clear?</p> <p>Anyhow, I ran some test, during which my camera performed without fault, and to my surprise found that the camera did select an appropriate aperture for each shutter speed within the range of those viable (e.g. f/1.9@1/125 th, f/2.8@1/60 th, f/4@1/30 th, down to f/16@1/2 nd).</p> <p>So, the camera does do what it claims, and I can only conclude that the Indoor/Cloudy/Sunny procedure was a design afterthought intended to get the initial set-up somewhere in the middle of exposure options. It is however total unnecessary. I think the morale is - sometimes it doesn't pay to read the instruction booklet.</p>

<p>At first sight, it appears that any viable shutter speed can be selected, and the aperture will adjust accordingly. However, the user manual advocates a very specific approach which steers the pre-selection of a particular shutter speed for various lighting conditions.</p> <p>1. Set the lens aperture ring to Auto<br />2. Set the film speed ... by shifting the film speed indicator<br />3. Turn the shutter speed ring and set the film speed indicator lever to the Indoor, Cloudy or Sunny mark ...</p> <p>The third step brings a preferred shutter speed into operation for any given film speed setting and "Indoor", "Cloudy" or "Sunny" lighting conditions, and I don't follow the logic of this. For example, at a 100 ASA film speed setting, the shutter speed that results from alignment between the Sunny/Cloudy icon is 1/250th.</p> <p>If we apply the Sunny 16 rule (on a sunny day, set the aperture to f/16 and shutter speed to the nearest reciprocal of the ISO for a subject in direct sunlight: f/11 for slightly overcast, etc.) then the shutter speed/aperture combination would be: f/16@1/60th, or f/11@1/125th, or <strong>f/8@1/250th</strong>, or f/5.6@1/500th.</p> <p>So why does the operating procedure steer the user to this particular option of f/8@1/250th? What this suggests to me is that there may be tight limits to the parameters of auto-exposure combinations, such that not all shutter speeds are available (even when viable) and/or not all apertures are available (even when viable).</p> <p>If my camera was working consistently, I could no doubt test which shutter speeds lock the release, but it isn't, so I can't ! However, the results of limited experimentation suggest that deviation from the camera's preferred shutter speed can result in a shutter lock, even when the shutter speed is within the lens aperture limits.</p> <p>Has anyone experimented with this camera, and found the limits of the auto-exposure system?<br> <a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com/">My film camera collection</a></p>

<p>Thanks for everyone's input (especially Rick's). I'm going to consider this mystery solved.<br> The Petri 7s's with a window are the earlier versions.<br> The window does nothing - maybe it was just a way of making the 7s look less like a 7?</p>

<p>Rick: My serial number is 915058, which suggests the "with-outs" are later models.<br> However, when I look at mine closely, I've noticed there is a second meter pointer in the rangefinder window (bottom left facing, behind the green mask). I haven't noticed it before, but I'm looking at it under a bright lamp. It's not a reflection: it's a physical second pointer. <br> Cory's finger trick confirms that the light from the rangefinder window reflects this pointer into the viewfinder window.<br> I love a mystery! I think the translucent window is just decorative, like the Olympus Trips' fake rangefinder widows?</p>

<p>I initially assumed it was something to do with illumination, but I cannot check this because my camera is one without a window.<br> The repair manual diagrams indicate that any light entering this window would only illuminate the underside of the shutter release, since the meter housing appears to block the passage of light to the viewfinder.<br> At the end of the day, the matter is no big deal, but I just like to know about things like this :-)<br> It might just be decorative after all, and do absolutely nothing. Since there are two model variations, obviously someone thought it would be a good addition, or removed it because it was useless. Which was it?</p>

<p>Just wondering if anyone knows much about this camera? Specifically, I've noticed two variations. One one has a translucent window on the front of the top plate, beneath the shutter release. The other variant does not. The user manual shows - but does not name - this window. The Petri 7s repair manual lists it as a decorative blanking plate. It does not seem to serve a purpose, since the repair manual diagrams don't seem to indicate that the plate provides a light path to anything. Does anyone know anything about this blanking plate? Why was it there, and was it featured on the early or late models?</p> <p><a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com">my 35mm film camera collection</a></p>

<p>Thanks Gordon. The double exposure prevention device idea is a really good one, however the shutter is cocked by a separate lever, but I think you might be along the right lines: it's a double wind-on prevention device, either by design or accident. I've experimented, and satisfied myself how it works, but I think I'm just struggling to get my head around the logic (from a user perspective), which might be a mistake? At the end of the day I think it's just an unfamiliar design solution to a mechanical objective.</p>

<p>Thanks Gordon, but it doesn't work in the way you have described: it works in exactly the way I have described. What's unfamiliar to me is the fact that the additional left side control facilitates the degree of film advance. Without first operating this "switch", the film will not advance at all.<br> I was just curious as whether this mechanism was common in 35mm cameras of the early 1950s?</p>

<p>I recently added a Wirgin Edinex II to my collection, and was wondering if anyone could confirm my deductions about the film advance technique? I don't own any other camera as old as this one.<br> The film transport mechanism is a little difficult to fathom at first, but it appears to work like this. On either side of the top plate there are two small movable wheels (or dials). The wheel to the left has an arrow that indicates anti-clockwise rotation (to the right). On the right dial there are the markings V, with an arrow indicating anti-clockwise rotation (to the right), and R with an arrow indicating clockwise rotation (to the left).<br> When the right wheel is set to R, the control to the left locks, and the film roller moves freely in either direction. When the setting is changed to V, the left wheel is unlocked, and the film roller locks. The left hand control can now be turned, which allows the film roller to rotate by the equivalent of one frame, and increments the frame counter. I'm guessing the V is Vorwarts (forwards), and the R is Ruckwarts (backwards)?<br> I posted this question on an old Edinex thread, but I guess it will never be found there.<br> <img src="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com/pictures/edinex25.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /><br> <a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com">My film camera collection</a></p>

<p>Correction - it looks like Joe's (not Martin's).</p>

<p>I've just acquired a Wirgin Edinex ll, which looks like Martin's but it has a different shutter.<br> Anyhow, it took me a while to figure-out how the film transport system works, and I was wondering if anyone could confirm my deductions are correct?<br> On either side of the top plate there are two small movable wheels (or dials). The wheel to the left has an arrow that indicates rotation to the right. On the right dial there are the markings V, with an arrow indicating rotation to the right, and R with an arrow indicating rotation to the left.<br> When the right wheel is set to R, the control to the left locks, and the film roller moves freely in either direction. When the setting is changed to V, the left wheel is unlocked, and the film roller locks. The left hand control can now be turned, which allows the film roller to rotate by the equivalent of one frame, and increments the frame counter. I'm guessing the V is Vorwarts (forwards), and the R is Ruckwarts (backwards).<br> So, winding-on seems to require a twist of the left-side wheel and a twiddle of the film advance knob?<br> <a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com">My film camera collection<a></p>

<p>Very nice quality photos. Personally I'm a bit of a fan of Fujica cameras, so it's good to learn that others appreciate them too. <br> <a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com">my 35mm film camera collection</a></p>

<p>Thank you for this posting. I am very impressed by the quality of your photos. I have a Vito IIa, but sadly the film transport mechanism is broken. I also have a Vito B that I've never used, but I have been inspired to put a film in it, and have a go.<br> <a href="http://www.camera.portraits.srv2.com">my 35mm film camera collection</a></p>