j_buck

hello, recently i shoot in super bright sun (on foma400 ) and i noticed some bad light leaks.

on the weekend i have an important shoot but dont know which holders it were.

Plus its pretty gloomly lately so i cant leave the holders in the sun and see light leaks on the film,

would i get same resolut flashing the film holders with 500ws strobes?

could i identify the bad apples like this?

thanks alot!

<p>thanks!<br>

what confused me today was that the agitation method worked perfect on an expert drum i had.<br>

<br />but rotating the jobodrum in bathtube of temperated water makes sens!<br>

but should i rotate all of the time or in the same manner as i was agitating<br>

...<br>

by pouring water the jobo tank to fill the sheets it takes 1,3 L<br>

which is too much chemicals for only 6 sheets i think and i also think that 1,3L of developer is too much for the film.</p>

<p>i got a Jobo drum 2521 and today i made my first development in this drum.<br>

i was agitating with hands and i put 300mm developer but at the end 1/4 of the sheet was very poorly developed, like there was not enough chemistry in the tank..<br>

is there any advice about hand agitating and how much developer should there be inside of the drum?<br>

or is this drumm made only for machine rotation? bc. it says that min is 270mm</p>

<p>any ideas?<br>

http://i63.tinypic.com/bdjsqc.jpg</p>

<p>thanks alot!</p>

2.7 -3.5.., I'm afraid to go higher to screw up the actual dof, when i want the swirlynes of 2.7

so I cleaned the glass, looks gery good, but outside its still very hard to get the focus right when the subject is far away.

normally i focus on eyelashes, so i have the contrast, but mybe asking the model to put something contrasty on her face

would help? but whaat?

what would weak photoflo solution be? how many drops into how many ml of wather?

thanks!

yes! loss of contrast is also a big part... mybe i should also stop down abit while focusing?

thanks!

its a top viewfinder pacemaker.

how to clean the groundglass? just alchohol?

thanks!

this will be mby a silly question, so im sorry for it. but:

lately ive been shooting alot of LF, and i just got a 165mm f2.7 lens.

and I'm have big problems focusing if the subject is far.

the speed graphic viewfinder is too grainy if magnified alot.

would better groundglass help?

or a better loup? or some special tehnick?

ps. for loup i use my pentax 67 magnifier viewfinder and cheep loup from a shop.

<p>hello!<br>

i have a question about Thorium in Pentax 67 system<br>

i know that Thorium is in the old 105mm f2.4 lenses, but somewhere i was reading that it also might be in the gals of the eyepiece magnifier, the prism viewfinder and the other view magnifiers ...<br>

anyone has any info on this?</p>

<p>hello..<br>

i have an Epson v700 in top condition since 4 years and the pattern you can see you the pics was there since i got it from the shop. i didnt mind back than because it didn't have an effect on the scans, but as i was reading i read it might be fungus some days ago..<br>

or is it just Scaneritits? :)<br>

<br />its only on the plastic that drives up and down, the glass is perfect, so im wondering.. is this fungus?<br>

is it bad? and is it possible that i will spread on my other camera lenses?</p>

*i attached a pic<br /><br />

<p>thanks alot!<img src="https://img2.brain4.photobox.com/35930897e09f69be5f0d8b9015bfe4253e90d9472d5e5a6f32e523cd16e7b9abf426901b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>hello!<br>

i got an offer for 2x Bownes espirit 500<br />in apparently good condition, with 2 stands for about 400$</p>

<p>it doesn't say much on the condition, but it should be good and working...<br>

since this models are pretty old (how old is the espirit model actually?) is it worth buying old studio flashes?<br>

the bulbs should be good the seller says...<br>

lately i was ripped off few times buying 2nd hand gear (i dont have the $ to buy new)<br>

so is there many things that i should be careful with when buying old flash?</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

afaik coverage is not an issue, i read it easily covers 6x7, i was referring more to if some of the models of the lens are a no

go, bc it was a bad batch, or bad glass used. thanks :-)

forum.mflenses.com/mod-your-p6-sonnar-180-2-8-for-pentax-67-t49391.html

i found a option to buy this lens and modify it for the use with Pentax 67, but since i saw that there are different versions of this lens, is

there anything particular i should be checking?

or are some of the version a no go?

thanks!

<p>i having quite bad luck with all of my cameras lately.. so tomorrow i make a test shoot and see...<br>

but damn it happened twice in a row after the focusing screen change and i never had focus problems before</p>

<p>i brought my Pentax 67 to a camera tech to change my focusing screen...<br>

and now... mby its just a coincidence... what i focus through the view finder is out of focus on the negatives..<br>

mby it was bad and quick focusing from my side, but i never had this before...<br>

can it be that the tech. calibrated something wrong and if so...<br>

would it be possible that the picture is sharp through the viewfinder but not on the negative?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

The Lowel and the Totalite and also the Fovitec sound great, but almost impossible to buy directly in the EU.

are there any Europian alernatives for those kind of lights?

thanks

mostly im excited about the head and the softbox, and to be able to have 5500k continues light inside a softbox.

i have stands at home, and i could eventually buy better light bulbs later

or could this be another 100$ spent i could have invested in something else.

(im based in germany)

as far as i aslo checked, it could be a hassle to return this and get the money back

A shop on ebay is offering this insanely cheap system with lights, softboxes, bulbs, stands...

its a no name brand.. so I'm wondering if anyone has experience with such no name system.

i work mostly with film and polaroids and my old cameras dont have sync, so this continuous light system 5500k might be great..

i love the use of softboxes..

but then again, is so cheap that im having mix feelings.

link:

www.ebay.de/itm/1080W-Fotostudio-Set-2x-50x70cm-Softbox-Studioleuchte-Studiolampe-Tageslicht-DHL/181831425590?

_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33960%26meid%3D14bc4df

01082480f8e9493ad20e21af7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D391236293921

thanks!

<p>hello!<br>

i have a epson v 700 scanner and i wanted to ask what is the best way to clean the glass<br>

until now i did it microfiber cloth and cotton glows and dust blowers, but can i also use a glass cleaner for windows?<br>

just to clean the glass surface?</p>

<p>thanks alot!</p>

<p>(ps. also i notices that the glass somehow became foggy but from the inner side and u can only see it in darkness - when only the inside scanner lights are lighten and only if you look from a special angle)</p>

hello, if i would buy the lens in the link bellow could i take it out of this sinar thingy and mount it into a copal 1 shutter that i have inside a

linhof lensboard?

www.ebay.de/itm/Rodenstock-Sironar-N-5-6-210-mm-MC-in-Sinar-DB-Top-/131578127507?hash=item1ea2aae493

i actually have the same lens at home but the glass of the back part is scratched nasty and i really like this lens.

thanks!

<p>but should one roller roll the other like in the landcameras?<br>

or is it ok that there is a tiny space between the rollers?</p>

<p>thanks alot! i will try!<br>

hopefully this will fix the problem, i actually clean the rollers after every pack but not as precise, just with my shirt.</p>