casey_c

Pressure plate? Would have to punch through the backing paper...

thats what im thinking, i have this same exact camera and the patterns on the film look identical.

Not sure if anyone has seen this yet,

Ilford Photo teases upcoming film stock release in multiple formats

Anyone have any guesses?

My "standard" developing for Rollei 80s (rated at 50asa) is 3ml of Rodinal in 450ml of DI. Semi-stand developing for 30min. 3 min presoak with DI. Constant (but gentle) agitation for 30sec after developer is in the tank. (1) Over n Up inversion @ 2min, 5min, 10min, 20min & out at 30min. Standard processing after that. . .just use a non-acid fixer. I have tried the SPUR developer & it has not shown me anything that the Rodinal lacks. If you want to walk on the wild side, Coffenol also produces some fine results. Aloha, Bill

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the input- I will try this exact method this weekend. Now I need to find a use for this Spur HRX that I purchased. :)

Hi All,

Just wanted to see if anyone has had any good success using this developer. I recently bought some to use with Rollei 80s to 'tone down the contrast' a bit. I understand that you need to rate the film a bit lower when using this developer. It's much different than what I usually use, Rodinal, D76, Microphen, HC-110, and DDX.

Let me know your thoughts!

I've seen some stores only get about 1 quarter of their amounts that they've requested. Either Kodak didn't make enough or, they didn't realize the demand for it.

I was able to get 10 rolls of E100 from thefindlab.

When I worked in a media department some years back we usually bought 6 months or a years worth of supplies in advance including film and paper. We always kept the film frozen and paper in the refrigerator until it was needed. It never lasted long enough to go bad before use. As I'm writing this I have unopened Ilford paper in my freezer.

 

Rick H.

It depends upon the paper size. My 8x10 fits in the "Deli Drawer" of the refrigerator where it is kept both cool and dry (and mostly in the dark). If your paper is 16x20 it probably will not fit in the refrigerator. I usually take it our the night before I print and let it come up to room temperature.

I see a pattern here- I have about 10 packs of 25 sheet ilford paper and a few other 50 packs of ilford paper- all in 8x10. I also have some 11x14. I'll check on Amazon for some thick ziplock bags and toss them in the freezer.

Thank you guys!

Hi Guys,

I recently had to move my darkroom from where it was and store a good portion of it all in plastic containers until I can bring everything out again. My chemistry is fine as I just ran out of Ilford Multigrade, but my paper (around 300 sheets) will be stored until I can use it again. All of it was purchased last July. It'll be stored in a cool, dry area in the containters (hallway closet).

My question is this, How long will these hold up? About 3 boxes are opened, the rest are sealed. These are new, but I've been told that RC paper can only last around 2 years. I'm not sure how long it'll be until I can move into a solid location until then. Any advice would be great- Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse.

well anyone get their back orders yet? lets see those pix already?

I placed a preorder for Kodak P3200 with Cinestill's website on 2/23 and received it on 3/17. I was actually impressed that it arrived that quickly as I was informed that nothing would ship until late March/Mid April. I'll run a roll tonight when I get home from work and post some samples.

Why do you not want to use the colour head?

 

The only drawback is that you may not be able to apply sufficient Magenta density to get a grade 5 paper equivalent. Apart from that, the colour head will act in exactly the same way as discrete filter 'gels', but without the fuss of swapping and changing filters in a drawer.

 

Besides, CP filters aren't meant to be used below the lens. They aren't optical grade and may well reduce the print quality - especially if you handle them carelessly. CC filters are available to use below the lens, but they're expensive, need careful handling and not readily found these days.

 

Just use the colour head and save yourself expense and time. And if you regularly need a printing grade you can't get with the colour head, then you might want to adjust your film processing.

I have tried to use the color head, and while I was given some really good feedback/answers I still couldn't see much of a difference.

I used to use a Durst color head with multigrade.

IIRC

90Y was grade 1/2 (you can't quite get "0").

30Y was grade 1

nothing was 2

40M was 3

70M was 4

130M was 4 1/2 (can't quite make 5).

Durst isn't CC values, although it is close, so don't go copying that over to a head not from Durst.

I've tried using those values from a post I made last year.

Casey

You need to look very carefully at how the adapter attaches to the lens.

I used one (different brand) many years ago in high school. With the adapter on the lens, it was difficult to get our fingers in to turn the aperture ring on the lens. Just a badly designed adapter. We eventually ditched it and just used graded paper.

I would hope that the Ilford adapter is better designed.

 

Worst case, you can probably lay the filters onto the swing arm red filter holder.

Hey Gary, after just purchasing it I was just thinking about how I would be able to adjust the aperture. I'll give it a try and see how much of a tight area it is going to be. Until then, I'm planning on removing the red filter from the lower swing arm and lay the filter on top of it.

Ilford also makes a set of filters that mount with adapter attached to the enlarging lens. I used these for many years with an Omega D2 with Zone VI cold light that no place for VC filters. These are decent optically (unlike some gels).

Woah, that's awesome. I found some. I'll order these and give these a shot. THANK YOU!

With the color head, your only option is to use the swinging filter arm.

Remove the red filter and use the arm as a filter holder.

 

Otherwise, you dial in the VC filtration into the color head.

I'll see if I can pull out the red filter and just lay the filters on top of it. Thank you!

If you have the condenser head, page 10 of your manual.

The filter drawer is on the front of the head.

You will have to cut the filters to fit the drawer.

 

If you have the color head, then there is no filter drawer.

I have the color head version. I'd prefer to use separate filters- but I'm guessing using the color head is the only option.

Hey guys,

I've owned this enlarger for sometime, and I got it brand new in the box with the manuals and all the documents. However, after using it for about 6+ months.. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out where to place the filters. I bought some Ilford filters- not the ones in the carrier, but just the sleeves (if that makes sense). If anyone has experience with this enlarger, any help would be great.

Also, I've searched around on the internet and couldn't find anything. There is no recognizable filter placement on the enlarger- Do people just hold it under the lens?

Are you using the same camera?

Nope. I’m using 3 different cameras with several different lenses.. weird right? I emailed Ferrania (not looking for a refund) but to see if anyone has had a similar issue.

Yes...just used recommended times. HC110 for two rolls...DDX for another.

I’ll give DDX a shot tomorrow. HC110 was a no go. My portraits came out black, but the the background had some detail. Again, this is a common issue I’ve been having with this film.