coronawithlime

Hi all, I recently put the first rolls through a 500cm that I have had for a few years but never used as lens was jammed. Sent it to David Odess in the fall and had the body and 50mm lens serviced. First rolls just back and every image is out of focus. I was fairly careful with focusing, using the magnifier in the hood and rolling in and out of focus to get it as spot on as possible. I was shooting wide open at 3.5 and subject was generally fairly close in the 5-10 foot range. So yes, shallow DOF but no way I missed focus on every shot of four rolls.

 

And in almost all the images I can see that the actual focus was about 1-2 feet behind my intended point, and it looks quite sharp there.

 

And ideas about what might be causing this? I elected not to have the back serviced, so that might be it, although it winds and functions normally. The plate behind the film is springy and evenly so.

 

Thanks in advance for any insight!

This sounds suspiciously like the issue which Mr Odess just corrected for me last month. A 500 cm back focused by about 2 feet consistently with any lens.

On sending Mr Odess the body I specifically mentioned this issue and also advised that the same lenses focused correctly on a different body.

On the service invoice, which was billed at his regular CLA price for labor, he indicated that he had replaced the foam pads regulating mirror position and then adjusted the mirror position. Seems like a couple of other parts were replaced which did not relate to the original complaint.

The camera looks and functions as new.

As an aside, I'm 70 and have significantly less than perfect eyesight. I can't focus the camera with the standard screen configuration, Accute Matt or otherwise. With a split image screen however my hit rate is approaching 100%. It's not beyond the realm of possibility that you are not able to use a standard focusing screen.

It's a pretty tight fit with a film back and I'm not sure it fits with a digital back.

EDIT

Well, never mind. It won't fit. :(

You have to use a 45 degree finder.

I'm assuming that you can no longer use the New Jersey factory service center for V system cameras, as they don't list anything about them on their website.

 

Google led me to a few independent folks who service Hasselblads, but I figured I'd ask here to make sure I'm getting the best. I know that "good" and "fast" can be mutually exclusive, but at the same time I'd also like to minimize the amount of time I'm without my camera.

 

My immediate need is to have my 80mm chrome C serviced-the focus is stiff and the slow speeds are effectively dead. I'd figure that for the initial round of service, I'd send it, my 500C body, and probably my A12 back. I'd then send my other lenses and backs individually as time and budget permitted.

 

So, with that in mind, can anyone recommend someone for service?

I have some more stuff in route back to me from David Odess. He strikes me as a bit high, but delivers excellent service.

As I'm kinda accustomed to doing business with people who are a bit high but deliver crappy service, I'm pretty much ok with that.

He will also do a rush service for a surcharge. I believe you will find that he is highly recommended by all his customers.

Just confirming, did the mirror "not go down" or "go down and go back up."

 

By "change the position of one of the gears" I am guessing you are referring to moving one of the controls on the right side of the camera. If that is the case, which did you move and from what position to what position ?

 

It's also possible it's just a glob of old lubricant sticking stuff up and repeated actuation of the shutter might exercise things enough for it to loosen up.

If you don't have the manual yet, visit http://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad.htm and download it. Read up on the functions of the different control positions.

Nope no good it just clicks, I did change the position of one of the gears and the motor did open and close the rear shutter's

but the mirror did not go down. It's good to know that the motor works.

Just confirming, did the mirror "not go down" or "go down and go back up."

By "change the position of one of the gears" I am guessing you are referring to moving one of the controls on the right side of the camera. If that is the case, which did you move and from what position to what position ?

It's also possible it's just a glob of old lubricant sticking stuff up and repeated actuation of the shutter might exercise things enough for it to loosen up.

Alternatively, it sounds a bit like the body is in what Hasselblad calls prerelease. Which is sorta kinda like locking the mirror up on a 35mm. Looking into the front of the body the indicator will not be lined up with the red dot, but rather will be a bit clockwise past it. It may appear that it has fired, but it's in prerelease.

If the AS A 0 S RS switch was moved to the S position, it is spring loaded to return immediately to the 0 position. This puts the body in prerelease and you would not know from the outside. Inserting a good battery and pressing the shutter release should complete the cycle.

Check the fuse.

I'm betting on a weak battery.

You are in a better situation since you don't have a lens installed.

 

A weak battery will cause EXACTLY the condition you describe. Address that first of all.

 

The L O T switch on the motor drive portion should be in the O position. The other switch should be in the 0 position. If not try to move them.

 

In the DIN plug on the right side you can short pins 1 and 3 and it should fire the shutter if the battery has sufficient charge.

 

I'm betting on a weak battery.

You are in a better situation since you don't have a lens installed.

A weak battery will cause EXACTLY the condition you describe. Address that first of all.

The L O T switch on the motor drive portion should be in the O position. The other switch should be in the 0 position. If not try to move them.

In the DIN plug on the right side you can short pins 1 and 3 and it should fire the shutter if the battery has sufficient charge.

I'm betting on a weak battery.

Hi all,

Well I found one of these on ebay yesterday and the seller dropped it another $25.00 and I went for it.

So I know it takes batteries but between a 9 volt or other adapter's that use other batteries which ones work best.

I already have a 500CM with a 80mm CF and 2 backs 12 and 24, and a acute matte screen so I'm ready for this

beast!. Any thing to watch out for, any tips?

 

Thanks

I have a 500 ELX and several battery solutions. I have some original Varta batteries, one of the adapters that uses a 6v Li cell, and one that uses a 9v transistor radio battery. I can't tell 10 cents worth of difference in the function of any of them.

The 6v Li adapter appears the most elegant solution, but does not control the battery movement within the adapter well. The camera stopped operating yesterday and I thought the battery was depleted. I removed it and moved the battery inside the adapter a bit and it's working fine again.

The 9V solution strikes me as being the most utilitarian in view of the easy availability of replacement batteries.

If the battery dies while you are using the camera, you may end up with the film partially advanced, the mirror stuck in the up position, some other half finished operation, or all of the above. Replace the depleted battery with a fresh one and the camera will complete whatever it was previously doing. DO NOT try to remove the lens first, just replace the battery.

Put some spare fuses in the slots provided. Don't worry about the special old stock Hasselblad fuses you sometimes see on eBay at $9 each. Generic SloBlo fuses at 5 for $4 are fine.

I prefer a split image screen, but your vision is likely better so you may not care. In any case, the low cost asian knockoffs have mixed reviews.

If you're looking at screens, it appears to be common for somebody to have purchased an upgrade screen and stored the standard screen in the upgrade box. Years later the standard screen in the upgrade box shows up on eBay with the seller claiming, knowingly or not, that it is the screen marked on the box. Research.

These dudes are heavy. Get the widest strap you can find.

THE VERY MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT HASSELBLADS:

Research on the internet about installing/removing the lenses. The body and lens BOTH have to be cocked in order to remove/install lenses. Doing otherwise risks causing a mechanical jam and difficulty completing the operation. Might even require a repair if you had been sufficiently heavy handed.

If you buy an extension tube, research how to remove/install it. There is a specific order to do things.

Store everything in the cocked condition.

I rather like the extended focusing handles.

I recently acquired a modestly priced screen described as a 190531 Hasselblad Dot Grid Focus Screen With Central Microprism for my 500 ELX. I had rather expected the microprism to resemble the one surrounding the split image portion on my other screens.

However, it seems to be much much finer. The microprisms on my other screen are much more obvious, larger, brighter, and snap into and out of focus much more noticeably. It appears to be composed of many very fine dots rather than what I am accustomed to thing of as a micro prism.

As many of these things tend to be mislabeled, I'm wondering if it is actually something other than what was listed.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I'm having a similar issue with my 553 ELX and posted what I'm experiencing in another EL/M thread here: 500 EL/M won't fire with pressing of release button

 

If anyone is still following this thread and has any advice on how I might fix this, I'd be greatly appreciative.

 

Thank you in advance.

The previous suggestions strike me as being sound. What was the result when you tried them?

I apologize for posting so many Hasselblad questions over the past few days, but I really feel like I'm in a different world even though I've had 120 SLRs for years. I'll also say that, coming from Bronicas and Mamiyas, the aftermarket cost of some Hasselblad stuff is eye popping.

 

In any case, all my lenses are the earliest C Chrome lenses. Per the date codes, they range from 1961 to 1964.

 

My 80mm focus ring is stiff. It's not terrible and is smooth, but the sharp flutes can make it uncomfortable to focus. I had a rapid focus handle for my S2A and liked it, so I'd like to find one for my 80mm(and possibly also my 50mm).

 

My problem is that when I go hunting for one, it seems a bit daunting to find the specific one needed for a chrome 80mm. Can anyone point me to the part number for this?

 

Also, once again I'm finding that most Bay 50 filters are Hasselblad branded, and equally expensive. My 50mm, fortunately, uses Series VIII filters. I also have an adapter-not sure if it's home made or not, but it's well executed and nicely parallel-that goes from Bay 50 to Series VIII. I've done done it intentionally, but have picked up a few Series VIIIs over the years from the 72mm drawer at the local camera shop. Considering that basically no one cares about series filters anymore, I think the shop where I bought the camera will more or less give me all I want.

 

With that said, I'm wondering about a polarizer. Should I just break down and buy a Hassy Bay 50 polarizer, or are there good quality Series VIII polarizers available? Also, please forgive the probably stupid question, but how easy are series Polarizers easy to manipulate? It seems that it would be a constant battle to get them turned correctly, and then risk moving them when you tighten the retaining ring.

As a new Hasselblad user myself (and frequent question asker :) ), I've done quite a bit of research lately, and also wanted one of the focusing handles for a 50mm C Distagon.

There appear to be two versions called, reasonably enough #1 and #2 :). I needed a #1, which I believe is appropriate for lenses through the 80mm, with the #2 for the 150 and 250. I think :). There's several open eBay right now ranging in price from $29 to $139.

Thanks. Is there an easy/economical way to fix or replace the hooks?

The part is available on eBay at a reasonable price, but it requires a bit of tear down to install.

Hi all,

 

I purchased my first Hasselblad, a 500 EL/M, recently along with two separate A12 backs. I think the film backs are not mating properly with the camera for the following reasons:

 

 

 

 

1) Once the back is loaded and locked to the camera, I am able to remove the backs with just a little bit of pressure without moving the knob on top.

2) With the back locked to the camera and the dark slide removed, I am still able to move the knob that removes the back from the camera. I believe this should not be possible with the dark slide removed.

 

I have seen a significant amount of light leak in my photos. Initially I thought I need to replace the light trap in the backs, but the light leaks are on the left side, bottom and the right side of the photos. This tells me the issue it not likely due to the light trap.

 

Any suggestions on how I can go about fixing it? Since it is happening with two separate backs, could it be a problem with the camera mechanism that locks to the backs?

 

Thanks!

My immediate thought is wear to the locking hooks at the top of the body.

"Is there a digital back I can mount on the Bronica SQa?"

Not with a native mount. Couple of adapters are available. The only one I have personally seen is for the Hasselblad V system digital backs, but I am pretty sure there is at least one other.

They are still around and run in the $700 to $1000 USD range for the ADAPTER ONLY. When you can get a pretty good SQa for under $200, that may not be a good solution.

" One that would give the the full 6x6 frame size......"

Not available.

"I ........ would like it with a digital back using the full capability of the camera, if possible."

It is not.