coronawithlime

This is on a 203 body with the factory modification performed last week. The files stored on the card will display a thumbnail correctly but the actual raw image shows a black frame. This occurs with Phocus and Photoshop CC both. Any thoughts.

This sounds suspiciously like the issue which Mr Odess just corrected for me last month. A 500 cm back focused by about 2 feet consistently with any lens. On sending Mr Odess the body I specifically mentioned this issue and also advised that the same lenses focused correctly on a different body. On the service invoice, which was billed at his regular CLA price for labor, he indicated that he had replaced the foam pads regulating mirror position and then adjusted the mirror position. Seems like a couple of other parts were replaced which did not relate to the original complaint. The camera looks and functions as new. As an aside, I'm 70 and have significantly less than perfect eyesight. I can't focus the camera with the standard screen configuration, Accute Matt or otherwise. With a split image screen however my hit rate is approaching 100%. It's not beyond the realm of possibility that you are not able to use a standard focusing screen.

I'm assuming you want something that doesn't require tethering to a computer, so something like Phase One P45 perhaps. Check eBay, this site doesn't allow me to post a link directly.

It's a pretty tight fit with a film back and I'm not sure it fits with a digital back. EDIT Well, never mind. It won't fit. :( You have to use a 45 degree finder.

I have some more stuff in route back to me from David Odess. He strikes me as a bit high, but delivers excellent service. As I'm kinda accustomed to doing business with people who are a bit high but deliver crappy service, I'm pretty much ok with that. He will also do a rush service for a surcharge. I believe you will find that he is highly recommended by all his customers.

If you don't have the manual yet, visit http://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad.htm and download it. Read up on the functions of the different control positions.

Just confirming, did the mirror "not go down" or "go down and go back up." By "change the position of one of the gears" I am guessing you are referring to moving one of the controls on the right side of the camera. If that is the case, which did you move and from what position to what position ? It's also possible it's just a glob of old lubricant sticking stuff up and repeated actuation of the shutter might exercise things enough for it to loosen up.

Alternatively, it sounds a bit like the body is in what Hasselblad calls prerelease. Which is sorta kinda like locking the mirror up on a 35mm. Looking into the front of the body the indicator will not be lined up with the red dot, but rather will be a bit clockwise past it. It may appear that it has fired, but it's in prerelease. If the AS A 0 S RS switch was moved to the S position, it is spring loaded to return immediately to the 0 position. This puts the body in prerelease and you would not know from the outside. Inserting a good battery and pressing the shutter release should complete the cycle. Check the fuse. I'm betting on a weak battery.

You are in a better situation since you don't have a lens installed. A weak battery will cause EXACTLY the condition you describe. Address that first of all. The L O T switch on the motor drive portion should be in the O position. The other switch should be in the 0 position. If not try to move them. In the DIN plug on the right side you can short pins 1 and 3 and it should fire the shutter if the battery has sufficient charge. I'm betting on a weak battery.

I have a 500 ELX and several battery solutions. I have some original Varta batteries, one of the adapters that uses a 6v Li cell, and one that uses a 9v transistor radio battery. I can't tell 10 cents worth of difference in the function of any of them. The 6v Li adapter appears the most elegant solution, but does not control the battery movement within the adapter well. The camera stopped operating yesterday and I thought the battery was depleted. I removed it and moved the battery inside the adapter a bit and it's working fine again. The 9V solution strikes me as being the most utilitarian in view of the easy availability of replacement batteries. If the battery dies while you are using the camera, you may end up with the film partially advanced, the mirror stuck in the up position, some other half finished operation, or all of the above. Replace the depleted battery with a fresh one and the camera will complete whatever it was previously doing. DO NOT try to remove the lens first, just replace the battery. Put some spare fuses in the slots provided. Don't worry about the special old stock Hasselblad fuses you sometimes see on eBay at $9 each. Generic SloBlo fuses at 5 for $4 are fine. I prefer a split image screen, but your vision is likely better so you may not care. In any case, the low cost asian knockoffs have mixed reviews. If you're looking at screens, it appears to be common for somebody to have purchased an upgrade screen and stored the standard screen in the upgrade box. Years later the standard screen in the upgrade box shows up on eBay with the seller claiming, knowingly or not, that it is the screen marked on the box. Research. These dudes are heavy. Get the widest strap you can find. THE VERY MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT HASSELBLADS: Research on the internet about installing/removing the lenses. The body and lens BOTH have to be cocked in order to remove/install lenses. Doing otherwise risks causing a mechanical jam and difficulty completing the operation. Might even require a repair if you had been sufficiently heavy handed. If you buy an extension tube, research how to remove/install it. There is a specific order to do things. Store everything in the cocked condition. I rather like the extended focusing handles.

I think this was probably user error on my part. The screen seems to be MUCH more sensitive to eye position than I had expected, and that combined with the gray overcast day I first tried it out made it seem worse than it actually is. Testing again in bright daylight and with a different finder and it works fine. Thanx for replying gentlemen.

I recently acquired a modestly priced screen described as a 190531 Hasselblad Dot Grid Focus Screen With Central Microprism for my 500 ELX. I had rather expected the microprism to resemble the one surrounding the split image portion on my other screens. However, it seems to be much much finer. The microprisms on my other screen are much more obvious, larger, brighter, and snap into and out of focus much more noticeably. It appears to be composed of many very fine dots rather than what I am accustomed to thing of as a micro prism. As many of these things tend to be mislabeled, I'm wondering if it is actually something other than what was listed. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The previous suggestions strike me as being sound. What was the result when you tried them?

As a new Hasselblad user myself (and frequent question asker :) ), I've done quite a bit of research lately, and also wanted one of the focusing handles for a 50mm C Distagon. There appear to be two versions called, reasonably enough #1 and #2 :). I needed a #1, which I believe is appropriate for lenses through the 80mm, with the #2 for the 150 and 250. I think :). There's several open eBay right now ranging in price from $29 to $139.

The part is available on eBay at a reasonable price, but it requires a bit of tear down to install.

My immediate thought is wear to the locking hooks at the top of the body.

As I'm looking at one of these backs myself, I'm interested to know if you have had any other experiences with yours.

"Is there a digital back I can mount on the Bronica SQa?" Not with a native mount. Couple of adapters are available. The only one I have personally seen is for the Hasselblad V system digital backs, but I am pretty sure there is at least one other. They are still around and run in the $700 to $1000 USD range for the ADAPTER ONLY. When you can get a pretty good SQa for under $200, that may not be a good solution. " One that would give the the full 6x6 frame size......" Not available. "I ........ would like it with a digital back using the full capability of the camera, if possible." It is not.