dominique_r

<p>Tests done, the whole thing works a charm :<br> . Press the Test button (and keep it pressed) for the lens to autofocus (if not needed, this can of course be disabled on the lens and/or camera body), and<br> . Release the Test button for the shutter and flash to fire simultaneously in whatever mode (TTL or other) you set the TX on the camera.<br> With my second YN-622N, I can fire another flash if needed. However, I think I have one YN-622N TX too many, so I will most likely end up reselling it.<br> I hope my account helps.</p>

<p>OK guys, so, first update: I realized before I purchased it that the Yongnuo YN-622N (the last "N" means "for Nikon", there is also a "C" version for Canon) are only flash triggers, not shutter triggers as I first thought. However, all hope was not lost, as Yongnuo also have another model, which is called YN-622 TX, and the "TX" (as in "transmitter") makes all the difference: not only this latest model has a nice LCD screen via which it is very easy to adjust all flash parameters for 3 different groups, but it also sports a socket on one side for a cable that goes, at the other end, into the 10-pin connector on the Nikon body.<br /><br />And (I checked before I ordered), this TX model does indeed do shutter trigger.<br /><br />So, I bought two... but while I thought I was buying two <strong>sets</strong> (read: pairs) of thingies (one to put on the camera's hotshoe, one to place under the flash gun), I was actually only buying two <strong>units</strong> of the YN-622 TX... OK, well, that's a start, and those two should allow me to verify the capability to trigger the shutter, right? Right. So, I set them both to the same channel, attach one to the camera, plug the connector into the 10-pin socket, and try to fire the shutter with the second.<br /><br />Nothing happens.<br /><br />I check, double-check, everything is in order. Except it doesn't work.<br /><br />So, it's back to Google to try and understand why. I also fire off an email message to Yongnuo customer service, they promise to answer within 3 business days but they never will. Or rather, to be truthful, 10 days later, they haven't yet. However, I found online a very useful review by David New (here: http://davidnew.net/site/2014/02/06/yongnuo-yn-622n-tx-wireless-flash-controller-for-nikon-dslrs/) of the YN-622N TX that explains clearly that the proper way to do it is to use, not another YN-622N TX to trigger the shutter, as I had thought, but a simple YN-622N!<br /><br />Therefore, I went back to eBay and promptly ordered two: one to use with the flash (the TX version, you will remember, has not hot shoe), and the other to (hopefully) trigger the whole thing, i.e., the shutter <strong>and</strong> the flash at the same time.<br /><br />I soon received the two YN-622N units, and yesterday evening I did a very quick and dirty test on the D810 with the Nikkor 24/1.4 mounted, and <em><strong>it works!</strong></em> First of all, the YN-622Ns look like Christmas trees with all their flashing red and green lights, and that's a nice thing, in the spirit of the season. More importantly, I verified repeatedly that the "Test" button on the YN-622N, when pressed, activates the autofocus on the lens, and when released, fires the shutter.<br /><br />OK, so I got myself a shutter release that works. Yes, I know I already had one (a great Phottix Aion), but with the Yongnuo, there's the hope of (as I said) triggering both the shutter and the flash at the same time.<br /><br />I will try that as soon as I have a chance and keep you updated.</p>

<p>Well, I thought, what the heck...! 75 euros for 2 sets (that's 4 transmitters/receivers) of Yongnuo YN622 for Nikon, delivered in 3 days, can't go wrong with that... I'll see if they work as expected and let you guys know.</p>

<p>Hey! I just found out in this Youtube video ( ) that Yongnuo RF603 triggers can (provided you own 3 units) be used as I need: one on the flash, one on the camera, and the third one in hand, to set off both camera and flash...<br> I wonder if this applies to the Yongnuo YN-622... Would anyone know? Or would anyone have actually used them that way?</p>

<p>OK, I'm beginning to see the light... I already have a camera radio trigger, a Phottix Aion. So, I attach the receiver of the Phottix Aion to the 10_pin connector on the Nikon body, but I do <em><strong>not</strong></em> slide the receiver's cold shoe into the camera's hot shoe. Instead, I insert the flash trigger transmitter (let's say, a Yongnuo, for discussion's sake) in the camera's hot shoe, and finally attach the flash trigger receiver to the flash unit atop my monopod or light pole.<br> <br />And so, when I press the button on the Aion, it triggers the camera, and the camera then automatically sends to the flash the order to fire, via the Yongnuo transmitter and receiver. One button to press for me, two simultaneous actions: shutter actuated, and flash triggered.<br> Am I right?</p>

<p>Ellis, thank you very much.<br> <br />However, unless I'm mistaken, the Plus III does not have a hotshoe, and the Multimax is limited to manual mode, as you said, therefore no option to go TTL if desired at some point, right?</p>

<p>Hi Tom,<br> Yes, your setup does sound nearly identical to what I have in mind, but let me ask you (and the others, of course) two things:<br> 1. What do I do to have a transmitter/trigger <em><strong>in hand?</strong></em> Remember, one receiver thingy on the camera, and one screwed between the top of the monopod/pole or whatever, and the flash, maybe a couple meters up there in the air, so there is no way I can reach any button on the second receiver thingy... In your case, you triggered from the camera, which was within reach, but I won't have that option as I operate alone, most times.<br> 2. I know Pocketwizards are good and reliable, however they are a bit expensive, and having just forked out the cash for a Carl Zeiss UWA, I was rather looking at something like the Phottix Odin line. Would those be able to replace the Pocketwizards?</p>

Hi guys, Here's my situation: in architecture photography, to properly light a darkish building (say, an 11th century chapel), I intend to set up the camera on a tripod and walk around with an SB-910 attached to a monopod and angle it so that the flash illuminates the parts of the building I intend to light. I have a transmitter in hand, and every time I press a button, the flash goes off as the camera takes a picture. The various photos are thereafter composited in Photoshop, a bit like some people do for real estate/interior design photo. My question is: what would be the best trigger/radio equipment to achieve this, bearing in mind I will not always have line of sight and the radio path may be obstructed by, say, large stone pillars. Thanks very much in advance for your tips.

<p>All mirrorless will suffer under "sort-of-harsh" backpacking/trekking treatment. Among the bodies you listed, the most robust is the Nikon D300. Get a couple of prime lenses to go with it, according to your photo choices.<br> I'd love to recommend the X Pro 1 but, owning two of those, I wouldn't take them on any prolonged trek.</p>

<p>Hello Edward,<br> <br />I had a look at your Speed Demon V2, and from my point of view:<br> <br />(1) It looks unmistakably like a photo bag<br> (2) Its default carrying mode appears to be over the shoulder, and if so I'd rather have the Billingham, which is a lot more elegant<br> (3) The "around-the-waist" carrying mode looks quite ridiculous, IMHO<br> (4) There doesn't seem to be any real additional space available in the bag once the gear is stowed<br> <br />I have been shooting in Turkey for three weeks now, both in easy and rather difficult conditions, using my leather Eastpak (which begins to look nicely worn and "lived-in" by now) and I'm absolutely happy with my choice. I carry it over the shoulders, or over just one shoulder, either towards my back or towards my front for easier access to what's inside. There is space for one or two small bottles of water (indispensable here), Kindle, road map, guidebook, tickets, it seems to be able to hold whatever I throw at it, the limit being, of course, the weight I am willing to carry.<br> I've had no incident with the lenses nor the Sekonic meter, all snugly carried within their individual soft leather pouches, and if needed the body goes into its separate front pocket (it also fits easily inside the main pocket, even with any lens attached, and with lots of room to spare).</p>

<p>Thank you for your kind comment, which I'm sure will be seen as having a lot of added value in spite of what could easily pass for a demonstration in obviousness. Because, surely, what you so aptly underline applies to just any bag, right? I.e., the moment the camera is out of it, it is seen. Well, that's cleverly deduced, and let me reassure you, I did not think my little Eastpak would double as an invisibility cloak. However, as long as the camera is inside, it certainly draws a lot less attention that a classic camera bag.<br> And as regards the snob aspect of things, I'm afraid you didn't catch it, really, but that's all right. It bears being explained if it has to. You see, the thing is, the bag will not be babied at all, it will be treated just like any basic bag, therefore it will soon acquire that nice patina that well lived-in houses or Weston loafers or tweed jackets can exhibit, and in a year or so maybe, it will be virtually indistinguishable from its less privileged siblings.<br> We'll see how it fares in Turkey, but I have high hopes. And of course, regardless of the bag's material, my findings remain the same and I share them for what they're worth, as my personal experience.</p>

<p>For my large DSLR gear, I've been using a large Kiboko by GuraGear. It's great, it's light, it keeps safe two pro bodies and my coollection of bulky and heavy lenses, including a Nikkor 200-400/4.<br> <br />However, that it is... well, heavy and big. Last year, I acquired a mirrorless Fuji X Pro 1 which I now use with 4 lenses: 14/2.8 (the 18/2 I now leave behind), 35/1.4, 56/1/2 and 55-200 zoom. I won't discuss the gear's merits as this is not the place (it's a great alternative to DSLRs, though), but the thing is, I have been looking around in vain for a good photo bag for that light, not very bulky kit. Unsuccessfully. Until recently.<br> It's not a Billingham, but a Billingham did help.<br> <br />Last month, after an unfortunate short stint with a small Kiboko (Bataflae they call them now, rather ridiculously I think), and convinced by the amount of praise Billinghams get on the internet, I decided to buy the Hadley Pro. Gorgeous and beautifully made, down to the smallest detail. Everything people say on the subject is true. y wife had told me, though, after years of female purse experience, that carrying on a shoulder isn't the most comfortable option --and she was right. The Billingham was less comfortable than a backpack of equivalent weight would have been. It was also difficult to open and close, and although it contained my Fuji kit and my Sekonic 758 (and a Kindle in the back pocket), it didn't have much space for anything else: no small bottle of water, no windbreaker, no nothing. Having put it to the test during two weekend trips, I decided to put it back into the closet, awaiting its fate. Gorgeous piece, though.<br> The Billingham adventure made me go back to basics. I needed a bag that did not, if possible, look too much like a photo bag, therefore no Lowepro, no Crumpler, no ThinkTank. I wanted my Fuji gear to be stored and easily accessible, but with additional space if needed. It had to be a backpack, too. I went on thinking... and then one of the kids walked in and threw his battered Eastpak in a corner.<br> The proverbial lightbulb lit inside my head. Eastpak? I bought one, but as I'm a bit of a snob, I got a leather Padded Pak'r, in light brown ("Antique Brown", they call it, I think). It's great quality, looks good, very soft and supple, smells like the interior of a new car, doesn't scream "photo bag, steal me!". Lots of room inside (24 liter capacity), even space for a 15" notebook, can be worn on the back but also on a shoulder and even on the tummy for super-easy access to anything that's inside. OK, it's not padded... but haven't I got those great soft leather pouches from China, that come in all sorts of sizes? The lenses will be snug as bugs in a rug inside those, and quite well protected except maybe if the bag falls from a table or something... I'll just have to be a little careful, and I think I can manage that.<br> All in all, for some 180 euros (about the price of thge Hafdley Pro, and much less than the Bataflae), I have a roomy, well-constructed, good-looking photo bag that will also accommodate my sandwich lunch if need be. I'm taking it to Turkey for 3 weeks, so we'll see how it behaves in real life. But right now, it looks very convincingly like a winning proposition...</p>