andy_buck

I would be happy with a document scanner. I can make do with scanning contact prints of the 14" negs. As I said, these scans aren't destined for making high quality enlarged digital prints, just web stuff and repro prints for newspaper & magazine exhibition promos. So, what's anybody suggest for a legal document scanner? Or do they fallout of the realm of interest of anybody reading this topic?

Contact Tony Sansone at gmhsint@cox.net. He knows 'everything'!

Roger (and everyone) -

 

I will correct my previous idiocy:

 

This image

 

http://www.fatali.com/giftstore/posters/pos_beyond.html

 

certainly does "seem" to be a double exposure. It's not afterglow, obviously, because of the light on the rocks! Duh! However, the difference between the angle of the light on the rocks and the moon is perplexing. But, as someone else mentioned, who cares? I don't really like his work anyway. It's mostly trite, calendar/poster work. And that is just one man's opionion...

Roger (and everyone) -

 

This image

 

http://www.fatali.com/giftstore/posters/pos_beyond.html

 

certainly does "seem" to be a double exposure. Afterall, how can there be afterglow coming up while the moon is lit from slightly above the side, i.e. more than 90 degrees different? Two suns? <g> But who knows...

I saw a short interview with Lee about 5 years ago. He said after decades of using plus-x, he had switched to fp4 about the same time he switched to a blad swc. I don't remember him mentioning the developer.

Wayne -

 

What size/format camera are/have you made? You could use the 645 numbers (1-16) on 120 to do 6x14 (3 frames each and loose a little film) or 6x18, 4 frames each. Ditto on the above about 220 or 70mm. I have a custom made 6x13 back that uses 70mm film, winding 2 6x7 frames per image. The frame spacing could easily handle 6x14, but the rollers are too close together.

I don't think I've ever shot TX 120 at 400, except maybe the first roll some 30 years ago. I usually shoot it at 50-100 ISO and develop in d-76 1-1 6-6.5 minutes (after a 1 minute water presoak). Beautiful! I've wasted far too much time trying other film and developer combos. The only one that - to me!!! - surpasses it tonally is Polaroid 55 p/n.

Several years ago, I read about a lab that burned down. Everything that was in their refrigerator survived. So, as someone suggested, buy a small chest type freezer (about $200) and keep them in it. You don't even have to plug it in.

Some wonderful, expensive ones are made by Horseman, Silvestri (available from Bromwell - http://www.bromwellmarketing.com/) and Alpa (www.alpa.ch). If you decide to go with a Mamiya Press, get a Universal and definitely buy from http://members.cox.net/gmhsint/. Tony refurbishes the equipment to factory specs. There's lots of photos of the Mamiyas on http://digilander.libero.it/clabo/mamiya/. Also, there's a Mamiya Press section on this bbs.

Eugene -

 

Sorry to all for the multiple notes. I forgot to say that the reason I'm askling about TX in DD-X, vs Ilford films, is that I have 15 exposed rolls of TX!

 

Andy

Eugene -

 

No, it's a custom 'lab' (1 guy, 2 assistants) pecializing in b&w fiber printing. I have thought of trying hp5 because it comes in 220 (I may pick up a Linhof 6x12 holder). I'm using TX, iso 400, not TXP, iso 320, which has better midtone separation than TXP, and supposedly is very similar to hp5. Thanks for the microphen relationship info, too.

 

Thanks

Thanks, all! Yes, he'll do any time I want, so I'll just apply my usual % reduction plus, based on dave t's comment, a little more. My other option is T-Max developer, but I've never heard anything good about it, even with T-Max films, which aren't my "cuppa."

I've seen such a camera, but can't seem to find any info on it. It

had a lens in the 90-105 range, hopefully a Tessar, not a Novar. Can

anybody direct me somewhere for info?

 

Thanks!

for what hand held images look like with the 90, buy a copy of Along the Ohio by Andrew Borowiec. Beautiful images, wonderfully sharp and clear, all shot with TX at 100 or 200, and almost all hand held.

can someone post the urls for poon and genesis?

 

thanks!

Thanks! (I think...<s>)

btw: I used to use D-76 1-1.

John Davies (http://www.daviesphoto.demon.co.uk/) uses APX-100 at ISO 80 and develops in ID-11 1-3. The tonal response his images have (in his books, anyway) is beautiful. You can sort of get the idea on his website, but not really.

My new film processor (please let's not start a discussion of why

someone else develops my film or why I switched!) uses Ilford DD-X. I

usually over expose TX 120 2 stops and under develop. (No, my prints

are not flat.) How would anybody characterize TX in DD-X, tonally,

grain wise, etc?

 

Thanks.

Andy

John Davies uses APX 100 and gets glorious results. Check his website (http://www.daviesphoto.demon.co.uk/) and click on Technical Notes.

I recently bought enough b&w film of 1 format to last several years.

(It was a custom order.) I'd like to freeze what I won't use for a

while. It did not come sealed in air tight packages, but just wrapped

in black paper like photo paper comes. Since I live in humid new

england, would 2-3 days in a/c before double freezer bagging it (one

taped at the the zip lock) be good enough to insure against frost or

freezer burn?

 

Any other suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Andy

I can't help you with an answer. Sorry! However, hauling a 12x20 up to

machu picchu I think may be a greater burden than anything else, but I

am envious of the opportunity to try! I hope you succeed! btw, where

are you located when not traveling? I'd love to see the results!

I had this problem years ago. I tried both less and more agitation and

could never get it right. My solution: I found someone who *could*

develop 120 film evenly and paid them to develop mine. That was 30

years ago and I've never developed a roll since. (Developing film has

to be one of the most boring things around, anyway!) Seeing that

you're in a university, I'll bet there's a photo program where you

could find someone. I currently use a guy who is a professional

photographer, but does lab work for a few studios, including 100's of

rolls per month - beats me why he does it! Check the yellow pages and

ask around, too, maybe at your local photo store. You probably won't

have trouble finding someone who will do whatever

developer/time/whatever you want.

Nick -

 

<p>

 

You're obviously a college professor: too much analysis!

Zen approach: don't think, do!

Agreed: forget Homage!

Finally, to paraphrase Ellington: "if it looks good, it is good."

The following website has just about any lens formula you could need:

 

<p>

 

http://WWW.graflex.org/lenses/lens-faq.html