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lutz

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Posts posted by lutz

  1. Winfried, I slightly disagree with the conclusions that you draw from what you are saying. You're right in that "flashing" (by either an extra exposure while pre-flashing or by stray light like in elder design lenses) will just uniformly add light to the exposure but not shine any of it into the scene...! ;-) But by overall adding y amount of light to the x amount of light coming from any detail (be that in the highlights or be that in the shadows) the effect will be quite different for highlights and shadows. While highlights will barely be affected, given the relatively tiny amount of extra exposure added on top of the strong original exposure, in the shadows that extra y of light might be just the decisive amount to trigger exposure in the emulsion. So that while x light contained in shadow detail might have been to feeble to expose film, x+y may be just sufficient and therefore lead to such detail becoming visible instead of not getting recorded.
  2. <i>"I agree it would be pretty darn rare that anyone would actually choose to do this in practice."</i><p>

    It has also been common practice with newsreel cameramen shooting reversible ("slide") stock. Plus, on the other end of the analog processing chain, before Multigrade I used to pre-flash b&w paper in the darkroom to better bring out detail in the highlights. As far as overall advantage/disadvantage of pre-flashing goes, it all depends on whether you expect the result to be perfect out of the box (straight from the slide/neg) or if you allow for tweaking in the post processing. By allowing for the latter results will certainly improve.

  3. Why would you want to study photography in France if you don't read French? While I cannot comment on the quality of courses at the ENSP in Arles, I can wholeheartedly recommend going to Arles in summer and attend one or more classes organized in collaboration between the ENSP and the Rencontres de la Photographie which take place every July/August. Full immersion into exhibitions and practice with a wide choice of most inspiring teachers. I attended courses for three summers in a row. Here's a <a href="http://www.stagephoto-arles.com/">link</a>. Get in touch with Fabrice there. He's a graduate of the ENSP, BTW.
  4. Bill, what you're looking at (large version) is a 89.96 KB RGB JPEG of a duo- or tritone, the equivalent of an approximately 50 KB Grayscale JPEG. Hence, whatever noise you are disgusted by cannot be but JPEG artefacts, not grain. Look at the difference in noise between the unstructured wall and the girl's features/dress, due to compression algorythms. Don't be fooled into judging resolution/grain issues based on web images.
  5. Well, good if we could be helpful, Stephanie... :-) But for future reference I would like to humbly question Matt's as well as Jonathan's posts. Which "printing styles" (plural) are you referring to, Matt? The darkroom toning techniques - or the hand-coloring? The former I already mentioned as originally analog, the latter can hardly be regarded as a printing style. It's a mixed media approach, rather, not a photographic technique. Oil on canvas was around before photography, for that matter... Cheers.
  6. Hi Stephanie, as far as I am aware "color accented" describes the use of just one color/hue within an otherwise black and white image (say, red lips, blue eyes, green grass, etc.), an effect that you will achieve digitally only. Monochrome describes the use of one color/hue over the entire picture, with each shade of gray translated to an accordingly light or dark shade of the chosen color. This effect can be obtained digitally as well as with darkroom toning techniques of b&w prints. Besides that, duotones (or tri-, quadtones, etc.) are often considered monochrome as well, although this is not 100% correct. A duotone will cover the whole range from white to black but with the grays in between translated to a mix of black and color "ink". Duotones nicely mimic the look of vintage b&w prints. Cheers.
  7. <i>To me, this is Leicas main attraction, the ability to shoot great photos at 1/15 of a second wide open.</i><p>

    Well, Sanford, that's their USP and you won't get it with any contraption/adapter, anyway. R-glass on an EOS might get you close... But as far as framing and focus separation is concerned, a fast 50mm lens is the best bet. BTW, I do like your picture, you might just want to crop it a bit more and make it lighter to make it more readable. I discovered that cat only at second glance. Cheers<div>00OhEV-42133284.jpg.764c5459ebef4685215528ff7cbfd636.jpg</div>

  8. Albert, as far as your use of "perspective" goes, I humbly disagree. Perspective is solely dependent on where the focal point of the lens is placed. If you don't move the camera, "perspective" is nailed, no matter which focal length you are using (with a zoom lens the focal point may be a bit more to the front in respect to the camera body as with fixed focal lenses, though). Thus, if you set up a tripod shot and shoot one frame with a 75mm on a full frame sensor/emulsion and another with a 50mm on a 1.5x crop factor chip, you should get not only the very same perspective in both shots, but also an approximately similar crop.<p>

    What _will_ be different is the DOF (unless compensated according to the above). Plus, the rendition of OOF areas as opposed to areas within the DOF will largely depend on lens design, even among lenses of the same focal length, used for the same format.<p>Anyway, I'm open to be proven wrong. Please post your samples.

  9. Hmm, as far as the exact amount of f-stop difference is concerned, I stand corrected. The above mentioned DOF calculator operates with distinct circles of confusion (0.03 for the full frame vs. 0.019mm for the APS sensor)... Hence, it's more likely that the aperture has to be opened by 2 stops, rather, to achieve a similar DOF with a 50mm lens on a small sensor.
  10. Thanks Vivek and Albert. <p>As for the DOF issue, I humbly disagree. Have a look at <a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html">this DOF calculator</a>. Basically, the DOF is very similar between a 75mm lens on a full frame sensor (enter: Canon 5D) and a 50mm lens on a 1.6x crop sensor (enter: Canon D40) - *IF* you open the 50mm by one stop (compare f2 on the latter at both, 3ft and 10.5 ft distance, with f2.8 on the former). So, you should be able to mimic not only the perspective but also the shallow DOF of the 75 if you can afford to open the aperture by one more stop. You will, of course, not be able to mimic the f1.4 of the 75, but in none of my above pics the aperture was wider than, say, f2.4.<p>

    When it comes to the other properties of the Summilux 75, however (dare I humbly mention the word "bokeh" in this context...?), you will be hard pressed to come up with another lens capable of imitating it's unique qualities.

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