lumusphoto

<p>Tripod, camera with full manual control, self timer or cable release, lens, wide aperture, high iso, long shutter speed oh and shoot in raw :) </p>

<p>Most people do not go to this anal level of testing - even us shooting everyday for a living. We want real world results as time is money to me whole point of the progress of a lens such as the 16-35 f4 is to spend less time in front of a computer and to maximize results in the field. I understand the need for this level of testing but there also needs to be some real world results for people using this equipment day in day out and relying on it to produce the result which will inevitably put food on the table.<br>

I do however appreciate what you guys are saying and understand the need for vigorous robust testing.</p>

<p>I'm looking forward to testing this for my youtube channel. It definitely looks an improvement on the 17-40L but saying that it is 11 years old now lol! Thanks for posting the images though :)</p>

<p>What was it like at higher apertures? I recently reviewed my 17-40L <a href=" and once stopped down the corner detail was very impressive. There are test shots in the video. Am interested to see more testing from the 16-35 as it looks like another cracker from canon!</p>

<p>Sent you an email Thomas</p>

<p>Hi Thomas, I shoot property as my day job and have to 17-40 on a 6d and it works beautifully. All I will say is the more you can learn about interior photography the better as this will help you make the decision for what type of work flow you want. Like will you be shooting for higher end real estate or will it just be a run and gun situation grab the shots and on to the next job? I'm guessing you will be working with a tripod if so then save your cash and get the 17-40L.<br>

Before I upgraded to the 6d I had a 60d with the sigma 10-20mm and my clients couldn't even tell the difference if I'm honest! <br>

Good luck with the real estate work!</p>

<p>Sounds like exciting times ahead for you! I personally keep clients images saved to a seperate hard drive in case they ever want more copies or if they lose or damage the CD/USB stick images are given on.<br>

Every year or so I will go through my files and trim out the oldest ones and start the cycle again but speaking with other photographers, they all seem to do things their own way to suit their professional needs and what works for them etc.<br>

Hope this helps you out and hope you enjoy your shoots coming up!<br>

 

All the best,</p>

<p>Leon</p>

<p>Hello Hakan, I have been shooting with the 6d for a couple of months now. I debated between this and the 5d mkiii. I was expecting to be disappointed with the 6d's focusing system but the center focusing point is a lot more sensitive in low light so that was a big added bonus as it can focus even when it is almost dark and lock on very well! <br>

What I will say is if you can afford it I would personally go for the 5d mkiii as it has a life span of 150,000 shutter actuations over the 6d's 100,000. 5d mkiii has the higher build quality and better laid out camera in my opinion after shooting with the 6d. Has a far superior auto focus system especially for sports and wildlife shooting. But on the flip side of that the 6d is slightly lighter so it depends what you want from your camera really. Image quality is stunning from both the sensors hence why I opted to save a bit of money and go for the 6d. <br>

Have a full review up on my <a href="http://www.lumusphoto.com">site</a> with high res example images, and have a review on my <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/lumusphoto">youtube</a> channel if you want to check it out.<br>

Hope this helps you out, you have some gorgeous glass to shoot with I must say! <br>

All the best,</p>

<p>Leon</p>

Both the 16-35 and 17-40 produce quite stunning detail and colour rendition. I've been shooting with the 17-40 for a few

months now and it still amazes me getting back to the computer and looking through the images taken with it. It does give

a fair but of distortion at the wide end but if you were using it on a cropped frame body there wouldn't be as much as an

issue to deal with. Both lenses need stopping down to really produce what they are capable of but I'd say if you really

need that f2.8 that the 16-35 offers then the 17-40 can't compete with it's constant f4.

 

What I will say is that on most occasions shooting landscape involved using a tripod so if you were predominantly

shooting this way then for me it's a no brainer, save the huge chunk of cash and opt for the 17-40.

 

I've got a really quick review over at lumusphoto . Com with example images if you want to have a look and a short video

review on my YouTube channel. Hope this helps you out. Final note I'd suggest maybe renting the lenses one at a time

and use them for a few days see how they feel to you back to back shooting your style.

<p>I have used yongnuo for a good few years now. I sold my canon 580ex and purchased 4 yn560ii. Only real benefit of using the canon one was having high speed sync and ETTL, which basically is quite a good automatic system. I never used this function so decided to sell and get more flashes to enable me to be more creative. I would say the more flashes the better really for giving you control over your lighting and photographic creativity. <br /> There is no difference whatsoever in my opinion in the quality of light pumped out by the Yongnuo flashes. They even have flashes now that do everything the canon ones do but cheaper by a long long way. <br /></p>

<p>Hi Ian, my advice would be to buy a canon 60d or equivalent. I'm sure you can get them with like the 18-200mm kit lens or 18-135mm. Would be a great all round lens enabling you get quite wide shots all the way to telephoto. <br>

What I would do is watch as many reviews as possible on youtube and see if you like the look of the camera as these days image quality with most DSLRs in this price bracket regardless of make is minimal. Perhaps pop down to Jessops or something and have a feel of the camera before parting with the cash. <br>

Just had a quick look on jessops like and you can get the 60d with the 18-135mm for £679.<br>

If you want any other help just let me know. I think it will just come down to ergonomics of the camera for you. Hope you get a nice DSLR and enjoy shooting!</p>

<p>And as far as settings go I was talking in regard to the camera settings and how they should be applied, I was NOT suggesting for one second that he used those exact setting as you well know. But thanks for the very political misquote there. Can tell you work within a mainstream institution I must say!<br>

I really do not see why we all aren't pulling in the same direction here to try and help Sven rather than this utter waste of time philosophising on our teaching opinions. <br>

Ali baba, good call! lol</p>

<p>Yes and I have taken a look at their work and some of it is very nice indeed. We all have our own way of trying to help people and I have always found that sometimes over simplifying for the purpose of immediate learning usually helps a person long term. Then one can start to unravel the over simplified and delve deeper into the theory in much greater depth.<br>

Regardless I hope Sven takes away some valuable information from here and it goes on to help him in his photography aspirations. I wish you all the best Sven.</p>

<p>As with all forums the pedantic boys come along. I was trying to keep it nice and simple for Sven and not over complicate it. Those are more advanced scenarios and he can build up once he has a foundation of knowledge. The scene in which Sven wanted to shoot would have been recreated beautifully with the settings I suggested but I must apologise as I honestly didn't realise that camera had a flash sync speed so high.<br>

Bombarding someone with that amount of information will be of great help I'm sure! </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi again Sven, there are basically 2 exposures in one going on - the first being the ambient exposure and the second a flash exposure. So use the shutter speed to get an ambient light exposure you like this could be even pitch black which is referred to as low key photography. The next part of the exposure is when you introduce the flash to light up your subject. If your subject isn't lit up bright enough then either turn up your flash power, open up your aperture or dial up your ISO. <br>

I will shortly be making a video on my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/lumusphoto">youtube</a> channel about this as I think it is easier to explain if I shoot this with a model. I will go through several lighting scenarios for you Sven. Really hope this has helped shed some light (pardon the pun!) and given you a better understanding to try this for yourself.<br>

All the best,</p>

<p>Leon</p>

<p>Sven firstly you need to be operating the camera ideally in full manual. Secondly shutter speed only effects the ambient lighting not the flash - reason being is that the duration of the flash is that short it tents to be faster than the shutter speed used by the camera. So even if you are shooting at 1/30th second your subject will be pin sharp as the flash is providing the light on them. Flash duration can be as fast as 1/8000th so don't worry about the slow shutter speed. </p>

<p>Red eye wont be a problem once you get the flash off the camera - this only happens when the light bounces from the eyes straight back into the lens. As for shooting in the dark I imagine thats pretty hard and you can achieve the dark look without shooting in complete darkness. But if you have to shoot in the dark then I would recommend using either scale focus or some kind of AF assist beam. <br>

I wouldn't over complicate it as it really is pretty simple in most cases I think you just need to have a play around with a model or a friend and see what your results are like.</p>

<p>I always find it easiest to get and exposure set up for the ambient light then bring the flash in to light my subject. I have attached an image shot with a canon 30d few years ago now.<br>

The settings ISO 100, 1/200sec, f4.5 25mm efs 18-55mm kit lens. The flash was a yn460 held up high off to the right set at 1/8th power. <br>

I still to this day light subjects like this but I also understand why people use TTL as if you have no time to set up and need the shot then you have no choice in that situation.<br>

Here is a link to my youtube channel, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/lumusphoto">https://www.youtube.com/user/lumusphoto</a> if you want me to make a video to show you a simple set up I would love to help you out to get the look you want.</p>

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<p>Check this link out mate, might help <a href="

<p>Anytime, how long you been shooting?</p>

<p>Holly it sounds like you are doing all the right things.</p>

<p>Dug a couple more out I have put them in my portfolio on here. All shot with the noisy as hell 50mm 1.8! lol</p>

<p><a href="/beginner-photography-questions-forum/%20https:/www.youtube.com/channel/UCYw5yDTqS28ZI7rVgbQK1OA"> </a></p><div></div>

<p>Cheers Rob! </p>

<p><a href=" Hope this helps</p>

<p>Hi Holly I would have to agree with Michael. At the end of the day it is a business and you need structure and foundation for it to stand on. I think your heading in the right direction making a business plan and couldn't agree more with what Michael said about setting a financial figure as a target for the year and working backwards from there. Also you might have to take on photography jobs you don't really enjoy just to bring the money in. My best bit of advice I could give you is don't be afraid of people saying no and spend a bit of time everyday databasing potential future clients and focussing on how to generate a living wage doing what you love. I sincerely hope you succeed!</p>