surlen_woals

<p>I can't move the little metal slider inset on my rail. I don't see any other button or method.</p>

<p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/zXNoKqs.jpg" alt="" width="311" height="355" /><br> I have been trying to strip down a Cambo SCX for travel, following written instructions given online. Supposedly I should be able to remove this knob at the end of the rail, which pins the plastic cap to the tip. Once I remove the plastic cap, I read that the standards will be able to slide off the rail.<br /><br />The issue here is that when I screw the knob clockwise to loosen it, it eventually reaches a detached state where it is loose enough to wobble while embedded enough that it cannot be removed. In this state the plastic cap will not budge. Is there something I've done wrong here?<br /><br />Besides the written instructions I was provided on a forum, I have not been able to find out how to disassemble the Cambo SCX. The camera's manual does not include such instructions. I would ask that someone please explain to me how I can remove the standards from the rail. </p>

<p>Preferably this could be sub 800 CDN. <br />Which auction sites would those be?</p>

<p>I currently have a Cambo SCX which has proven very difficult to move. Technical field cameras don't entice me, as they seem like a tremendous sacrifice in movements for only a little added portability. I've seen the Toho (which can no longer be found) and the Cambo SF, both of which have convinced me that small-profile or lightweight monorails are an excellent and versatile in-between. Although I would like a technical for the occasional hand-held shot, realistically most of my 4x5 work is done from the ground glass, and on a tripod. <br /><br />Can any of you guys recommend some possible candidates for a portablemonorail purchase? I'm going to keep my eyes open for the SF, but in the meantime I should probably also watch for alternatives.</p>

<p>Could you please share where you found the filter size listings? That could really help me out.</p>

<p>I have a quite old Fujinon 150mm W, and I'm trying to figure out the filter size for it. I measured the barrel end diameter to be 41mm, but that doesn't seem to be a standard size. I've seen prior posts that state it takes a 52mm diameter filter. That cannot be the case, as I have some of those for my 35mm, and they are far too large. I just want to protect the glass with a UV filter.<br /><br />Instead of making a second post, I'd like to throw out an inquiry for my other lenses, too. I have a process Ronar 240mm barrel lens, a 90mm Super Angulon, and a Tominon 75mm. Anyone have an idea of what filter sizes those would take? I've discovered my 210mm Symmar S threads 77mm filters.</p>

<p>To make my large format affordable, I've been shooting x-ray film. Metering is difficult, as the panchromatic measurements that my 778 provides do not accord with the sensitivity of the film. I would like to place a no. 44a filter on it, to filter our the red light.<br /> <br /> I was using a cheap step down/up ring set to find the right size for the barrel of the Sekonic 778, but none of the sizes were correct. The closest I could get was 37mm. It seemed almost dead on, but would not slide into the threads.<br> <br /> I'm sure that Sekonic has their own filters, or peripherals that adapt for filters. I cannot afford those, however. I got this 778 at a great price, and it was the only way I could swing it.<br> <br /> Does anyone know what barrel circumference or, potentially, special threading that the 778 requires? <br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>I've started to notice that all of my hasselblad pictures are marred by the same identifiable squiggle of a tiny hair, and dust that never seems to move. I'd like to sit down and clean out the whole damn camera, because it was an old beater of a body, and abounds with dust and fibres. How do I go about doing this? Can I just use a can of compressed air at a distance and gently blow everything out? It's getting rather annoying having to heal over all these little bits in photoshop.<br /><br />I've included an example of the issue.<br /><br /></p>

<p>So I recently purchased a monorail 4x5, and, to my surprise, my little fotopro can take that weight. The little head does not look like it'd balance that weight very well, though. Nor would I trust that simple square plate. So I invested in a 229 Manfrotto head, and might purchase a bogen 3021 to fit it. However, in the interest of saving money (uni student working minimum wage), I'm wondering if I can just affix the 229 head to the c5i. If not, could it be done with an adapter, perhaps? I couldn't find any information after a cursory google search, so I'm hoping that I can find an answer here. <br /><br />Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks for the help John, Sheldon and Louis.</p>

<p>Why are monorails so undesirable these days? <br /><br />I did take a look at completed sales and they are much closer to what you specified. I feel like a chump. Shouldn't'a trust 'em. I'll see if I can haggle him down to a more reasonable price. </p>

<p>He's asking 300$ for the camera plus three lensboards, 350$ for camera, lensboards and 4 film holders, and 450 for camera, lensboards, film holders and a Kodak Ektar 127mm in "<em><strong>not perfect but good for pictures</strong></em>" condition (quoting him here). I had thought it was "friendly" because the Cambo's in mint I saw on ebay were pretty pricey, more like 500+ for the camera alone.<br /><br />Louis: Yeah, I get the impression that he might be excited to see a young person getting into large format (I seem significantly younger than your average large format enthusiast). Certainly I understand that people like to 'nerd out' about hardware with others, too. And older men do sometimes get a kick out of that whole surrogate-son tutelage vibe. But I can equally see it as someone seeing an opportunity to scam a naive young person "who should know better" or something along those lines. </p>

<p>I have my eyes on a model that is up for sale from a local photographer in New York at what seems like a very reasonable price, but I am a bit suspicious. I am skeptical they'd be offering me what seem like "friend" prices for no other reason than that they empathise with a first-time large format photographer. What are common issues that can be found in a visual inspection that I should look out for? I gave it a very cursory look-over but did not feel qualified to make the call. Model is a Calumet/Cambo 45N or SCN that they claim is in mint condition, albeit with dessicated leveling bubbles. </p>

<p>My interest in the spot meter stems from the fact that I shoot primarily black and white (for lower costs), and that I am interested in implementing the zone system. I understand the principles, but I find that carrying around my 35mm camera as a stand-in light meter is a little cumbersome, and it's not a true 1 degree spot meter, which would allow me greater control over what I set as middle gray, right? <br /><br />I don't mind spending a good 300-400. My thought process is that it will be an investment that will significantly improve my photographic accuracy while eschewing that cost later down the road. I'm just afraid that I'll spend that much and then discover that going all in on a single-function meter, spot or incident will make me regret my purchase. Additionally, I'm very keen on getting something that has that low-light functionality, so that I can take my night photos. My 35mm's TTL really struggles to give readings at all, even at dusk.</p>

<p>I've been using a little Sekonic reflective reading meter for years, one of those 30 degree ones that sits in a brown leather casing. It doesn't really offer much in the way of precision, and I think it's really spoiling some shots. So I've been looking at some newer used Sekonic models, namely the 778, 758, 558 and 508 <br /><br />Considering I mostly shoot outdoors, I figured that a spot meter would do me the most good. However, I realise that later, I may get my hands on some studio lights, and some flash equipment. From my admittedly limited understanding, incident metering is most handy here. This has widened my search to include combined incident/spot meter combination units. <br /><br />It is unclear to me whether the dedicated spot meters and dedicated incident meters (what few there are) out there are better at their tasks individually than devices that carry both apparatus. Additionally, I would prefer to find a metering device that functions well in lower light settings (I like to do some night photography, particularly on the street). The final caveat is that I am on a tight budget, as my wages aren't high and our dollar (Canadian) is currently quite low in value. <br /><br />Any advice is much appreciated.</p>

<p>Where should I go instead?</p>

<p>Am I wrong in my understanding that a spot meter, because of its restricted viewpoint, is essentially a more reliable iteration of a reflected light meter? My budget is preferably 100$, but I'd go up to 150. I'm just looking for something sensitive enough to give me readings in low light, as I imagine some more modern digital meters might. </p>

<p>I've been taking a lot of analog photography with my hasselblad, and am now looking to also acquire a large format potentially. But all this time I've been struggling with an old selenium cell low-range lightmeter that can't even provide readings in anything dimmer than sunset. My budget is about a hundred dollars, and I'm looking for a reliable spot or reflected light meter to replace the analog one. Any suggestions?</p>