fournier_marc

Hum!... Searched for Nikon Photo Secretary instructions to see what it says and found this little blurb : " • You cannot store data for "Year/Month/Day/Hour/Minute/Second" or data containing characters, unless the MF-28 is attached to the camera. " After much reading it seems the MF-27 is imprint only. This goes along with all base data-backs compared to Multi-control backs (MF-28) The MF-27 has only 6 contact point back to camera. The MF-28 has 8. Marc

These LCD's will fade, bleed, die. Fact of life. When is up in the air, but they will fade. My two MF-23 for F4 are still going strong. Both were purchased used, one was in real bad shape but still working after serviced by me. The LCD on my guitar tuner lasted 7 years and now must be viewed from a different angle. The LCD on my Fluke started acting up several years ago. The LCD on the kitchen appliance is also fading away. Seems the electronic components inside start to loose efficiency and are not be able to power the matrix and uncoil the Liquid Crystals. Sometimes a fresh set of batteries helps. If not, not much you can do but replace components to try and bring it back to life. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-crystal_display So it is not how or why but when. The LCD bleed of the F4 is another matter. Seal between plates giving up and letting the L in LC seep out. Now does the back send the information to the camera, yes as there is no TIME / DATE setup in the F4 or F5, the time / date information comes from the data-back only and is passed on to the camera for inclusion in the meta-data per frame. Marc

The SB-600 is good, if free even better. The motor assembly is comprised of motor, motor base, and motor plate. Motor Plate assembly is screwed (4) to top cover. So you will have to determine what portion has broken, cracked, stripped to get a proper replacement going. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwjVURYDWAU Parts are not available from Nikon to you. Some vendors selling parts on Ebay for the SB line of flashes. Right now I do not see your required parts online. But there are a few " for parts " SB-600 available. One in particular for 15.00$US, working zoom but missing other parts, flash tube dead. Marc<div></div>

<p>Which of the auto focus tracking mode are you using: Continous servo, Single servo, <br> What Focus area mode: Single area or Dynamic area AF<br> The the F5 has what they call Scan-Driving. Defocus. This is when Dynamic focus is selected and your prime focus point changes and the camera Scan-Driving to the next possible focus point of the five. if the subject can not be tracked or is out of range it reports unable to focus. EV has an effect here also.<br> Hope this is not boring.<br> - - - - - <br> I believe the '"recalculate the interface " might refer to the PC software that was an option for the F5 and others; Photo Secretary . You could deselect focus areas using the software. Another software was availlable but not updated since 2005 from www.holymoose.com. Need a specific cable to connect PC to camera, it is hard to come by.<br> Photo Secretary is avail on Ebay and they are probably illegal copies.<br> As to the cable they are avail also on Ebay or you can build one. Instructions can be fund via Google search.<br> Last option is a recently release version with USB interface to F5 from Promote Systems www.meta35.com<br> <br />Marc</p>

<p>John, not to clear. It stopped working before or during disassembly ? One plug connector came loose ? <br> You need the Service manual to sort this out. You should have the manual before starting this. Service manual also provides the contact points to drain the capacitor using a 200 to 1k Ohm resistor. You can get a good shock, not kill you type, but a good jolt. Usually what gets you is the 'reaction'. But do not overlook this step and drain the capacitor fully. Measure it with an OHM meter to confirm it is 0Volts or close to.<br> There are two connectors that can come loose with removal of front cover (E unit). Sort that out is pretty simple as they are keyed. As long as you stay away from (or be carefull with ) the fiber optic light pipe. The usual culprits are CN8, CN16 in the manual.<br> I took mine apart to replace cover assembly that had cracked.<br> <cite >elektrotanya.com/<strong>nikon</strong>_<strong>sb</strong>-<strong>800</strong>.pdf/download.html</cite><br> Marc</p>

Split F3 with surface rust on shutter main spring. This was a pristine one.<div></div>

hum.. do not like this edit feature here...

User guide page 23 This blank shot referres to film loading. " When making blank shots with the shutter speed dial set to "A," the shutter will fire at 1/80 sec. until the frame counter reaches "1." In addition, the LCD shows 8O in the finder. Or if you set the dial manually between 1/125 and 1/2000 sec., the shutter will still fire at 1/80 sec. In the finder, an "M8O" is displayed. However, if the speed is manually set to 1/80 sec. (X) or below, the shutter will fire at the speed set and the speed will be displayed by the LCD. Therefore, to speed up film loading, set the dial to "A" or to 1/80 sec. (X) or above. "T" should not be used when making blank shots as the shutter will remain locked open. " User Guide F3 http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F3.pdf - - - This is the exact reason why I would shoot some film and get acquainted with camera before even thinking about CLA. How do you even know the camera is fully functional. CLA may bring out bugs, but at what price. Marc

Seals are simple to check if they are end of life. Remove the lens and compress the seal at top of chamber. if it does not bounce and sticks to your finger or starts to flake off, get it CLA. If the top seal if fine. do not fret it. You are all ready in 300$ and a proper CLA will be another $100+ for sure. Seals are a simple fix you can do your self. ALL they do is replace the mirror up seal and the two door seals. Oil/lube this camera requires a full tear down and splitting the body. That will cost you more. Run some film thru it and confirm all is well with it, send it back if the pictures turn out bad. It may look great outside and be dry as a bone inside. And that means the full teardown is required. Marc

Simple!.... Not quite... But I got it done Marc<div></div>

<p>This has been bugging me all night. Must be my tech background.<br> The only thing I can think of is the MG (magnet) in the shutter assembly is not holding the second curtain.<br> There is good information on this page regarding F4 shutter :<br> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/reliability/index3.htm<br> <br />There are two parts to holding the curtain open, mechanical and magnetic. I suspect the magnetic part has failed on you and is not holding the curtain open to delay closing with the proper timing slit/opening. <br> There are small transistors that control current flow to the magnets. Possible magnet failure, transistor failure or CPU fail.<br> This requires splitting the camera to get at the shutter assembly and testing it. Nikon Service did not repair shutters, they were sent back to Nikon Japan for repair and calibration. The curtains were the only service part available of the shutter. They are simple to replace and I have done it.<br> Marc</p><div></div>

Try the T setting on speed dial to see if both curtains react.. You have to hold the shutter release for more than 35 seconds to get this test right Marc

Using a Mastech MS8226 Pin 1 to 5 = 6.65K Pin 1 to 6 =36.60M Pin 1 -> 2 = 34.33M pin 1 -> 3 = 34.17M pin 1 -> 4 = .all over the map pin 1 -> 7 = 35.40M Hope this helps Marc

The ring resistor in the FTN is a carbon layer and will wear out over time and use. Max and min are usually fine. Anything in the middle got worn away with each indexing of the aperture ring. If the camera saw much use, it is probably worn beyond service. As others said, the original batteries for the FTN are unavailable. Replacement battery will not have the proper voltage and usually require compensation or re-calibration. You also have to do the " Nikon Shuffle " with the lens. This is the indexing part. Marc

" When loaded per your instructions, the aperture ring of the attached lens can move in any which way. However - the coupler on the body will only allow the diaphragm to be wide open, or stopped down to f8. I can see the diaphragm being controlled (opening up or closing) by the aperture ring when I hold the mounted lens towards my face. But the Nikkormat EL body doesnt seem to want to allow the diaphragm anymore than half open. " - - - This is strange as a properly mounted lens, you should not see any diaphragm change unless you push the depth of field button. Turning the aperture ring on the mounted lens should not affect the diaphragm , visually. Remove lens and push the depth of field button. You should see a lever in camera, next to DF button raise and lower . Raise is it normal state. It might be stuck, binding, causing the 7 stop off. Marc

<p>Does your F4 throw an error via the RED led above R2 ?<br> If no error indicated, your shutter should be working fine. If you had a shutter fault, you would get a red error led, a sequence error.<br> Tripping the shutter with back open will not destroy the shutter curtains. If anything happens to the curtains they were bad to start with. It is suggested to operate at speeds above 1/250 if back is open for testing.<br> There is a small switch, camera rear door open, end of arc of R2. The switch is in the gully. Old ones were white. Newer version are metal. Press and hold this switch in and trip shutter. You will see light right up to 1/8000. Light at 1/8000 gets very dim.<br> The two curtains travel at the same speed, the opening between curtains shrinks in size as you go over 1/250.<br> Marc</p>

Here are the possible roots of your evil. There is one hefty spring that cocks the mirror up and stops the lens down for a shot, it is hard as H*** to activate with your fingers. Once shutter is released, the mirror returns via spring in second image. If the mirror floats around or slow to return home, the return spring is possibly popped off. Otherwise it is lube job to loosen up the mechanism. At any rate, it is split the camera in two, soldering and all. Marc N Fournier Quebec<div></div>

Back of camera facing you. On body, left hand guide rail for the finder has a notch to it.. If it is worn the lock lever does no bring the finder in full contact with the spring loaded pins of the contact assembly. If the rail is loose, could be to far back. One slide rail is pinned, the other side is free floating for adjustment. Might try and move the left slide forward a tad. Double check the lock pawl also as they had a tendency to break the tip off. This is in the finder itself. The pawl drops in to the notch in question. I have a perfectly good DP30 with the pawl in question broken off. No replacement part available from Nikon. Other possibility is the gold pin contact assembly being loose and moving backwards. Last is the contact assembly defective. Marc N Fournier Quebec

Does the camera still fire even if mirror is stuck in up position ? Could be a stuck mirror but if it does not fire at all and posts an error condition via led, it will be more than a simple stuck-in-the-goo. If the timing is affected, the mirror could be in a up position and camera will not fire. If it still fires for you and varies the shutter speed, try and pry the mirror down. Do not force it. Try to keep " touch the mirror " to a minimum as the metering is done THRU the first mirror and bounced off the second one to the metering cells in the body. Anything passed this requires the camera be split in two for examination. Marc N Fournier Quebec

Various LCD bleed.. 56 and 58 are good, no bleed examples. http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/55.JPG http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/56.JPG http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/57.JPG http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/58.JPG http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/59.JPG http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/60.JPG This is pic of where the squeal originates from on the F4 http://pages.videotron.com/forfou/024.jpg Marc Fournier, Quebec

1- LCD bleed. This bleed is simple to see even on Ebay images. The left hand LCD on the camera body is the culprit. The right hand one has no issue. Look at the images and if the lcd (left hand) is not a perfect rectangle, it is bleeding. Just have the seller take a pic with some light shinning thru the clear window at front of camera ( Images below are from Ebay and my parts camera) Repairing the LCD bleed is not simple as the parts are not available from Nikon. There is a replacement on Ebay right now for $39 US from Turkey. I have purchased from him, without issue, before. I have a small parts stash for F4's. Replacement requires separating the camera in two. One could replace just the LCD, but this is not for the non-tech and one risks ripping / braking the flexible PCB (FCP to Nikon) in the process. I have never seen this bleed recede or go away. Once it starts it gets worse or remains as is. It does not vanish. 2- Squealing DOF preview. Happens. Not a big deal but not simple to resolve as one must split camera in two to clean and apply a drop of lube. Marc Fournier, Quebec

<p>I use standard retainer ring removal pliers, the ones with the bent end. Works like a charm.<br> For the screws, exchange the bottom screws with the one that hold the left and right top covers. these are located under the prism/view finder so remove the view finder. They are black. <br> Just put a drop of white glue or similar on the worn ones and do not tighten them down so hard for future removal. They will not vanish on you and are covered by the prism.<br> There are four screws to remove for the bottom cover. The two obvious ones, the MD coupler one and one located in the guide pin hole.<br> Marc Fournier, Quebec</p> <div></div>