malin_ranwala

<p>Thanks alot for your opinions everyone. Craig, I do use the 'focus and recompose" technique. I shall try changing my focusing style first and see. I however don't think shooting at a lower aperture will properly solve the problem (true, in the final photo, a larger depth of field means that focus errors are less noticeable) since the lens is always wide open when autofocusing with the viewfinder, and only stopped down just before the shutter releases.<br> I shall carry out a series of tests and find out more.</p>

<p>I having using a Nikon D5300 for over a year and I recently purchased a 50mm 1.8G lens for portraits. Great lens, but the only issue is that when I autofocus on a subject in a dimly lit area (eg - indoors), the focus appears fine in the viewfinder, but when I check out the final photo, the camera nearly always seems to have focused slightly behind the subject. I have tried this with stationary subjects and a tripod to make sure that the focus isn't changed by camera movement. <br> I have tried shooting with the camera's inbuilt AF assist light as well as that of my speedlight, but even so this only slightly reduces the focus error instead of eliminating it. <br> The unusual part is that this seems to occur only when shooting throught the viewfinder with phase detection AF (and the center focus point which is said to be the most sensitive). There appears to be no problem at all with contrast detection AF in Live view.<br> Also, in the past I used an 18-55 lens and ran into this problem on a couple of occasions. However, the focus was not as off as with the 50mm, and for the most part, it focused perfectly.<br> Any help would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>Yes, the manual says the shutter and everything else is completely mechanical. I checked on eBay where there are used, working replacements from $25, but ordering is going to be a bit of a hassle since I'm located in Sri Lanka where we have taxes for getting camera equipment through post, etc. I'll check the local shop to see if it is actually cheaper to get repaired if I can't find a replacement body here. This camera holds a lot of sentimental value since my dad took it around the world and enjoyed taking thousands of pictures with it so I really don't want to toss it out! Until then, thanks guys.</p>

<p>Hi all, I have an old Ricoh KR Super II which my dad bought in 1995, and used it until around 2005 until we switched to digital. It's been in storage ever since, and when I took it out yesterday and released the shutter, I noticed that the mirror didn't return after popping up. Now the shutter curtains remain open and the film advance lever won't turn all the way, but it still lets me release the shutter.<br> Once I took the lens off and examined the mirror box, I noticed a little lever on the side. I pulled this lever down and it clicked in place, but couldn't do anything about the shutter curtain. Now every time I press the shutter button, the mirror flips up and stays up and I have to pull down that lever each time, and as for the shutter curtain, it remains permanently open.<br> Any help please? Thanks.</p>

<p>How about this? It's the same PT04A and it looks like the one you mentioned in the link above. (It's not allowed to post Ebay links here so this is only part of the link)<br> .com/itm/iShoot-Wireless-Flash-Trigger-Receiver-for-Canon-Nikon-/250757382851?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a624e02c3</p>

<p>Thanks alot, Joe. The statement given on the Nikon website itself says it all, so I guess I'm safe. I'm currently looking at some radio triggers on eBay, and yes, they are pretty cheap compared to a Safesync, which I don't think would be necessary. But will the hotshoes of the recievers take high voltages without burning out?</p>

<p>I just downloaded the Reference manual for the D5300 which contains a lot more info than the User's manual, and this is what was mentioned on page 234 (Technical Notes)-</p> <p>"Use only Nikon flash units. Negative voltages or voltages over 250V applied to the accessory shoe could not only prevent normal operation, but damage the sync circuitry of the camera or flash. Before using a Nikon flash unit not listed in this section, contact a Nikon authorized representative for more information."<br> The voltages of all my flash units are well within the 250V range, and I don't think they would do much harm since they only have electrical contacts at the center pin and edge of the foot. (no TTL etc.) All in all, I'd better try and find out...</p>

<p>Hi all, I recently bought a Nikon D5300 which is a pretty amazing camera, I must say. I also have a few SLR flash units (Sunpak Softlite 1600A, Cobra Auto 210, Fotomatic 500A) from my dad's film gear. However I am reluctant to use these as I've heard that high trigger voltages from old flashes can fry the circuitry in newer DSLRs.<br> I measured these voltages with a Caltek digital multimeter with its highest impedance setting and these were the results-<br> The Cobra gave a reading of around 79-81V and the Fotomatic about 91-92V. Unfortunately I didn't get to measure the Sunpak since one of its battery contact terminals seems to be missing, but it clocks in at around 46.6V according to this page www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html<br> I've heard that newer Nikons like the D3200 and the D5200 can handle anything up to 250V, but despite all my googling, I haven't found any mention's of the D5300'S limit. I didn't find it specified in the manual either.<br> Anybody here who knows the proper voltage limit for the D5300? Any help would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>I don't think I'll need a dedicated film scanner as my parents weren't big on saving negs :( so I'm only left with about 20- 25 rolls of surviving negatives and a couple of sets of slides (around 500-600 pictures in total), and the only hard part in the editing process is dust removal. Inverting the neg is no problem as I use Photoshop's built in tools as well as the Kodak ROC plugin.<br> Earlier I did fashion out a film carrier out of parts of a square ice cream tub, and it holds both strips and slides comfortably too. It gave satisfactory images with my phone's screen as a lightsource, apart from the uneven lighting problem.<br> Today I designed a new rig with a large shoebox, lined it on the inside with white photocopy paper and made a small opening in front to shoot through, to which I taped the film holder. In the side I made a hole to stick an old Cobra 210 flashgun through, with which I plan to use a sync cord with the camera. Unfortunately my HX1 has no hotshoe so I haven't had a chance to properly test the setup,but I soon will, once I get the DSLR :) By the way, would a trigger voltage of 90v too high for the D5300?</p>

<p>Hi all, I'm currently planning to digitize and preserve my family's collection of 35mm colour negatives and a few slides. I've seen various tutorials on the Internet on how to do this with a DSLR and lightbox or flash for evenly illuminating the negs. I've currently tried this with my bridge (Sony DSC HX1) and a white screen on my phone to illuminate the film from behind.<br> However, I've noticed with the negs, especially when I place the camera close to the film, that there is quite a bit of vignetting around the white screen, which gives a large dark patch in and around the center of the frame when I invert the shots in PS. (try aiming your phone's camera at a completely white image on your monitor and you might see what I mean). <br> I know that this should be done ideally with a DSLR to get the best image quality, and I will be getting a Nikon D5300 and macro lens in a couple months' time. Would I be able to get a completely uniform white backgroud if I use a small lightbox (eg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Medalight-135-CCFL-Lightbox-portable-panel-slide-viewer-/251073599196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a752716dc ) with the DSLR or a wirelessly triggered flash instead?<br> Anyone who's tried this technique, I'd like to hear about how you did it, and I've attached a couple shots below. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)<br /><br /><br> http://www.photo.net/photo/17774276<br> http://www.photo.net/photo/17774275<br> http://www.photo.net/photo/17774274</p>