gordon_mcgowan1

<p>Hello Eduardo. If Paloma is learning the skills of traditional photography, she might find "The Goldfinger craftbook for creative photography" useful. It's available as a free pdf download from Silverprint's Web site here: <a href="http://www.silverprint.co.uk/pdf/Goldfinger.pdf">http://www.silverprint.co.uk/pdf/Goldfinger.pdf</a> <br>

Silverprint ship worldwide (I have no connection with them, just to be clear) so you may wish to browse their site. They've been around for ages and I remember buying Agfa Record-Rapid on the roll and getting 440 stainless steel trays made up at the local sheet metal works for large Degree show prints.<br>

Paterson has stopped making FX39, btw so I'm currently trying out Tetenal Ultrafin Plus with Delta 100, though Ilfotec DDX should also work well.<br>

Hope this helps!<br>

Gordon, U.K.</p>

 

<p>Hello Eduardo,</p>

<p>I've never tried 3D imaging but it sound interesting.</p>

<p>I did my BA(Hons) Photography at Nottingham Trent University (it was Trent Polytechnic in those days), so wish your daughter every success with her studies.</p>

<p>Following Jay's suggestion, if you want to try home-brew developers, you could try Rollei Retro 80, Agfa Copex or Kodak Imagelink with H&W Control Formula (from The Frugal Photographer Web site):</p>

<p>This developer, invented by Harold Holden and Arnold Weichert in the late 1960's, was patented in 1973. The patent has expired, and the formula is now in the public domain.<br />H&W Control was sold in retail stores for several years, but did not receive widespread distribution. Before being commercialized, it was used extensively by the US military for developing surveillance films, the kinds used by top-secret high-altitude aircraft of the day such as the U2.</p>

<p>Today's Bluefire HR developer is an updated version of H&W Control, reformulated for multi-year shelf life.</p>

<p>When mixed fresh, the H&W Control formula disclosed here will give you the same sensitometric results as the commercially packaged Bluefire HR. However its shelf life will be six months or less, depending on storage conditions.</p>

<p>Solution A: <br />Water 50 ml <br />Sodium sulfite 1 g<br />Hydroquinone 0.16 g<br />Sodium carbonate 4.6 g<br />Phenidone 1.1 g</p>

<p>Solution B: <br />Water 50 ml <br />Sodium sulfite 8 g</p>

<p>Add Solution A to Solution B, then add water to make 132 ml of concentrate. <br />Phenidone dissolves with difficulty. Use water heated to 55° (130°F). Mix the chemicals in the order shown, and be sure each is completely dissolved before adding the next.</p>

<p>This is a concentrate. To use, add water to make to 2.1 litres of working solution per 132 ml of concentrate (approximate dilution of 1:16). Process at normal development temperatures with intermittent agitation for 14 to 18 minutes. Use working solution once and then discard.<br />Use with Bluefire Police, microfilms, and Kodak Technical Pan. Gives unacceptably flat images on ordinary films.</p>

<p>Shelf life of the concentrate is approximately six months in a full, tightly capped glass or PET bottle, less than one week in a partly full bottle. Refrigeration considerably prolongs shelf life. Normal color is pale yellow. Concentrate that has begun turning pink or red is oxidizing and should be discarded.</p>

<p>Kind regards, Gordon</p>

<p>Hello Eduardo,</p>

<p>I just took delivery today of "American Mood" by Robert Farber, published in hardcover in 2004.<br /> <br /> This is very much my kind of book, with a carefully sequenced mix of soft black and white and subtle colour images made with a variety of camera formats.<br /> <br /> Frames 8, 11, 14, 20, 21, 25, 35, 45, 49, 67 and 76 out of 90 plates were made with Minox 8x11 cameras using ISO 100 and 400 films (67 was made with a Minox miniature Leica).<br /> <br /> The main thing about the work is how well the Minox photographs fit in with the rest of the images. It's quite seamless and viewers wouldn't know a frame had been made with 8x11 unless they read the technical information at the end of the book.<br /> <br /> Not as serious a book as Robert Frank's "The Americans", "American Mood" also charts a road trip and works more at an emotional level, as the title implies.<br /> <br /> This is a good technical and aesthetic demonstration of how the Minox can in the right hands, be just as viable a creative tool as the Leica and a serious camera for the artistic photographer.</p>

<p>Hope this helps your daughter with her studies.</p>

<p>Kind regards,<br /> Gordon</p>

<p>Hello Eduardo,<br>

Microphen is my developer of choice when I need to increase film speed for use under low light conditions. Some films push better than others; for example I made a photograph of Graeme Obree (The Flying Scotsman) riding superman position at Manchester Velodrome which always sells well to cycling enthusiasts. That was made with a black Nikon F Photomic TN and 200mm f4 Nikkor-Q C using Kodak Tri-X rated at ISO 6400. The image has fine grain and good tonality (for this speed).<br>

On the other hand, I photographed Chris Hoy beating Kévin Sireau on the same track in 2008 to become the first British cyclist to win the World Sprint Championship in 54 years. Hoy's front wheel is just over the finish line, Sireau's front wheel just behind the line. This time with my chrome Nikon F Photomic FTN but using a 300mm f4.5 Nikkor on a monopod with Ilford HP5+ rated at ISO 6400. The image is definitely grainier with a slightly 'clumped' appearance. Still acceptable as a piece of track cycling history, but I wish I'd been able to use Tri-X that day (Calumet had run out).<br>

I find it satisfying making strong images with fine equipment and lenses, without motordrive, auto-exposure/focus, digital, etc where the software, rather than the photographer makes key decisions.<br>

Some issues of the Minox Memo (see http://www.minox.org/mhspublications/MinoxMemo/index.html) show good low light work with pushed films.<br>

If you're after a fine grain developer for traditional films, try Ilford Perceptol which works well but be prepared to lose half the film speed (eg., Pan F+ rated at ISO25 rather than ISO50).<br>

A lengthy reply but hope this helps!</p>

<p>Hello Eduardo, I just ordered another bottle of FX-39 from the following dealer:<br>

The Imaging Warehouse Ltd.<br />1A Black Hill Industrial Estate<br />Warwick Road<br />Stratford-Upon-Avon<br />CV37 0PT<br />Tel: 01789 739200<br />Fax: 01789 731569<br />www.theimagingwarehouse.com<br />info@theimagingwarehouse.com<br>

If they won't ship to Colombia, you might try making Crawley's FX-37 developer for T-Max/Delta films? You can find the formula here:<br>

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/33275-crawleys-fx-37-developer-t-max-delta-films.html</p>

<p>Hello Eduardo, I can't speak for using metal cassettes in an LX. However, I purchased a couple of brass Riga cassettes last year on EBay and have had no problems using them in my Minox B and MX cameras.</p>

<p>I purchased a Minox MX which I use as my every day carry, as the camera and ND filter are extremely compact and light. Despite its limited features compared to my B, I'm actually very impressed with the lens quality of the MX, which is pretty sharp for such an inexpensive Minox. The camera is not battery-dependent and as long as the right film is selected for the situation, it's a surprisingly capable little tool.</p>

<p>Hello Eduardo, may I suggest Paterson FX-39? This was specifically designed by Geoffrey Crawley to get the best out of T-grain films, such as Kodak T-Max and Neopan. I find it gives very good results in my Minox 8x11 cameras with Ilford Delta 100, which I cut to size using a professional film cutter purchased from MS Hobbies. Hope this helps!</p>