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robertfel

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  1. I have the Moza Air. Look for B&H's occasional $400 sale. It has the best specs and features in that price range. I'm a product photographer that shoots some videos, I'm guessing you're a photographer as well, since no one buys this camera over a GH5 for it's video spec. Set up is easy, it handles the weight quite well, the size is another issue. The D850 with my Sigma Art 35 or Nikon 14-24 the camera has to be so far back that if you pitch a large amount, the camera would hit the motor. Yaw is fine and my main use, in addition to overall stabilization. I couldn't use the 14-24 with the Manfrotto quick release adapter I wanted to add, I forget if it was weight or clearance. If I shoot more videos, I'll pick up some lighter 1.8 primes. Battery life is great. You can't focus with the button like Canon and other brands can, damn you Nikon! The screen will be partially obstructed, but you can make it work. The batteries for my field monitor just came in, so I'll try the 2 hand grip with monitor, though I'll need the $120 remote for any movements. The Ronin-S is designed better since the motors don't obstruct the display. There are setup videos on YouTube and search for the firmware upgrade video, since it isn't exactly obvious. I bought the Glidecam HD2000 after seeing Devin Super Tramp rave about it. I used it back in the day with my D800, but never got comfortable enough with it to use on a real job. The Moza Air is soooo much easier, just skip the Glidecam unless you need something with no power for a 2 week backcountry trip.
  2. <p>I have lots of Profoto Acute gear, great quality of light and lots of modifiers. I don't like their new monos since the flashtube is recessed. The new monos may be faster, but who cares if it doesn't fill in a beauty dish correctly or fill out a softbox as nicely as the protruding flashtube design.<br> I've been slowly moving over to Dynalite. The flashtube still protrudes on some of their monos and on the SH2000 head. Also, the flash duration is shorter, which is better for freezing objects and eliminating ambient light than my Acutes. The Pro 8 line will give you the protruding tube and great flash duration, but you can fill the garage with used cars for the price of a full kit.<br> The Profoto accessory prices are quite high. Factor in a new flashtube (who knows how much life is left in it) when looking at used gear, it's almost the same price as a Dynalite head.<br> If you're overpowered in your small space, you can use a Neutral Density filter or polarizer. Something I've also done is simply use the modeling light when I wanted to shoot at f/1.4.</p>
  3. <p>I have 2 Profoto Acute2 packs, 5 heads and a mono as well as access to my studio-mate's 7 line and D4. I wanted this light as a more portable background light for travel and for tight spaces and for building my own little light fixtures for small sets (foamcore, Cinefoil, Rosco diffusion).<br> But I wound up getting a Dynalite pack and 2 pencil lights for half the price of one Profoto light. The Dynalite is only 1000 w/s versus the Profoto 2400, but the lights are used so close to the subject or background, that I'm dialed way down any way.<br> Beware when putting either one in an enclosure, there are no fans. But there's no modeling light and you can only pump so much power per minute through one.<br> The Dynalite comes with a 180 reflector, but only short cables. You can get extensions and still be well below the cost of the Profoto.</p>
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