nom

Ken, download Capture 4.1.0 if you haven't already.

The ONLY reason why I don't buy a DSLR is because they don't have a swivel LCD screen and LCD preview. I just CAN'T live without it! Give me a top quality 18x24 sensor digital camera with swivel LCD and I don't care at all if it is SLR or not.

You use slr's, dslr's, medium format film/ digital and large format all together and you still do not have a humble personal camera to shoot snapshot pictures?<br>

Go for the G2 since you liked it more.<br>

Or even better check the Contax T3, <i>this</i> is a personal camera to shoot snapshot pictures, not a Leica-M !

<center><img src="http://www.jordan.gr/Jordan.jpg"><br>

Do you like my hat? :O)<br>

</center>

Well, it's not so difficult to remove it with Photoshop anyway... The areas near the purple fringing are usually almost black and white, so most of the times I just select the area and just desaturate as much as needed. If there is more color information nearby then I desaturate only for the red.

 

But if someone has a better/easier way to do it I would also like to know of course.

Anybody knows which were the serial numbers of the last batch of the

(classic) Titanium M6?

<p align="center" >

<img src="http://www.jordan.gr/stayros.JPG">

</p>

Yanni, an pragmatika theleis h mhxanh soy na exei zoom, tote thn kalyterh poiothta exei h Minilux zoom. Pantws an apofasiseis gia prime fako tote yparxoyn se wraiotates times oi koryfaies Minilux/T3/kai h kataplhktikh Ricoh GR-1s/v. Apo Korydallo, Iordanis.

By starting this thread, I just wanted to make sure that I am not missing something. From your answers: there is no real reason for a digital-M other than us dreaming.<br>

Nobody quarantees that current M lenses will ever be able to be used for digital (we all know the problem), nobody said that shutter lag will be as short as it is now and, yes, the electronics (=all the camera body) will of course be "made in somewhere else, not Leica". <br>So, is it just a dream? Even we don't think it could happen?

Because I only feel happy with a Leica in my hands!

<p align="center" ><img src="http://www.jordan.gr/konitsa.JPG"><br>

Gefyri Konitsas, Ipiros, Ellada

</p>

I was in a similar situation 2 weeks ago. The difference is that I am a diehard Leica-M user for the last 20 years and I always thought that nothing could ever get me away of it. <br>Well, during my 6 days vacation I shot 24 frames with my beloved Leica M6+3E and 400 shots with my silly digital camera. This is 1:16 compared to your 1:14 (film:digital)...Yes, almost the same! <br>Coincidence?<br>The bad thing is that I am very happy with my digital prints too, in fact I think I never had so good prints before. (I had slides though) And my digital is not even a DSLR!<br>Can someone please get this digital "virus" away? I can't use one camera and love a different one! <br>Or, can I???

Well, I am back now... I shot RAW and finest JPEGs and my first impression is that I can't find any difference in quality.

 

When I want to convert a RAW that I am very happy with it, then I just use the "shot settings" so I get no alterations at all before I put it in PS , is it right?

Where you can find similar colors??

 

In Photoshop of course!

Bob,<br>both Raw and Jpeg would be perfect (if I only had a 10D :O)<br>But if I batch process all the Raws then I loose the advantage of differential processing each photo separetely, so what's the advantage over jpegs after all? Am I wrong?

Thank you for your answers. I absolutely agree, but here is why I asked:

 

I just tried to convert RAWs for the first time to test the procedure. I used Canon's free software (ZoomBrowser) and a evaluation copy of BreezeBrowser (which btw adds a watermark unless you buy it). The convert is slow, especially with a slower computer. It would be fine for 10-15 photos or so, but what about 300? I will need days to convert them. This is the reason that I asked. There is no storage limitation btw.

 

Especially about the B+W photos (and I mean the photos that will be finally converted to B+W in PS), they will not benefit from the White Balance flexibility, so, how bad the initial exposure can be after all, since we can check the histogram and probably shoot it again?

 

Should I try a different conversion software too? Which one?

If you are going to shoot 300-400 photos in a week's vacation, would

you still do it in the RAW format or you would shoot at the best JPG

mode available to make your life easier?

 

What about shooting color in RAW and B+W in JPG? Sounds like a good

idea to you?

I just checked the photos from your previous tours. I still think that a Ricoh GR1s or a Canon G5 digital would be perfect for the occasion but in any case I am sure that you will have a great time again. I wish I could come with you :O)

Just out of curiosity, what was your -ascending only- average km/h last time and how many km was your tour?

Henry is absolutely right: I am not sure if our forum friends realise how difficult is this tour. You have to have done such rides to understand the additional 3kgr value on your stamina. And do not forget: there is a big difference between rider's weight and weight that the rider carries. Joop, do NOT downhill at 75km/h with a handlebar bag on.

Buy yourself a Ricoh GR1s(or GR1V) and leave the Leica home. You will be happy for not thinking about your valuable camera been damaged from the vibrations AND for not carrying a backpack (if you haven't done it before for so long rides then you can't imagine how bad it is! - and forget about handlebar bags, you will damage everything)

No, it will stay fine. Is the serial>3100000 ?

A member of this forum recently posted a picture of a Canon G5 with

the Leica SF-20 flash attached. I would like to know his experience

on this combination, especially if the voltage of the flash is safe

for the camera. I would like to try my CF flash on it. Anybody else's

experience would be very welcome too.

My Lexar Compact Flash card has one of the side plastic rails broken.

Can this give any stabilizing problems, or there is no real problem?

ok, the files will be smaller, but refering to quality only, is there

any reason at all to shoot at Black and White (or Monochrome) mode if

the camera has one available? Or it is always better to shoot maximum

detailed color and then use PhotoShop?