sam_elkind

There's no doubt that mercuric chloride is hazardous and therefore

regulated in transportation.

Kevin, you ask a question that has raised some silly answers and some

serious ones. In fact, I have been using a blend of Xtol and Rodinal

for the past year with great results. I found Xtol lacked a little

snap but I liked its grain, and Rodinal had the famous rough grain

but I liked its tonal qualities. So first I tried using them in

series (not satisfactory) and then I tried blending them (very

satisfactory). I find I get a great tonal qualtiy, nice contrast,

good highlight detail and good enough shadow detail. Grain on 35mm

is fine enough that Tri-X enlargers easily to 11x14 without coarse

grain. Delta 100 in 120 is wonderful. So I don't think your idea is

crazy. The film/developer combination you use depends on what you're

after.

In general, the greater the dilution, the slower the development

action, and in turn the finer the grain.

 

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I have been very pleased with Xtol at 1+3 dilutions. I have also

been even more pleased with a dilution of Xtol with a dash of Rodinal

added. For Tri-X I expose at E.I. 200 and develop for 9 minutes at

24 degrees C. with the following fomula: 100 mL Xtol, 400 mL water,

4 mL Rodinal.

 

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I would suggest you try this Xtol/Rodinal blend with APX 400 and see

if it gives you the contrast you want. I have used this fomula with

not only Tri-X, but also T-Max 400 as well as Ilford Delta 100 and

Delta 400. However, you will have to experiment to get the ideal

time for APX400... start maybe around 10 minutes at 24 degrees.

I just want to add a word of caution about the advice (Conrad Hoffman)

suggesting that you could take some chemistry with you by plane to

Turkey. Many photo chemicals are regulated in transportation as

hazardous materials, which are prohibited in baggage. Such items

must be shipped in proper packages, with correct markings, hazard

labels and documentation, with a transportation company willing to

accept them. The FAA has a public service warning at the following

site: http://cas.faa.gov/cas/these.html . I urge all to review it.

Penalties for violations in the U.S. can be quite severe.

You should make some adjustments through testing, to determine the

developing time and/or chmeicals that suit your needs. For example,

for years I used Microdol-X (1+3 dilution) with Tri-X, for 10.5

minutes at 75 degrees F. This is an adjustment from published times,

and it suited me. I have used Xtol 1+3, and found the published

times okay, but maybe a little short (slightly flat negatives). I

have made some experiments with other formulas and found still other

good ones. The key is to find film/developer combinations that work

for you.

I have enjoyed good old Tri-X at 200 developed in dilute Xtol, with

just a dash of Rodinal. Extremely nice range. Great highlight

detail. Lovely results.

Without hesitation, I would recommend Tri-X. I am pretty experienced

but still have a feeling of discomfort with the T-grain films. Tri-X

is a trustworthy film that allows photographers of all experience

levels to be successful.

The book that Paul Harris refers you to is excellent. As for

developers, I would encourage you to try Xtol, which I am very

impressed with. Dilutions of 1+2 and 1+3 are very good. It has

given better results than Microdol-X which I used in 1+3 for years,

and better than my memory of D-76 from years ago.

--Sam Elkind

I am still a fan of Tri-x. For what it's worth, I have been unable

to get results that I like much with T-Max films. I strongly agree

with the recommendation of Anchell & Troop's "The Film Developing

Cookbook." It's an excellent guide. I am very impressed with Tri-X

in Xtol a new Kodak developer, and this book gives some interesting

discussions of Xtol.

I can only repeat the assurances of others here. I just processed a

roll of Tri-X that went through 3 airport x-rays while in my camera,

and it is just fine -- not a hint of fog. Just the same, I carry

extra and completed rolls in a "Film Shield" lead bag on the

principle that what can go wrong probably will, someday.

I have read of using a little stop bath to clean a tray or bottle

used for developer. But of course thorough rinsing is needed after

that. As for bottles used for stop bath and fixer, I would just use

several rinses with water. I have never heard of using fixer to

clean a bottle that held stop bath. If your bottles are each planned

to contain the same or similar chemicals, several thorough rinses

should be adequate.

Is it possible that the backing or camera allowed some light to leak

in? Did you change the film in unusually bright light? Did the film

roll tightly onto the take-up reel? My first reaction to this dense

streak is a light leak. Maybe others have a better idea.

I have no experience with the film you mention. However, it is

listed on the following site: http://www.digitaltruth.com/.

Unfortunately, as you say, HC-110 is not listed... Maybe not a

success with this film?

Kodak's website has a full data sheet on Xtol. It has an extremely

thorough list of developing times for a variety of formats and a

variety of dilutions. I have been satisfied with both 1:2 and 1:3

dilutions. Kodak recommends a minimum of 100 ml of stock Xtol per

roll of film, whatever your dilution. Try some, it's great.

Another source is the following web address:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/. It seems to have just about any

film/developer combination a persone could want.

Thanks for the posting. Very good information.

A time for APX 25 in Rodinal 1:75 is shown on the unblinkingeye.com.

Found it at this address:

http://www.unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Developers/Times_Rodinal/times_r

odinal.html

 

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I have not used this combination myself.

Anyone have advice for shooting B&W at high altitudes (over 6,000 feet)? I plan to use yellow, orange or red filters, depending on the effect desired. Any special compensations needed for meter readings?

Ryan--

I am especially fond of Tri-X shot at 200. I used to use Microdol-X

at 1:3 for 10-1/2 minutes (75 degrees F). Lately I am using diluted

Xtol (either 1:2 or 1:3), and I have found that the Xtol times on the

Kodak website for Tri-X at 200 give very fine negatives. When

reading with a thru-the-lens meter on my Canon, I make a point of

comparing shadow values and highlight values and setting the exposure

so that it is adequate to give shadow detail -- much like you

describe.

With Tri-x I have long been a fan of Microdol-X diluted 1:3. However

I rate the Tri-X at 200 when using this developer method. My

development time is 10-1/2 minutes at 75 F (24 C). I recently

experimented with Tri-X at 200 in Xtol 1:2 and found the results very

pleasing. As I have learned, however, we choose our favorites based

on subjective criteria. You will have to test it to see.

--Sam