rainer_lucks

<p>I used to at one stage but not anymore. Anything in front of my lens will detract from the full optical quality the lens would normally produce. UV filters are not necessary with digital Cameras these days. Protecting your lens? Just handle with care and respect and you be fine. A UV filter will not stop your lens getting damaged if you knocked it on something solid. It will shatter through and still damage your lens just as it did with me when my lens rolled on top of a hard surface. Just place your protective cap on when not in use and only remove the cap when shooting.</p>

<p>It depends on who's advice you like to choose. Many are ok. One will tell you that a manul option is the way to go and so on. One thing i will stress using manual in a critical photoshoot such as a Wedding. Unless one is very attuned to using manual and can also react quickly in capturing critical shots then it may be ok. Even then you are leaving yourself prone to missing shots because things can happen fairly quickly and you where busy mucking about with manual settings. I there for recommend it best in capturing the moment rather than risk missing them. My recommendation is to keep things simple as possible and concentrate on capturing important moments. To do this i use an auto ISO setting and set it to what i think will give me good quality photos. I tend not to go over an 800 maximum auto ISO setting. I would stick to the normal 60th sec for flash and keep my F stops as low as possible to what my Lens will allow me to do. Generaly between F2.8 and F3.2 when using A P setting. My Flash system would be on TTL fill. This works generaly ok for me with the exeption that i do not always get as good of a flash spread as i would if i was to use Auto. I have not explored as to why it should be other than to think that it has to do with the metering system being applied somewhat differently by the Cameras metering.<br> I tend to never the less like to stick to the A.P setting because i prefer to have control over the F stops and adjust it quickly as a need it at a particular shot in most situations.<br> Each to their own.</p>

<p>Rubbish! Nothing to do with not being able to read ADL in Lightroom. My slightly dull under exposed images taken inside a Church still look the same in NX2 as it does in Lightroom. Thought I had similar settings to yours except that I used minimum iso 100 and maximum 3200 on my D7100 no flash because I preferred to capture the natural feel. Flash was only used on my zoom Lens in FP 125 sec on my other Camera. I am yet to figure out why the 125 FP set speed kept changing to 80 sec e.t.c along with the auto iso? Images appeared fine on the view screen on my Camera and there for trusted it to be ok and not check the histogram. I need to concentrate on my shots like we all do. I re checked all my settings and they appeared to be fine. How ever" I have set the ADL to off as I suspect it may have something to do with it. In particular because I had it happen on both cameras I used with ADL on. Have to run some test shots to confirm this though.<br> As to anything conclusive as to why images have come out darker? Wedding Dress does have an impact as it is white in my case. How ever" It should not render photos noticeably darker for one to do some long hours on the PC with Lightroom balancing them back to where they should have been.<br> I need to do some more reading up on this. Hope you also find the answer.</p> <p> </p>