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stnoonan

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Posts posted by stnoonan

  1. The easiest way to creat perches, imho, is to collect the branches that fall during storms, etc. and insert them into the open cavities of a cinder block. This makes it extremely portable (although I wouldn't want to hike with a block) and sturdy. I have a sample shot of a perch using this method <a href="http://stnphotography.com/nature.html"> on this page, still under construction</a>

     

    <p>Good luck!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  2. Nigel/Richard,

     

    <p>Most swim meet organizers will allow the use of flash, provided it is not during starts/finishes and any diving events. Most meets use a strobe-triggered starting gun and your flash would confuse the timing of that device. Make sure you ask the race organizers before strobing, btw.

     

    <p>My method of lighting is to place strobes (either SB800's or Profoto 2r's, both on pocket wizards) about 8-10 feet from the corners of the pool (to avoid errant splashing) at a 45 degree angle to the swimmers, trying to feather the light on the surface of the water. You will get different exposure values depending on which lane you are shooting, but it generally works pretty well.

     

    <p>I'll attach a sample that I made last Thursday. I haven't tinkered with it yet, but you'll get the idea of the lighting.

     

    <p>Good luck!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  3. Hi Todd,

     

    <p>I use Gaussian blur occasionally and generally like the results. Of course your mileage may vary! Here is what I do:

     

    <li>Duplicate the background layer.

    <li>Apply GB with 10-15 radius to the copied layer.

    <li>Reduce the Opacity of the copied layer to <50%.

    <li>Merge layers.

    <li>USM 100%/1.5/15.

     

    <p>Play around with these values to suit your taste.

     

    <p>Attached is a (really) quickie example. Not sure is you can see it onscreen, but the eyes remain sharp while everything else typically gets soft. You could also work on masking areas off if you want to limit the effect.

     

    <p>Good luck!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a><div>00DcXR-25742384.jpg.45cdb27e9e843b5f074a62bf1864cb0b.jpg</div>

  4. Hi Dave,

     

    <p>You need a 12v to 110-120 power inverter. Luckily you can buy these from lots of places. Check out <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000CNVKQ/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto"> this model from Tripp Lite</a>. This is a newer version of the one I use. 3 outlets, 1200 peak watts. More than enough to handle a couple chargers.

     

    <p>Good luck!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  5. Bonnie,

     

    <p>There are lots of great books out there that should fit your needs. I like these:

     

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280344/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Corrective Lighting and Posing Techniques for Portrait Photographers</a>

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280573/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Master Posing Guide for Portrait Photographers</a>

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823065227/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>The Pro Lighting Series - Portraits</a>

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158428045X/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Professional Secrets of Natural Light Portrait Photography</a>

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158428031X/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Posing and Lighting Techniques for Studio Portrait Photography</a>

    <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280433/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Portrait Photographer's Handbook</a>

     

    <p>Good luck and happy reading!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  6. Hi Jennifer,

     

    <p>I am a life-long resident of Mass. and have done my fair share of weddings on MV. My uncle lives in Oak Bluffs and acts as my agent out there, so I could possibly impart some local knowledge.

     

    <p>First off, I don?t want to scare you off but there is no such thing as a lull in the crowds on MV in the summer (though rental bookings are down considerably this year). August is typically ?New Yorka? month on the island and mid-week crowds are just as bad as weekend crowds. After reading your description of where the couple wants to take pictures, my first reaction was, good luck. Traversing the island from OB to Edgartown could easily take over an hour and a half in the summer, one way. You will want to let the couple know that you are willing to make the images they want so long as they know they are going to miss a great deal of their reception. Ideally you could ask them to take the scenics the day before or after the wedding, if at all possible.

     

    <p>Also, if the couple really wants beach pictures, please know that the public beaches will be crawling with people who would like nothing better than to gather around and watch. They will also make sure that they are in every background of every image you make. My recommendation, if beach shots are a must, is to have the couple arrange access to a private beach (the local Chamber of Commerce has a list) or visit a Trustees of Reservations beach (www.thetrustees.org), which are typically less crowded since they require a membership, or day-fee to visit. Again, just let the couple know that these shots are doable, but they need to be realistic in their expectations.

     

    <p>I would head to Menemsha or Aquinnah for sun-set images, and Cape Poge for nice, uncluttered backgrounds; but again, these locations are a long drive from where the wedding is being held. Working with your location, looking from OB toward Vineyard Haven can make for nice backgrounds at night.

     

    <p>Congrats on a great assignment, and for getting your ferry tickets in advance!

     

    <p>Best of luck,

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  7. How do you become a paparazzi? First you sell your soul to the devil. Second you buy a camera with the money and commence making crappy snapshots of people currently living their in their 15 minutes of fame....

     

    <p>Sorry I couldn't resist!

     

    <p>Really though, I can't imagine getting into the business is much different from getting a freelancing gig with any other magazine or specialist agency.

     

    <p>Regards,

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  8. Gerard,

     

    <p>I'd say you are pretty close with your formula. Your subject's eyes are prominent in this tight of a shot and gives away the ps retouching. I would suggest turning down the master lightness a bit. Other than cloning or healing the red out, I'd say this is a pretty good solution, especially on a subject that doesn't fill the frame.

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  9. Little Star (love the name, btw),

     

    <p>I use Foto Quote Pro and it is easy enough to figure the advertising use, even with all the regional and time considerations. You will need to know the print run of each of the magazines (which you should know for any assignment) and whether they are monthlies or weeklies. Multiply the run by the frequency per year for each magazine, total these up and you have your starting point for any of the software packages. Be aware that the figures you get are for usage only and you also need to carefully consider your expenses as well.

     

    <p>FotoQuote also provides pricing for nearly 20 different types of POS items, including posters. I find PhotoQuote is extremely helpful in establishing a starting point for negotiating a fee, so my recommendation is to buy it.

     

    <p>BTW, this is NOT a commercial for FotoQuote, though I am open to accepting sponsorship. ;)

     

    <p>Good luck,

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

  10. Jemini,

     

    <p>I use the Kirk BH-1 and the sidekick for my 500mm (+1.4tc, 2tc, flash, extenders, etc) and really enjoy using the setup. It handles the load really well and isn't nearly as bulky as the full Wimberly head. It will not help with vibration per se, and you still have to use good long lens technique to make sharp exposures. The full gimbal head will give you greater load capacity, but you give up the ability to quickly switch from your longest lens to your shortest on your tripod (you'll have to remove the head).

     

    <p>Good luck!

     

    <p>Sean

    <br><A href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

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