stnoonan
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Posts posted by stnoonan
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Hi Nathan,
<p>I have noticed a significant differnce in the focusing speed of the two lenses you mentioned. You didn't mention what body you are shooting with, but realize also that the focus speed is due at least in some part to the engine driving the focus motors.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Really nice Christina! How about a little tutorial on how you composited those shots? It looks like you could teach us a few things!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Nigel/Richard,
<p>Most swim meet organizers will allow the use of flash, provided it is not during starts/finishes and any diving events. Most meets use a strobe-triggered starting gun and your flash would confuse the timing of that device. Make sure you ask the race organizers before strobing, btw.
<p>My method of lighting is to place strobes (either SB800's or Profoto 2r's, both on pocket wizards) about 8-10 feet from the corners of the pool (to avoid errant splashing) at a 45 degree angle to the swimmers, trying to feather the light on the surface of the water. You will get different exposure values depending on which lane you are shooting, but it generally works pretty well.
<p>I'll attach a sample that I made last Thursday. I haven't tinkered with it yet, but you'll get the idea of the lighting.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Todd,
<p>I like <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1883403367/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto">Wedding Photography: Art, Business, and Style</a>. It is the closest thing to a good all-in-one I've seen. I'll be interested to hear what other readers have found.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0766817776/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto">Photography</a> by Bruce Warren is another excellent choice. It will let you get as technical as you want while also discussing the more artful aspects of the craft. You can't go wrong with this one.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Todd,
<p>I use Gaussian blur occasionally and generally like the results. Of course your mileage may vary! Here is what I do:
<li>Duplicate the background layer.
<li>Apply GB with 10-15 radius to the copied layer.
<li>Reduce the Opacity of the copied layer to <50%.
<li>Merge layers.
<li>USM 100%/1.5/15.
<p>Play around with these values to suit your taste.
<p>Attached is a (really) quickie example. Not sure is you can see it onscreen, but the eyes remain sharp while everything else typically gets soft. You could also work on masking areas off if you want to limit the effect.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a><div></div>
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Nathan,
<p>Your best bet would be to print off a copy of an email where the Athletic Director (or whomever controls access to the event) grants you express permission to photograph there. I think you will find it difficult to get folks to sign a form just to let you photograph.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Dave,
<p>You need a 12v to 110-120 power inverter. Luckily you can buy these from lots of places. Check out <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000CNVKQ/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto"> this model from Tripp Lite</a>. This is a newer version of the one I use. 3 outlets, 1200 peak watts. More than enough to handle a couple chargers.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Jonathan,
<p>You'll need to look for filters with a "Slim" designation (typically with no front threads) or "Wide Angle" as B+W uses, if you need to use a hood along with the filter (which has a larger front thread than the rear).
<p>Good luck,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Bonnie,
<p>There are lots of great books out there that should fit your needs. I like these:
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280344/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Corrective Lighting and Posing Techniques for Portrait Photographers</a>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280573/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Master Posing Guide for Portrait Photographers</a>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823065227/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>The Pro Lighting Series - Portraits</a>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158428045X/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Professional Secrets of Natural Light Portrait Photography</a>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158428031X/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Posing and Lighting Techniques for Studio Portrait Photography</a>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584280433/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto" target=_blank>Portrait Photographer's Handbook</a>
<p>Good luck and happy reading!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Jennifer,
<p>I am a life-long resident of Mass. and have done my fair share of weddings on MV. My uncle lives in Oak Bluffs and acts as my agent out there, so I could possibly impart some local knowledge.
<p>First off, I don?t want to scare you off but there is no such thing as a lull in the crowds on MV in the summer (though rental bookings are down considerably this year). August is typically ?New Yorka? month on the island and mid-week crowds are just as bad as weekend crowds. After reading your description of where the couple wants to take pictures, my first reaction was, good luck. Traversing the island from OB to Edgartown could easily take over an hour and a half in the summer, one way. You will want to let the couple know that you are willing to make the images they want so long as they know they are going to miss a great deal of their reception. Ideally you could ask them to take the scenics the day before or after the wedding, if at all possible.
<p>Also, if the couple really wants beach pictures, please know that the public beaches will be crawling with people who would like nothing better than to gather around and watch. They will also make sure that they are in every background of every image you make. My recommendation, if beach shots are a must, is to have the couple arrange access to a private beach (the local Chamber of Commerce has a list) or visit a Trustees of Reservations beach (www.thetrustees.org), which are typically less crowded since they require a membership, or day-fee to visit. Again, just let the couple know that these shots are doable, but they need to be realistic in their expectations.
<p>I would head to Menemsha or Aquinnah for sun-set images, and Cape Poge for nice, uncluttered backgrounds; but again, these locations are a long drive from where the wedding is being held. Working with your location, looking from OB toward Vineyard Haven can make for nice backgrounds at night.
<p>Congrats on a great assignment, and for getting your ferry tickets in advance!
<p>Best of luck,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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How do you become a paparazzi? First you sell your soul to the devil. Second you buy a camera with the money and commence making crappy snapshots of people currently living their in their 15 minutes of fame....
<p>Sorry I couldn't resist!
<p>Really though, I can't imagine getting into the business is much different from getting a freelancing gig with any other magazine or specialist agency.
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Kari,
<p>If I'm using a hair light, I often use a flag just over and in front of the camera to cut down stray light. Black foam-core board works great for this too.
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Bill,
<p>Any chance you have a "before" picture to compare this to? If looks like it is possibly just a softening filter, but I've been wrong several times before!
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Gerard,
<p>I'd say you are pretty close with your formula. Your subject's eyes are prominent in this tight of a shot and gives away the ps retouching. I would suggest turning down the master lightness a bit. Other than cloning or healing the red out, I'd say this is a pretty good solution, especially on a subject that doesn't fill the frame.
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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D2X and D2H
in Nikon
<p>Amen Dan.
<p>Rich, I like your wedding work, congrats!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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D2X and D2H
in Nikon
Martin, I've seen the output from both cameras and the D2X's quality is superior. That doesn't mean, however, that the D2H is not the camera for you. I use two and haven't considered upgrading to an X because my output is fine for what I shoot.
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Greg,
<p>Your shutter speed will need to vary by sport and your orientation to the action (head on vs. perdendicular), but a good rule of thumb is about 1/250 as a minimum to stop action without ghosting.
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Little Star (love the name, btw),
<p>I use Foto Quote Pro and it is easy enough to figure the advertising use, even with all the regional and time considerations. You will need to know the print run of each of the magazines (which you should know for any assignment) and whether they are monthlies or weeklies. Multiply the run by the frequency per year for each magazine, total these up and you have your starting point for any of the software packages. Be aware that the figures you get are for usage only and you also need to carefully consider your expenses as well.
<p>FotoQuote also provides pricing for nearly 20 different types of POS items, including posters. I find PhotoQuote is extremely helpful in establishing a starting point for negotiating a fee, so my recommendation is to buy it.
<p>BTW, this is NOT a commercial for FotoQuote, though I am open to accepting sponsorship. ;)
<p>Good luck,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Mark,
<p>Consider buying a top-quality rain gear system like Aquatech or the like. They are pricey depending on which covers you need, but they are worth it. I have no fear bringing my gear out in even the worst conditions. They also happen to look a whole lot more professional than plastic bags too!
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Have a look at <a href="http://stnphotography.com/tips.html">this page</a>. Sounds like a good starting place for you.
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Joe,
<p>I'm not sure what you mean by "will work as a straight slave to another flash", but if you mean can it be triggered by another flash, the answer is yes. You can put the unit into SU-4 mode and it operates as an optical slave.
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Jemini,
<p>I use the Kirk BH-1 and the sidekick for my 500mm (+1.4tc, 2tc, flash, extenders, etc) and really enjoy using the setup. It handles the load really well and isn't nearly as bulky as the full Wimberly head. It will not help with vibration per se, and you still have to use good long lens technique to make sharp exposures. The full gimbal head will give you greater load capacity, but you give up the ability to quickly switch from your longest lens to your shortest on your tripod (you'll have to remove the head).
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><A href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
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Hi Derek,
<p>Were the pictures from the N80 also printed at Ritz? Was the F5 on a tripod? It is a fairly heavy camera, as I'm sure you are aware, so shutter speed will have an effect if you were hand-holding.
<p>Regards,
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>
perches and places to stand
in Nature
Posted
The easiest way to creat perches, imho, is to collect the branches that fall during storms, etc. and insert them into the open cavities of a cinder block. This makes it extremely portable (although I wouldn't want to hike with a block) and sturdy. I have a sample shot of a perch using this method <a href="http://stnphotography.com/nature.html"> on this page, still under construction</a>
<p>Good luck!
<p>Sean
<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>