collin_krabbe

<p>Its not an issue with the rewind mechanism, and I dont know what else to do.</p>

<p>at this point, I am going to just buy a new body, since I already have a lens anyway. my options seem to be a zorki 4 or a FED 5B, any opinions either way?</p>

<p>Within having my beloved Zorki 4k for a few hours, I managed to break it.<br>

The winding mechanism just goes freely without much tension, I cant move the shutter speed past like 1/15 of a second, and the shutter curtain is stuck closed, plus the shutter wont even fire. When I push the rewind knob down, nothing happens. Any ideas? <br>

Also, since im not counting on it being fixed, would a FED 5/5b/5v be a good replacement? And would my m39 mount Industar 50 lens which came with the Zorki 4k fit on it?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Collin</p>

I think i want to try stand developing. Which is better in terms of grain, hc110 or adonal/rodinal? With stand being so

long, im not very worried about contrast. Also where to buy hc110/rodinal?

<p>So I have some 100 iso TMAX 120 film that I will be shooting on a clear bright sunny day. It will be shot with a Holga 120 so obviously, I am limited to basically the same apertures and the same shutter speed, essentially.<br>

What I need to know is, what would be the best chemistry combination to obtain minimal grain, and quite a bit of contrast. I currently use D76, but of course I am open to other suggestions.<br>

I realize this is all subjective to the user, but all opinions are appreciated.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Collin</p>

<p>My new website, I tried to make it simple with little extra going on.</p>

<p>krabbephotography.com</p>

<p>So I have began to see some interest in people wanting to buy my prints. I've got a few questions about the equipment I'm going to need for printing digitally. I shoot both 35mm and 120 film. I need a scanner, a wide-format printer, some matting supplies, and some good photo paper to start out printing on. I do both color and B&W by the way. My total budget is about $800. Any recommendations would be great! </p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I recently bought an old Argoflex E TLR off eBay in "working condition". Low and behold, everything works, besides the shutter. I am too afraid to dig into the lens. It seems to be stuck OPEN, like it is on permanent T or B mode. No matter what shutter speed i set it on, the shutter will not come down. I am going to assume that it is not missing because it is inside the lens itself, right? Is this something that a camera repair shop could fix? <br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks so much! I've actually found an older GE-PR 1 for very cheap on eBay that I will probably pick up, since they have a reputation for being good meters. </p>

<p>So I am planning on buying and keeping a couple of antique cameras. I have been looking into TLR and found an Argoflex E for cheap, and after reading good things about it, bought it. I am also planning on buying a Zeiss Ikon Nettar f 4.5 camera off of eBay. My real question here is, can I use an external light meter to figure out the correct exposure for these cameras? More specifically, an older DLSR that is no longer used...?<br>

Thanks in advance!</p>