russel_grainger

<p>Thanks so much for the info ill take it all onboard, sadly I won't be buying any new or different developers soon as I have 2 litres of original Agfa Rodinal I have to get through first.<br>

Just out of curiosity, Ill be scanning the majority of my negs should I be developing my negs differently for scanning over using an enlarger ?</p>

<p>Hi guys I'm confused on a few things. <br>

Im just about to load a roll of 35mm hp5+ into my camera and Im unsure how to rate it ?<br>

I have heard/read to rate it at 320iso and not box speed. Why is this ? <br>

Also if rating it at 320iso is the way to go how come the so called massive dev chart does not have this combo for such a popular film and my developer of choice "Agfa Rodinal" ? (The original stuff a school teacher had some unopened bottles and gave them to me)<br>

I have also heard to rate the film at 320iso and develop it for the times i find for this film at 400iso.<br>

Which is correct ?<br>

Sorry to ask but I would love to hear your times/recommendations for this film and this developer if possible. <br>

Im also using a yellow filter on the front and shooting pretty but all outdoors.</p>

<p>Thanks for the response guys, I understand the film will be pretty bad hence the reason i just through it in a box brownie for a few random shots and if anything is to turn out it will be a bonus. <br>

I was just curious to as why film companies do not give this base info for normal contrast or high contrast anymore.<br>

I sometimes go for a longer development for a bit more contrast but I didnt know that you could go that much onger on dev times, 8 mins just seemed crazy to me and I would of thought you'd of got a neg which was rendered useless.</p>

<p>Today I bought a very old roll of Ilford Hp5 the expiry date on the film box was 1989, after opening it and reading the info sheet inside I found it interested that Ilford gave to different times for normal contrast and high contrast. <br>

The high contrast time for this roll of hp5 in 1d-11 1:3 is 22mins for normal contrast and 30mins for high contrast.<br>

I looked this modern combo up on my digital truth app on my iphone and it gives a time of 20mins, whats makes the modern version of this film different to the old one as the starting point time is 2 mins less than the old time for a normal contrast neg.</p>

<p>Also will this film still be ok to use ? it was in the box and in great condition, I only put it in my Brownie "E" as its not worth using it on anything serious.</p>

<p>So I have been using Agfa Rodinal since I first got into developing like 6 months ago, I have always thought my negs looks good but a little grainy I mostly use Ilford fp4+ and hp5+.<br>

I am yet to do any big prints, but from my scans I like what I see as mentioned they are grainy (Im not a hater of grain). I rate my films hp5 at 320iso and my fp4 at 64iso, I only use 1:50 dilution in a tank and my process is to invert the tank for the first 30 seconds and 4 inversions (which equals about 10 seconds) every minute.<br>

A few days ago I was doing some research into times for this developer and films , to my surprise I come across more negative feedback than good feedback. I thought Rodinal was a great developer but it seems people say its give true grain results and even enhances it ? <br>

I understand that everyone has there personal opinion and preference but the ilford/rodinal combo did not get the rave reviews I was expecting. <br>

So what are the ideal films to be used with Rodinal ? </p>

<p>Im only using one camera Canon Eos 1vhs, and all primes, 24 1.4, 35 1.4, 50 1.2, 85 1.2, 100 2.8 and 135 2 at the moment.<br>

If i was to borrow a colour checker off a friend its the small passport one but has black to white on one of the scales and do test rolls with different brackets will that help me find where mt camera is at its best and kind of calibrate it ?</p>

<p>So im new to B&W developing/processing and I have been reading lots of things lately but with no real explanation, Ive never bee to uni, tafe or photography school so I have lost of questions.<br>

I mostly use Ilford films so my questions will have information about these.</p>

<ol>

<li>Why do people rate films differently to box speed ? ie: Hp5+ 400 but I have heard people rate it at 320</li>

<li>Why do people use different rates for different lighting conditions ? ie: I seen people rate 400 films to 320 or if the light is contrasty they go even slower 250 200,I have seen people mention this about fp4 also going as low as 50.</li>

<li>Even thou people rate film differently why would you not develop as stated on the ilford sites ie: even if its rated 350 why would you not process it as if it was 400 speed like the charts say and if you did what would happen ?</li>

<li>What are slow films and what are medium films ? I see fp4 is mentions as medium but if your rating it at 50,64 or even 80 surely thats slow and hp5 mentioned at being high but the speed is not that great compared to say 400 to 3200 ?</li>

<li>Some Ilford developers are mentioned on there site as saying :increases film speed or fine grain developer giving full film speed, what does this mean ?</li>

<li>Finally I have seen on the Ilford website that some developers will give different results, but what are the trade offs ? ie: Finest grain Ilfortec DD-X, Maximum Sharpness Ifosol S and Maximum Film Speed (Which I have no idea what it means) Ilfortec DD-X.</li>

</ol>

<p>Any help would be great as I really would like to get into B&W a lot more.</p>

<p>Hey Guys Im new to this and I already have a million questions but one that has me puzzled is should I believe what The Massive Dev Chart on the Digital Truth says ?<br>

I have just bought some Ilford hp5+ and my friend said to rate it at 320 as ill get better shadow detail, so I've done that now I have lots of rolls of film I want to develop but the digital truth is giving me mixed opinions <br>

So in I put Hp5+ Rodinal 1:25 dilution and the times seem wrong<br>

1:25 200iso 5mins at 20c<br>

1:25 320iso 15mins at 20c<br>

1:25 400iso 6mins at 20c<br>

1:25 800iso 8mins at 20c<br>

1:25 1600iso 12mins at 20c<br>

How is there such a difference between 320iso and all the rest surly its a mistake ?<br>

Also I have a freinds who are full time photographers around the same age 1 taught me the basics of how to develop and look for the times on the net and the massive dev chart the other says it does not matter what you rate the film at you just develop it as if it was what ilford say on there chart for there box speed <br>

Are they both kinda of right ? as I used to shoot velvia at rate it 32iso but get it developed at 50iso so I can see what the second friend is saying any help would be great.</p>