robert_goss_kennedy

<p>I would try another lens first. If the lens is losing contact with the body during that burst shooting, it could explain the dropped frames. Always try another lens first and then see about sending the body in.</p>

<p>Does it do this with other lenses?<br>

I get [Err] when my lenses aren't mounted right.</p>

<p>OK, now I have this black cat and a dark room....</p>

<p>That jpeg is pretty small to determine if it is soft or not. Can you post an image from a section at 100% magnification? </p>

<p>Also, what 85mm lens do you have on it?</p>

<p>You have to get Eneloops. I run them on my SB600, and they just last and last and last. Fast recycle and it stays very steady. They also drain slowly sitting in the bag.<br>

The new Eneloops are the Eneloop XX. B&H has them in the US. They are 2500mah versus 1900/2000 (I have bought packs with varying numbers on them...) If they are even slightly better than the regular ones they are worth it. Seriously worth the rather minimal investment. </p>

 

<p>Anyone else remember when this just meant the camera was broken?</p>

<p><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/21344_548784511804491_391967371_n.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640" />Juno at 8 Weeks.<br>

D800 35mm/2.0</p>

<p>A part-time job so the camera can pay for itself...</p>

 

<p>The D600 and the D800 appear to use the same focusing screen.<br>

"Type B BriteView Clear Matte Mark VIII screen with AF area brackets and framing grid"<br>

D600<br /><br>

http://chsvimg.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d600/pdf/d600_20p.pdf<br>

D800<br /><br>

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d800/spec.htm<br>

<br>

The issue is probably more to do with the mirror and the display lines on it. The D800 has more AF and metering points, so more lines etched into. More etching = less "mirror" to reflect light.<br /><br>

Just a guess there...but the screens themselves are the exact same.<br /></p>

<p>Also, remember to update your readers! I just upgraded to a USB 3.0 CF/SD reader (Lexar) and it made such a difference. </p>

 

<p>I would go through and do the following to cover yourself here -<br>

<br />1 - Go through all the relevant settings and change to something else. So, RAW+JPG to just RAW, and make sure it is set to save to just the CF card. <br>

2 - Turn it off. Turn it on. Shoot a few frames. <br>

3- Go in and change your settings back to RAW+JPG. <br>

4 - Turn it off. Turn it on. See if that fixes anything.</p>

<p>That should fix it. It fixes 99% of problems like this.<br>

If it doesn't I would see what happens if you set it to just JPG. If the same issue occurs, then talk to Nikon.</p>

 

<p>Heh, reminds me of one guy I know...<br>

He was a pro and a model call out, and one of the models stated that she only worked with people with "the following cameras...because that is what the pros use..."<br>

Needless to say, she didn't get the job...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yeah, the LiveView button is nice.</p>

<p>I have had issues with the AF selector button. I used a D80 previously and keep forgetting that the switch also has a button on it! So I end up searching like crazy on top of the camera until I realize my mistake!</p>

<p>Good info here.</p>

<p>Simple rule of thumb -<br>

Stay in Adobe RGB until you need to move down to sRGB.<br>

Adobe RGB = Print<br>

sRGB = Web</p>

<p>There are some monitors out now that can do Adobe RGB that are coming in at around $600US. Keep an eye out for them in the future. They used to be much more expensive but are dropping slowly but surely in price. </p>

<blockquote>Spending all that money on a D800 today cuts into the money most people have for future purchases. If the D800 is a necessity today for making money, buy it. The OP said hobby. I am also a hobby picture taker. In that light, the D800 does not hold a candle to a D7000 and the camera I will get in 3 years with the money I have saved. Again, I am in this for the long haul. The Mayan calender end of the world did not happen. I was happy with a D70s and did not need a D80 or D90, which left me money for the D7000. With my frequency of buying cameras, my next purchase will be a 50mp crop body! LOL</blockquote>

<p>I disagree. I went from a D80 to the D800. The idea that the D800 has a 3 year life-cycle is incorrect. I can see myself using it in 10 years. The MP on it is just ridiculous and will be hard to beat for a while. It is also very well built. Unlike the cheaper Nikons. It reminds me more of an old F2 body in many ways than the newer D(whatever) bodies. And the shutter...dear lord, you can hear the quality in it. It is an almost pornographic sound it is so perfect. <br>

Yes, the D800 is 3x the price of the D7000. And the D7000 is a great camera. But the $2,000 you "save" isn't really a savings. You are actually getting more for that money. A lot more. Hell, it even has a PC socket! No more weird little hotshoe things! Under equal use, the D800 will outlast and outperform the D7000. And it will last me far more than 3 years.<br>

That said, you do make a good point in that there is no point in buying beyond what you need. I got to a point where my 6 year-old D80 wasn't keeping up with my work. My D800 should go to 10 years easily. Which, on a 3 year cycle = Well, what you would pay today in cheaper cameras. <br>

Of course I also have an F2 and two FT bodies and all the lenses I still keep around....</p>

<p>Those were some solid cameras...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think you will be immensely pleased with the D800. I am 2000+ frames into my D800 and I am in love with it. I can see myself using this camera for 10 years+. <br>

Be warned though, it will make a lot of PCs out there groan in displeasure. The RAW files are insane. </p>

<p>I agree with Pat and the others. The Eye-fi is awful...just not worth it. It is insanely slow, and the interface is a joke. It may work for uploading JPEGs straight to whatever site they have a deal with, but it is not for transfering RAW files around. It couldn't do it on my D80. It would just get one or two files up an hour. And this is me working a few feet away from my router. It also drains your battery because you have to set the sleep mode timer to off. So the camera is always awake and sucking down power. I noticed a big difference. My D800 will never have that thing in it. <br>

The USB cable is your best option. Wireless anything is usually slower than wired anything now. And wired is cheaper. In fact, for the money, you could get a cheap laptop with a good sized hdd and a long USB cable for what Nikon charges for their WiFi module. Literally use it as a dedicated "shooting PC." </p>

<p> </p>