sam_clay

Actually the penny may have just dropped! If I put the camera in manual mode and set the shutter to 1/6th and leave it at that, Iso 400, then set the aperture according to depth I want then the Ttl should expose the shot correctly? Given that it's the aperture which controls the power of flash, so long as I stay within the distance the flash suggests I should be ok? And that would give me a bit more control then if in P? Remember in this instance I am trying to get good exposure quickly candid documentary style. Basic stuff. Is this good?

Hiya I am worried. I have been a fairly successful natural light photographer for around a year, portraits etc, lifestyle documentary. However, I have been invited to shoot a wedding this weekend. don't worry it's unpaid for work experience, but being a perfectionist I want to get the indoor/church shots nailed as best possible. I have a nikon D600 and D3100. I own the 70-200 Vr11, the 35mm 1.4, 60mm macro (myvfavourite believe it or not), the 85 1.8, and some bog standards which will stay at home. I have the Sb700 and a sb40 flash. I was hoping for some help. Because I am.new to flash. I understand this - aperture controls flash power dependant on distance to subject etc, and shutter controls ambient. Thing is, I want to use TTL in the church. I understand that in keeping the camera in manual and setting it up to 3 steps underexposed - Ttl will deal with the situation fairly well. (confirmation?) However, for the church I may just put the camera in P mode and basically let the camera and flash do the thinking. Also in matrix metering. Reason being, is this part of the wedding I want to be quick candid documentary style. I won't have the time like I usually do to do much else. The lighting isn't great. Based on the lens I have mentioned what would you use in this tiny church (I fear my flash isn't powerful enough at 200mm?). My other question is this: I am so worried that if I use my 70-200 on P mode the camera will get it wrong. Basically I need crystal.clear sharp shots using flash quickly in Ttl. Maybe aperture priority? So I control depth or will thisbhave no consequence with TTL? I am.fine in natural light and can be very creative - the church I just want quick well exposed shots using Ttl. What modes would you suggest I use, which lens and why? I know many people scorn P or automatic, but I need to keep this part as simple as possible given my limited flash experience. Help Very much appreciated. Like I say - it's for a friend free of charge..... I am studying flash. This part worries me. Many thanks

Thanks guys - question for Devon - my camera has auto fp though which from.my understanding enables the flash to work at even higher shutter speeds? I guess when you are using higher shutter speeds over the sync speed this is fill flash built for sunny days.....

<p>GOTCHA !! Thanks ! I understand.</p>

<p>does "sync" mean that if I take a shot at 1/60th of a second or even lower - that it "sync" with the flash, basically meaning that even if I shoot at slow shutter speed the flash will make freeze motion in the same way as if it were 1/200th ? sorry its all a bit confusing.</p>

<p>Hiya,</p> <p>just wondering what I should do please ?<br> The 70-200 VR11 Nikon is a fab lens, but I want to use it in low light with flash but try not to push the ISO too high on my D600.<br> Problem is, to get a clear in focus shot at 200mm, we all (well some of us know), we should set the shutter to at least 1/200th to get that clear shot and not worry about blur (given subject is still) etc.<br> if I put the flash on, (SB700)......In low light, the camera for example says 1/60th of a second for correct exposure, even wide open at 1.8, which means I would have to push the ISO right up to get to the 1/200th I want ideally.<br> with the flash at say 1/60th using TTL would that help freeze it which means I would have to pay less attention to getting up to 1/200th</p> <p>is there anything i can do with this in mind ? does the flash mean I don't have to push the shutter speed up to 1/200th ?<br> thanks for advice </p> <p> </p>

Ah I see - really terrific answers! It appears I may have over complicated things in my head as it actually seems very straight forward x thanks so.much guys that really really helps me!!

<p>Hiya<br> wondering if someone can help me out.<br> I have just started to take my SB700 flash off the camera and sit it in a soft box to take portraits to the next level.<br> I understand that TTL is through the camera, and because i like to work quickly, and i understand TTL is pretty good, I want to explore this avenue further.<br> I have the pocket wizard set up and the AC3 for compensation ease etc.<br> i watched several YOUTUBE videos of this guy called Rick Salmon who is quite the master at TTL flash amongst other things, but he never quite explains it fully. Flash on TTL, Camera on manual.<br> He says to expose for the background and then shoot away. However, how close should the soft box be from the model ? and at what distance can i use my 70-200 VR11 for example ? I am supposing that if i expose for either the model or background standing at the same distance as the soft box, that I could then stand at ANY distance to take the shot because the flash would be the main source of light ?<br> I apologise if I am getting this all wrong. I would really like someone to explain a little to me about this if possible. Its easy to compensate the flash with the AC3, but i still am unaware about distance of soft box and camera and why ?<br> any help much appreciated. Practice makes perfect I know, but if there is a bit more info from anyone then that would be great. WhEn on TTL the flash tells me something like 4.8 ft - 5ft for example ? is this the distance the soft box should be ?<br> I also understand that a fast shutter at 250th and 8 f stop for example should kill the ambient light and light the model to stand out.....<br> I could be wrong and any further information would be a great help. I apologise if i am getting this all wrong, but I am finding it hard to get my head around.<br> thank you</p> <p> </p>

<p>thanks guys very helpful - damn Facebook !! I hate the thing but its good for marketing - will play around a bit thanks again</p>

Hi guys Bit of a problem. I shoot in Rsw, then do.my edits. I do use florabella actions some of the time to add flare and textures etc, and also mix it with my own editing as well. I do flatten the image sometimes.more then once to rid myself of the florabella layers and then dodge and burn onto flattened image. Final image saved as roughly a 12mb image and looks clean and fabulous on my large Mac screen. Then I want to add on my Facebook page so I use either the florabella resize for Facebook or another action. I then save as PNG file. Looks great again if displayed on my screen. Add to facebook??? Looks rubbish (well only to my well adjusted eye). I don't get it!!! Can someone please help? If a picture has plenty of editing does it lose quality somehow? If so, why does it still look great on my screen and bit rubbish on Facebook? Is there are a number of actions and layers or flattening that is too much? Any help here greatly appreciated! Thanks