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jessica_jones7

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Posts posted by jessica_jones7

  1. <p>Hello!<br />I acquired a converted Polaroid 110A a while back and for a few months the shutter was broken in that it wouldn't stay cocked, so to shoot photos I would hold the shutter lever myself and let it go swiftly.<br />NOW the shutter suddenly will stay cocked so I can use the lever button that releases the shutter. When I do this, though, the shutter lever gets caught half-way through release until I release the button. This tends to cause a bad motion blur from pushing and releasing the hefty button.<br />My question is, is there a setting somewhere that is causing the lever to get caught half-way through release? It never stopped half-way through when I had to manually release the shutter, UNLESS I had the speed set to a long exposure time. Even at 1/300 the lever stops half-way until I release the button.</p>
  2. <p>Hello!<br>

    I acquired a converted Polaroid 110A a while back and for a few months the shutter was broken in that it wouldn't stay cocked, so to shoot photos I would hold the shutter lever myself and let it go swiftly.<br>

    NOW the shutter suddenly will stay cocked so I can use the lever button that releases the shutter. When I do this, though, the shutter lever gets caught half-way through release until I release the button. This tends to cause a bad motion blur from pushing and releasing the hefty button.<br>

    My question is, is there a setting somewhere that is causing the lever to get caught half-way through release? It never stopped half-way through when I had to manually release the shutter, UNLESS I had the speed set to a long exposure time. Even at 1/300 the lever stops half-way until I release the button.</p>

  3. <p>I am an avid ebay-watcher, but I haven't had any luck in bidding. I thought I would refer to my Photo.net friends to see if anyone on here has a Polaroid #583A close-up lens they want to get rid of! Otherwise I may have to settle with buying one of the cheaper lenses for my 100 and set aside my 450.</p>

    <p>Have a great day!</p>

  4. <p>Alright it sounds like Manfrotto is the winner, hands down. Ball heads too... so you purchase that separately? Would you advise looking on ebay? Or would that be an untrustworthy way to go. I usually purchase most supplies there but I don't know the lifespan of tripods or heads to understand the used value.</p>
  5. <p>I am a hobbyist photographer who travels regularly and would like to see if anyone has recommendations of tripods within a budget. I know it is all personal preference so maybe some background info will lead to a few helpful hints that Photo.net folks always seem to follow through on!<br>

    I am 5'5", I shoot in a studio but not often, mostly on excursions but probably use a (borrowed) tripod only half of the time. I shoot film SLRS and toy cameras. I do not own very heavy lenses, but want something sturdy enough for long exposure shots. Lugging a tripod is always a hassle but because I don't use one all the time I can suffer some weight if need-be.<br>

    Also I'm a student so I cannot afford to spend more than a few hundred (if even) on a tripod, and will consider an upgrade later in life. :) Perhaps a used tripod would be the best bet, but after researching all of the many brands on this site I am hoping you all could help me narrow it down a bit. Thanks in advance!</p>

    <p>Jess</p>

  6. <p>It is a T32 flash, but I like the idea of constant light source. Some kind of halogen or lamp lighting would be ideal, but I don't even know how to begin. Umbrellas, reflectors.. I really just want the basics. I will definitely look into that book! I like to build things so even if I can gather items together myself to set something up that would be fine too. Or I guess I could just go to Home Depot & purchase a really larch lamp, haha.</p>
  7. <p>We shoot all kinds of assignments... portraits, scenery, product etc... and they have all been non-flash photos. I just hate having to rush home in the evening trying to beat the rain or the sun to try & shoot my assignments. It will turn out I have one day to do it & suddenly its thunderstorming & I have no light to work with.<br>

    I will look into the flash being off of the camera, I do not have any experience with bouncing it or how that begins. Regarding the film vs. digital, all I was inquiring was if my Olympus flash was able to work off the camera, since it is so old, I wasn't sure of its capabilities. Thank you for all the responses!</p>

  8. <p>I have been navigating my way around different posts from people looking for suggestions on lighting accessories for their shooting, and have then been directed to a few different helpful websites including Strobist which was quite informative. However, a lot of the suggestions include recommendations based on the individuals DSLR flash, and I am curious as to the possibilities available to me shooting a 35mm SLR camera.<br>

    Primarily I shoot with an Olympus OM1n with the basic removable Olympus flash for that camera. I am almost always on a time crunch when I shoot for a school assignment & more often than not end up with less than the desired lighting for projects, indoors or out. As a student my budget isn't large, but I am not going to waste money on a cheap kit or anything, so I want to start with some basics and over time I will build on that, so any recommendations on where to start would be fantastic!<br>

    Thanks!</p>

  9. I cut these photos in half in my mac's quick view because they post so large on here, or I just don't know how

    to do it correctly, but even viewing in 100% you can see all the horrible flaws of the scans, just as much as on

    my tiny prints. I haven't said anything to the lab yet, and it was a professional developing lab, not a pharmacy

    that I usually go to, in the case that my negatives don't scan well at school either.

     

    Darin I love my Olympus! It hasn't failed me yet, so I really couldn't believe the fault could be placed on it. I do

    think the contrast and color is just terrible.

     

    I am hoping that for the future, my own personal scanner will do the trick, unless it is likely that it wouldn't be

    much better than what I got from the lab.

  10. <p>I haven't used flash often, but I would like the option & love so much for my gadgets & gizmos to have all of their original parts. So I purchased the cracked one & it will just have to do! Thank you for all of the advice!</p>
  11. <p>Lex I had no idea you could grab that kind of information from the image like that! In a lot of the photos with people in them, it looks like they've got almost a duplicate ghost image outlining them, like a really messed up digital image. When I try and zoom in it's all pixels but it also looks like it's a scan from the print and not even the negative, like the bumps from the paper are present, but what do I know.<br /> Greg, holding up the slide film to the light, it looks bright and colorful. I use a darkroom at the university for my black & white prints, but they have a scanner I have yet to venture over to. I think I may take my negatives there & try out the scanner.<br /> I'd love to purchase my own one day but since I'm new to that I don't want to end up shelling out too much money for a crappy product. I've noticed more and more smaller handheld negative scanners popping up on the market, but I also have polaroid negatives I would love to scan as well so I will definitely need something more suitable for that.</p>
  12. <p>I have been shooting with an Olympus OM1n, and recently purchased a 24mm lens for a trip to Ireland with my family. Typically I shoot C41 film and get it developed at Walgreens, when I am not printing B&W film myself at school. I took some slide film and Porta, slide film, and Fuji with me to Ireland for better photos, and paid for them to be printed and scanned at our only professional lab here in Jacksonville.<br /> Over 2 weeks later I get the scans and prints back and they look TERRIBLE. They are grainy & so flat in color, it literally looks pixel-ized in the prints and the scans. I don't know if it is a mistake on my part, or if there is a problem with my new lens or maybe suddenly I am a terrible photographer. All I know is they look awful and I am terribly bummed.<br /> I was hoping for an opinion or two. I know you cannot tell much from the computer, but you really have no room for zooming in either because of how pixel-ized it looks. Any advice would be appreciated!</p>

    <p><img src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b377/killer___tofu/25070004_zps1f9b11e0.jpg" alt="" width="772" height="512" /><br>

    <img src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b377/killer___tofu/25070003_zps04112c08.jpg" alt="" width="772" height="512" /><br>

    <img src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b377/killer___tofu/25070001_zps97a0f596.jpg" alt="" width="772" height="512" /></p>

  13. <p>Hello all!<br>

    I lost my OM1n flash shoe while traveling & while looking to find one on Ebay I have noticed the different styles. Does it have to be the exact same shoe for it to fit on my camera and then to the flash?<br>

    Thank you!</p>

  14. <p>Thank you Mukul! The original photo actually had included part of the window. I printed this myself in the dark room and just could not break white with the window, so I enlarged it to crop it out for the print!</p>
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