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k_m20

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Posts posted by k_m20

    Elliptical marks on scans

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys,</p>

    <p>I've recently bought some rodinal and started developing black and white film again. I shot one roll on my Nikon F3HP, and some on my Leica M6. After developing and scanning the film, I've noticed these strange ellipitical marks on some of the photos, like tree circles.</p>

    <p>I am developing using Rodinal. I do not notice any spots on the film that correspond with these elliptical marks. There are some water marks on the film (despite my using Ilfotol, water smears and dries on the film). But I used to develop without using any washing agent and never had those marks, so I'm not sure it's water residue. Also it happened with film shot on both cameras so I doubt it's either camera. Is it the scanner? I'm using a Epson V600. Do any of you have experience with these marks?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br /><img src="http://s29.postimg.org/84s8u8do7/photoerror2.jpg" alt="" width="790" height="467" /></p>

    M6 Classic RF patch when vertical

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys,</p>

    <p>I just got a Leica M6, and so far I love it! The viewfinder is taking a little getting used to, but it's getting easier by the minute. I just have a question about the rangefinder patch when I hold the camera vertically. It is very difficult to see any split-image movement when I hold the camera vertically. I'm not sure if this is normal, but it causes me to focus with the camera held horizontally before then turning the camera vertically to take the picture. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?</p>

    <p>Leica M6 0.72x with 35mm lens.</p>

    Thinking of buying the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZM for use with M6

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Richard G, I have decided to get the Zeiss C Biogon f/2.8 (I think). I have looked up a lot of photos and literally do not see any difference with the summicrons. Certainly not $1000 difference. This way I can maybe buy a better scanner too.</p>

    <p>For all the summicron users, if money was no object I probably would have bought the 'cron just to be safe. But I really don't see the extra sharpness in the results. Steve McCurry took some of the sharpest photos ever on 35mm film, and used a Nikon SLR system. The sharpness of Leicas seem a bit overrated, but I guess I won't know 'til I actually try a 35mm cron!</p>

    35mm lens sharp as Summicron?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys, I've been considering getting a 35mm lens for the Leica M6 (I'm between a Summicron or a Zeiss Biogon). Most people say don't bother with the Biogon and just fork out the extra cash for the Summicron. Used, in EX+ condition, a Summicron 35mm runs over $1,700.</p>

    <p>So, I've been thinking maybe I should just get a 35mm lens for my Nikon F3. Does Nikon have a 35mm lens as good or better than the Summicron, for a fraction of the price? Since just about all Nikon lenses will run much cheaper than Leicas, I figured I'd ask.</p>

    Getting deep, contained shadows with Slide Film

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Thinking of buying the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZM for use with M6

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for the great responses, everybody.</p>

    <p>The cheapest 35 mm Summicron I see on KEH, in EX+ condition, is http://www.keh.com/camera/Leica-M-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-LM069990071450?r=FE</p>

    <p>Can anyone give me a lowdown on what "Version" of the lens that is and what they think of it? The KenRockwell review of the Zeiss lenses really made the Summicrons sounds like overpriced lenses for people that were splurging for name alone. I'm kind of confused now.</p>

    Getting deep, contained shadows with Slide Film

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for the great responses, Bernard and Gareth.</p>

    <p>Bernard: I've been thinking of investing in a better scanner. But the age of most of these Nikon film scanners worries me a bit. Is the Coolscan V worth getting, and what should I look for in buying one off eBay? Is it good for slides/are any scanners? Drum scanners seem to be in the thousands of dollars, which I can't afford.<br>

    Also, a lot of the Photoshop stuff you said went right over my head, to be honest.</p>

    Thinking of buying the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZM for use with M6

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hey Barry, <br /> your portfolio has some great shots. They look like slides, which I shoot as well. The problem with searching google, I've noticed, is that I've searched both Summicrons and Zeiss lenses, and found good and bad shots of each (not just compositionally, but in terms of sharpness, color, etc.) I take it some people are processing incorrectly, scanning poorly, or some other issues. I have trouble basing my decision on just their shots when there are so many variables I don't know.</p>

    Getting deep, contained shadows with Slide Film

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys,</p>

    <p>I've been shooting slides for about 6 months now. I'm past the learning curve of getting the right exposure, which is not easy on slides. What I want to know is, after looking at some of my favorite photographers, how do they get such black and contained shadows while keeping the colored areas perfectly uncorrupted. </p>

    <p>For examples of what I mean, think of some of the shots in Divided Soul by David Alan Harvey, the ones with lots of black. The one of the 2 hispanic people in front of a pink and green wall with the dark dark shadow of a wooden fence comes to mind.<br>

    Also shots by Harry Gruyaert. The one of a fruit stand with a guy in an orange sweater (his face completely covered in shadow) with a large container of lemons nearby comes to mind.<br>

    I think you guys all know the style I'm talking about, but I'm not uploading photos because I've been told that's against forum policy.</p>

    <p>Is this look only possible with advance printing techniques like dye transfer process? Or can it be achieved in Photoshop? Is it as simple as adjusting black levels and contrast?<br>

    I know most of the work is in the slide itself, but surely these guys are doing some processing.</p>

    <p>I am shooting Velvia 100 and scanning with an EPSON V600 flatbed and using photoshop (the AutoColor and AutoTone functions) to remove the orangey color cast from the scanner. This gets it pretty close to what is on the slide. I still get dark shadows, and the slides have the checkered light characteristic of that style of photography, but I can't get it to look quite as good. The blacks occasionally have a faded purple to them, or the colors lose their detail if I mess around too much. Is my trouble mainly that the scanner lacks the sharpness to render the slides as detailed?<br>

    Any thoughts on the matter are welcome.</p>

    Thinking of buying the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZM for use with M6

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>I'm thinking of buying the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZM lens for use with the Leica M6. I'm looking for a 35mm lens, and after reading KenRockwell's review of the lens, he seems to think it is a better lens than the Summicron-M 35mm (1979-1996) and about comparable to the Summicron-M ASPH 35mm.<br /> He has similarly positive things to say about the Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 ZM.</p>

    <p>I have read some user reviews of both the Zeiss f/2 and f/2.8, and some users say they like the "3D" look the lens gives, characteristic of all Zeiss lenses. What does this mean exactly?<br /> What are your guys' experiences with these two Zeiss lenses?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>Also, I'm not really bothered by the awkward 43mm filter size.</p>

    Slide Film (Velvia) Shadows

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>I've recently started shooting Velvia 100 slides with my Nikon F3HP. My lens is a f/2 50mm.<br /> I'm a big fan of Alex Webb, as I'm sure most people who shoot slides are. I know that he used to use Kodachrome before switching to digital. I use Velvia since it's about the only slide film around anymore.</p>

    <p>Anyway, I was wondering how he gets the shadows to be so dark and black (with some details still in them), while the other areas are accurately exposed (not overexposed at all). When I get back similar shots, the shadowy areas look good on the negative, but after the scan they usually have some blurry tint (orangey or bluish etc.) or they just rarely look as clean as his. Just turning the contrast up doesn't get the same effect either. I'm not sure if the fault is on the negative or during the scan. I scan with a Epson V600.</p>

    <p>If anyone has any insight into how he manages to process his photos or what I am doing wrong, please reply.</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    Getting used to Leica viewfinder

    in DSLR & Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys,<br>

    I've had a Nikon SLR for a while now. I am very happy with it, but I also want to add a rangefinder to my collection. I've decided on the Leica M6, but I still have some reservations.<br>

    Can anyone tell me if it was difficult getting used to the "framelines" on Leica camras? I am used to my F3HP which shows almost exactly what will be on the negative. I will exclusively use 50mm and 35mm lenses.<br>

    Just to make sure I understand correctly: the M6 viewfinder shows the area outside the frame, and other frame lines as well? Does that get confusing/is it hard to envision your picture?</p>

    <p>Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.<br>

    Thanks</p>

     

    Nikon F3 ring flash

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I see everywhere that this ring flash is for use with "Macro" lenses. I have the Nikkor 50mm f/2 AI. Does it have to be reversed into Macro mode (with the BR-2 ring reversing ring) before the SB-21A will work? Or can I just attach it to my lens regularly?</p>

    <p>Also, how well does the SB-21A/B perform? Those of you who have used it, are you pleased with the results?</p>

    <p>What other options do I have for a ring flash?</p>

    Nikon F3 ring flash

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Hey guys,<br>

    I have a Nikon F3HP with a Nikkor 50mm f/2 (AI or AIS, not sure). I'm interested in buying a ring flash for it. I read that the SB-21A and SB-21B are Nikon ring flashes that work with the F3 model.</p>

    <p>What is the difference between the SB-21A and SB-21B?<br>

    Should I have a problem attaching them to my 50mm f/2 lens?<br>

    Do they work with wider lenses? (I'm thinking of getting a 35mm or even something wider later)</p>

    <p>Thanks, feel free to leave any other related info.</p>

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