daniel_flounders2

I think it's just with this particular coin, I don't have much issue with duller coins. I do shoot at base ISO (200 in this case), not been using raw for these recent ones as the epl2 gives a pretty good JPEG result. However there are a few options with the epl2 I'm yet to fathom out regarding noise filter and graduation options.

<p>UPDATE:<br /> SO I purchased an Olympus E-PL2 on ebay because it was cheap and I also picked up the 50mm f3.5 Zuiko Macro lens, again, they are pretty cheap. I grabbed an old £25 enlarger locally and binned most of it keeping the base and arm section. With an old and cheap but solid rail I've got everything I need... on a budget that is. Oh and I got some Jansjo lights for illumination,but not so sure about them.<br /> Here is a photo of an old Alexander III Scottish silver penny, very worn. The coin is just 15mm in diameter, admittedly it's a little underexposed but that was to keep the silvery looking center under control.<br /> <img src="http://i.imgur.com/YR6w1KB.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="813" /><br /> While the detail isn't bad, I'm not entirely happy with it, the image seems grainy or something. I'm wondering if it is specular highlights from the light hitting the tiny dots of the silver showing through the oxidized coin. So I'm thinking should I try axial lighting next or is there some trick to resolving these issues?</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Daniel</p>

Thanks all for contributions, very interesting. I've actually used scanner before to scan coins, but I do have to be careful as some of them are ancient and very fragile. The scanner is not better nor worse than a camera, it is just different... and it is nice to have in the arsenal. The scanner can capture detail in the coin that one cannot see with eyes alone, but it can also can lose some of the detail, every situation I found is different. On the other hand, to really show of the coin and all its glorious patina, a camera and lens with good lighting is required. I recently scanned a 13th century hammered coin that was 50% worn on the reverse and 70% warn on the obverse. The reverse side scanned well and more detail was visible in the scan than what I could see with my eyes, however, the scan of the obverse left virtually no detail in the scan and I could see more with my own eyes viewing the coin. So like I say, the scanner works well to compliment the camera, but neither can replace one another.

@Stephen; Great thanks. @Gerry; I haven't found any of grandpa's things yet, but I have a good feeling about this year � @Lex; thank you, yet another very detailed response, and also useful. Funnily enough I have a small window with Venetian blinds which are very similar to white diffuser material. I'll give that a go, nothing better than natural light �. Thanks all

Gerry, When I mean relics I mean things like this, though these aren't mine.<div></div>

<blockquote> <p>Gerry,</p> <p>Thank you for your detailed response, it was very informative and useful.<br> At some point I shall invest in a copy stand (I have my eye on one already) and even a soft box and light panel to rest the coin on. But that will have to wait till funds allow. For now I think some cheap daylight LEDs as you have will be fitting to the task.</p> <p>I agree that, from past experience, creating your own 'rig' has its benefits; not all pre-made setups work for your specific requirement, you can adapt your setup much easier - of course, it is also more rewarding.</p> <p>Thanks again for taking time to respond.</p> <p>Daniel</p> </blockquote>

<blockquote> <p>True, but I haven't any gear now so I'm starting a fresh.<br> While I love canon gear, I feel a change of direction this time as my needs have changed.<br> I'm going to see what ebay has on offer :-)</p> </blockquote>

<blockquote> <p>No worries.<br> I think i'll put it down on the list of potentials... cheers.</p> </blockquote>

<blockquote> <p>Hi Stephen,</p> <p>Thank you. I have used extension tubes in the past with success.<br> Out of interest, do you have a non-compressed version of that picture you can send me?<br> I can see the size and clarity of the coin, but there is a lot of compression artifacts in it for the obvious 'save to web' reason.</p> </blockquote>

<p>Hi,<br> I have the requirement to photograph coins and relics (for my own use, not professionally) but unfortunately I sold my 'perfect' gear 18 months ago due to lack of use. That Canon 100mm f2.8L was sweet :-( but really couldn't afford to have it just sat there. <br> So I'm looking for something cheap n cheerful to photo this stuff.<br> I feel the most important part of the equation here will be the correct lighting setup, as even my Smartphone with a macro lens add-on takes reasonable shots (aren't using that though).<br> I don't care about camera type (obviously DSLR will be the best) but I also know modern P&S cameras do a reasonable job, though not ideal.</p> <p>I've considered the Canon G9-G16 cameras, but have seen a lot of complaints about dust on lens/sensor which has put me off a bit.<br> People have also suggested bridge cameras from Fuji for a cheap option (never rated fuji tbh).<br> However, I'm thinking the best combo would be something like a used EOS 30D/40D with a dedicated tamron/sigma/Tokina lens.</p> <p>I'm happy to buy used and there are loads of Nikon / Canon / Pentax bargains out there, but I'm only familiar with Canon.<br> However I'm not fussy tbh.</p> <p>Thanks<br> Danny</p>