matt_veld
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Posts posted by matt_veld
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I would back the choice of Delta 400 and Xtol 1:1, or 1:2. Great for
Tmax 100 and 400 as well. Really makes those 8x10 glossy prints glow.
The advantage of the Xtol is it's sharpness and the tonal range is
pretty good too.
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Can anyone tell me whether the old Watson 66 bulk film loader made by Burke & James can take a 100' roll of film, or is it limited to a lesser amount? Thanks.
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I have recently purchased a Minolta X-700 for my son. I noticed that it had a large piece of dust on the top side of the focussing screen. I removed, cleaned and returned the screen, which was akin to delicate brain surgery. However I'm not sure whether I replaced the screen the correct way up. Can anyone tell me whether the fresnel side of the screen is the side that faces the mirror or the is it the clear side?
By facing the mirror I mean the side that you could touch with a brush or similar once it is installed, ie. the underside.
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I personally prefer Delta 400 to Tmax 400, developed in Xtol 1:2. For
color prints, Kodak Royal Gold 400.
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I would seriously consider dropping the 50 for now and just going
with the 35/2 Asph and the 90. The 50 is a wonderful lens but that 35
Asph is magnificent. You could always get a 50 latter on when the
piggy bank has recovered.
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Yep, a film chip and quite a large one at that. I roll my own from a
bulk loader and I noticed that the leader of one of my exposed films
had a triangular piece missing from it. Right after that the problem
with partly exposed frames began.
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Found the problem. It was indeed a chip in the film gate; dug it out
and all is well, except I accidentally poured fresh full strength Xtol
into one of my tanks instead of fix tonight :-). Must be getting old.
<p>
Thanks for the help.
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I am suddenly getting negatives that are only 3/4 to 1/2 exposed across the frame with my M6. Exposed side is on the right side of frame. Some are not there at all and only one or two frames are complete on a 36 exposure roll (my last two rolls have been like this). Can anyone shed some light on what is happening?
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Very cute dogs!
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Once you've used up your Jessop film try using Tmax 400 and Delta 400
developed in Xtol 1:2 or Tmax developer 1:4. I'm not sure what the
Jessop film is but it is more than likely an Ilford film because of
their association with that company. Incidentally I like the Jessop
VC RC glossy paper very much.
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The current 50 Summicron is apparently the same optically as the
previous version and is very sharp as you would know having owned
one. I find it useful for half body shots such as the ones I recently
took of the neighbours twelve year old girl on a swing under their
big old oak tree.
<p>
The 50 focal length has a nice perspective to it and the Summicron
50/2 also has a very nice out focus rendition. I can't speak for the
Summilux version or the Elmar however for the price you really can't
go wrong with the Summicron. Personally I would consider a near mint
condition used one prefably the model before the current version
because of it's focussing tab. I have heard that the Summicron has
the edge in contrast and sharpness over the Summilux and Elmar;
whether this is really true or not I don't know.
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Mark,
<p>
I forgot to mention www.aucklandcamera.com who has brand new Leica
stock for he following prices Leica M6 TTL A$3,150 and 35MM f2 Asph
Black for A$1,950. These prices are for new Leicas. The prices I gave
you in my previous post for the New Zealand Leica M6's are wrong
because I forgot to deduct 12.5% GST.
<p>
Personally I wouldn't get the 0.58 version unless you wear glasses or
have a penchant for wide angle lenses.
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Mark, that price is excessive. You should be able to pick up a nice
non-TTL version for about US$1,250 and the lens for about US$900 from
www.ebay.com. Just type in Leica M6 for the body and Leica 35 for the
lens. I don't know what kind of import duty there is in Aussie for
second hand goods; pay to check with your customs.
<p>
You also could consider a new Leica 35/2 ASPH lens from the
Australian importer and just get the body from ebay. Also when
dealing with ebay make sure of the persons history and place your
bids at the last moment. Another place worth a look is:
<p>
http://www.donchatterton.com and
http://www.classicconnection.com/inv_leica.htm
<p>
These are reputable dealers and have good stocks of Leica M gear.
Again it would depend on what duty you would have to pay as to
whether it is worthwhile.
<p>
There are two dealers here in New Zealnd who have some second hand
M6's in stock:
www.cameratraders.co.nz has a black M6 in excellent+ condition for
AU$2,700 which is about $US1,300
<p>
and:
www.dunedin-direct.co.nz/jonathans/jonathans.htm who has a chrome M6
in near new condition except for a deep scratch on the back near the
eyepiece for the same price.
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I have used a Billingham bag for 21 years. I bought one of their
first models which is fairly large and it is as good today as the day
I bought it apart from some slight fading. These bags are made for
the long haul.
<p>
The Billingham was fine when I carried around Nikon gear but now I
have changed to Leica I find my bag a little large and cumbersome.
I'm going to buy a Domke F6 which I hear is a good little bag for a
couple of Leica M's and a few lenses.
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Minh,
<p>
You can visit this site for some of the information you require:
http://www.imx.nl/photosite/leica/mseries/testm/M2-90.html
<p>
I don't own either of the two lenses you mention, however from all
accounts the Elmarit-M 90mm F2.8 is superior optically to the
Summicron-M(non APO)90mm F2 in terms of sharpness. I recently bought
the APO-Summicron-M f2:0/90 ASPH and it is a superb lens but I would
of been quite happy with the Elmarit I'm sure.
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Consider the new Delta 400 professional with Xtol diluted 1:2. I
think in the long run you are better off to stick with a proven
quality film even if it does cost a little more.
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Xtol 1:2 (distilled water) with TMX gives good acutance if you don't
mind the possible risk of a bad batch; so far I have been lucky.
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Has anyone have any idea what a used Leitz V35 colour module in excellent condition would be worth?
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If the more gentle agitation doesn't work try 7 minutes at 70 degree
F exactly.
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Are you using the old Delta 400 or the new Delta Pro 400? You may be
using the older version and using development times for the newer
version which are longer. Have you checked out this site?
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It definately sounds like a case of overdevelopment. You could try
Xtol at 1:2 which works well with Delta 400. Another problem may be
over agitation. Try gentle agitation for the first 30 seconds then 3
inversions every minute after that. Do all these things one at a time
of course.
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Thanks Bill.
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I doubt whether a street thief would know what a Leica is in this
part of the world, therefore I don't black tape. In New York etc. it
may be a different story.
<p>
As an aside, I personally find the red dot very 'tacky' looking, a
black one would IMO be a lot more aesthetically pleasing.
is there any one ashame of this leica talk?
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
I agree about the comments concerning the LUG. I find it of little
value and inhabitated by some very rude egocentric individuals as
well. This forum is relaxed and very informative. I look forward to
reading the posts here.