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enrico_v.

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Posts posted by enrico_v.

  1. <p>This is my opinion:<br /> <strong>RANGEFINDER</strong>: Leica M3 or M5, but crazy expensive lenses!!!<br /> M3; the "nicest" with a great finder but lack 35 frame and "bulky" meter, no hot shoe.<br /> M5: the more complete but bigger so not pleasant to work with usual lenses (great with bigger lenses and with visoflex instead)<br /> <strong>SLR</strong>: Leicaflex SL or SL2, Pentax Spotmatic SP II or KX , Nikon F2AS.<br /> Leicaflex SL; rumours say was the strongest reflex ever made, but the meter is not so sensitive at low light, not hot shoe, and focusing with bad eyes not so easy, great with long lenses, "bad" with short lenses. <br /> Leicafle SL2; rumours says is less strong than Leicaflex SL ( however great...) sensitive meter, hot shoe, easier to focus with short lenses and less good with very long lenses. In my opinion, the best balance of Leica reflex.<br /> Spotmatic SP II; finder not so bright but easy to focus even with bad eyes, quite sturdy and very easy and cheap to fix, stepless dial times (Like Leica SL,SL2, M3 and M5), lenses from 24 to 200 are cheap and great (less good compared to Leica M but not so far from Leica R) and very pleasent to work with ( I call it the "japanese M3"). Slow to change lenses with M42 mount.<br /> KX; Take Spotmatic, change the mount system, a better lightmeter, improved the number of great lenses. But more expensive lenses compared with Takumar S-M-C Spotmatic (usually) because rarer (K SMC) <br /> Nikon F2AS: the best nikon, best lens system for number, very good performance ( I prefer Pentax Takumar however), very complete system, not stepless dial for all times. If you want to use lenses with digital too, the right solution.<br /> <strong>Practical considerations for use today</strong>, I suggest:<br /> Do you want the best with film cost no object? Leica M first, Leica R second.<br /> Do you want the best with film cost object? Take Spotmatic SP II, not KX or Nikon.<br /> Do you want to use lenses with digital too? Take Nikon from all.<br /> Thats all in my opinion, regards Enrico.</p>
  2. <p>Well, It dipends on what camera I am working.<br>

    If I work with Leica (M and R), Zeiss (Rollei 35 S, Contax N) or Pentax (Takumar S-M-C) I prefer Kodak, but if I work with Minolta I prefer Fuji:<br>

    for mi taste is the better solution, for color prints and for slides too.<br>

    For B&W, Tri-x Kodak.<br>

    For the kind of film, I follow the suggestion of makers:<br>

    for example ,for weddings with Leica, I prefer Kodak portra 160NC and so on...<br>

    My suggestion is:<br>

    choose the film that fits your needs with your camera.<br>

    Stop.</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Hi, this is my 2 cents answer...<br /> Nikon F, F2, Canon F1, Spotmatic Sp II was tested for 100.000 - 150.000 shots, and Leicaflex SL.<br /> Real life? I don't know.<br /> However it seems that the most reliable one is Leicaflex SL: I have hearded one of its with more 1.000.000 shots, but working in a laboratory for scientific purposes, so best inviroment (no rain, cold, and so on...).<br /> The most reliable camera ? Leica M3, but no SLR: Gianni Berengo Gardin, a famous italian photographer, calculated that during his life his M3 shoted more than 1.000.000 and never need a work...<br /> My opinion? All are great, it depends if the photographer treat them right, and when they need, do the right maintenence...<br /> I suggest Spotmatic because are very cheap,cheap lenses, cheap to do maintenance, with S-M-C lenses seconds only to Leica and best of other japaneses, in my opinion.<br /> By the way, I'm a Leica users...</p>
  4. <p>Dear Dennis W.,<br /> thanks for your reply, so I can write better what I think: at my eyes and in my opinion...<br /> As I wrote, I tested the Olympus 35 SP, Rollei 35 S and Leica CL with a projector Leica 2502 Pradovit with Leica lens colorplan 90mm. In the past I have had a Braun Projector with the his best lens, a 90mm f2,4 (Schneider? Maybe), more contrast than colorplan but worst colors. I have tested Leica super colorplan 90mm too, clearly the best of all, but with old lenses I prefer the standard colorplan.<br /> So why all this?<br /> Because I am very critical: I enlarge slide on 2x2 meters screen...<br /> At my eyes:<br /> Olympus 35sp have the "worst" rendition:"washed" and "dirty"color, flare easly. Definition and contrast less good.<br /> Rollei 35 sonnar quite sharp, not flary lens, not washed color , colors not in the same league of Leica.<br /> Leica, the best: even in the shadows and in bad light, leica lenses tend to have "sparkly"colors.<br /> I have wrote that Olympus is good enough for prints because prints are not so enlarged, film must be scanned, and so on... ; this procedure hides and kills Leica quality, so on prints final quality is not far because "the strenght of the chain" depends on "every strenght of the rings"; that's why Leica produced enlargers and projectors in the past, to give at their cameras the right "chain".<br /> By the way, in the past, I had an Olympus OM system...<br /> This at my eyes and what I think.<br /> Regards Enrico.</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>Hi, this is my 2 cents guess...<br>

    Agfa precisa ct 100 is only a rebadged slide film; maybe when Kodak slide films was made, was a kodak,but now only Fuji make slide films (as far as I know): so the only rebadged slide film available is Fuji...<br>

    So probably now it is the provia100f, the less vivid slide film, in the "Agfa style". The same quality controls?Who knows...</p>

     

  6. <p>Hi, I have got the following 3:<br /> Leica CL: the smallest and less expensive Leica, if you shoot slides. Great<br /> Rollei 35 S: without rangefinder, not so expensive like Leica, very small, very nice lens (not like Leica but "near"), if you shoot slides. <br /> Olympus 35 SP: the less expensive, a lot of functions (self timer, spot lightmeter, manual-auto, GN flash...) but lens far from Leica and Sonnar 40, if you shot slides.<br /> I have tested these cameras with a Leica slide projector PRADOVIT 2502 with colorplan 90 lens.<br /> So?<br /> If you shoot slide films, I would avoid Olympus;<br /> with slides I suggest Rollei because is less expensive. However, Leica CL is better...<br /> with B/W and color film, Olympus is good enough, more complete, and less expensive.<br /> My suggest with B/W and color film? Try Olympus 35 RC, cheap, good lens (like 35 SP? More contrast but less resolution lens? Maybe...); if you do not like its, you can resell or keep "loosing" very few money...( I have not 35 RC because 1/15 is not enough for me). <br /> That's my opinion,hoping it will help, regards Enrico.</p>
  7. <p>Hi this is my answer: I hope will help in the future...<br>

    Spotmatic is stop-down metering: it reads the REAL light through the lens with diaphram closed.<br>

    Problem if the lens is not a real f2,8, but for example is 3,2...It's happened with my takumar 105/2,8, 135/2,5...<br>

    At f8 all my lenses was good: try to move to f11 and if the needle display 1 stop less from f8, above is the reason...<br>

    Regards Enrico.</p>

  8. <p>Hi Carl, my name's Enrico, nice to meet you! I have got 4 Spotmatic SPII, the needle in the off position is good. <br>

    Stupid questions now:<br>

    1)Have you check the battery- time B and switch on-position of needle all down?<br>

    2)Are contacts of battery clean?<br>

    3)What kind of battery do you use?<br>

    Wein Cell PX400 last only few time; better to use 394 battery, for example, because your beloved Spotmatic have a bridge circuit so balance the different voltage perfectly...<br>

    Regards, Enrico.</p>

  9. <p>It'a an old thread, there are not many opinions on Nikonos V above water, so my reply: probably someone could be interested in the future...<br>

    I am a Leica M and R user, I own a Spotmatic S-M-C system too, and I use mainly Kodak slides.<br>

    Nikonos are camera I suggest to skilled people: you have to evaluate the distance...You have to use the finder for the 80... so I suggest to use if you like to work around...<br>

    Camera is not as silent as a Leica M but better than a reflex: around a Leica CL...<br>

    Meter system in very good: I have got a V model.<br>

    Lenses:<br>

    <strong>35mm</strong> Very flare prone. Please forget the original sunshade: is useless. I have adapt with great result an original (for 85mm?) nikkor lens shade that works great, so I suggest you. Compared to Leica or Takumar, there is no game: nikkor show low contrast and good but not so crisp details...an "average " quality lens ...however colors are very good: a simmetric lens design so colors are well corrected. A low contrast lens can be use in contrasty situations to balance the lights , and with a very good color rendition, nice shots are done. Nice shots in low light.<br>

    <strong>80mm</strong> A very good lens, better than 35mm. Increase contrast, crisp details, and the color in the same league of the 35. Adapted the same sunshade of the 35.<br>

    <strong>Overall: </strong>It is not the Nikon M of the cameras: however colors are nice (not like Leica but better than usual, let's say Zeiss) so with the right film for the situation you can have very good shoots.<br>

    Hope it will help, regards Enrico.</p>

     

  10. <p>Hi, these are my impressions over Olympus OM system.<br>

    Olympus OM was my first camera system. I shot mainly with slides with Leica colorplan 90 to see them<br>

    Now my systems are:<br>

    1)Leica M (CL and M5 with lenses from 21 to 560: Visoflex, of course)<br>

    2)Leica R (SL2 with lenses from 21 to 560 with Angenieux zooms)<br>

    3)Pentax M42(Spotmatic SPII with lenses from 24 to 300 S-M-C)<br>

    4)Nikonos (5 with lenses from 15 to 80)</p>

    <p>MY OLYMPUS OM REVIEW<br>

    I owned OM-1n and OM2SP cameras, and 21/3,5 , 24/2,8 , 28/2,8 , 50/1,8 , 50/3,5Macro , 200/4 , 35-105 , 35-70/3,5-4,5 , 75-150/4 lenses.<br>

    In my opinion this system has got its strenght and its weakness.<br>

    CAMERAS<br>

    My favourite was OM-1n<br>

    The precision of the LIGHTMETER was great: even if was CDS, it was able to read in very low light too and was flawless even with coloured black and white filters!!! However you must be careful because the light can enter easly from the finder, so I suggest to use an eyecup.<br>

    The FINDER was bright, however have got some weakness: only in the central area you can focus because outer area is blurred; not possible to see all the area you shoot expecially with glasses due to high enlargement. I suggest to buy optional original 2-13 screen, brighter than standard 1-13, even if you have to modify on OM-1n (no problem with OM-2SP)<br>

    Some PROBLEM WITH SPEED from 500 ad above, expecially if was cold outside( due to different speed of the curtains?) not al the area was exposed in the same way: darker in the left side, brighter in the right side (with slides)<br>

    ERGONOMIC was great with motor winder: not so great without (I have got big hands...)<br>

    Hot shoe with OM-1n was bad: crack easly.<br>

    LENSES<br>

    21/3,5 A real masterpiece!!! In the daylight, in the same flavour of Leica M!!! In the shadows, color tend to be a little dirty, here Leica M is better...<br>

    24/2,8 Excellent lens, but the sparkling colors of the 21 are gone...<br>

    28/2,8 Very good lens, but warm colors<br>

    50/1,8 Very good lens (as almost standard lenses...)<br>

    50/3,5Macro Great lens: better than 1,8.<br>

    35-70/3,5-4,5 Dirty colours: so so lens...<br>

    35-105 Good lens from 35 to 70, not so good at 105 (Expecially in macro mode)<br>

    70-150 Great at 70, good at 100, good at 150<br>

    200/4 So so lens<br>

    Dust tend to enter easly into the lenses: from DOF button, I suppose.<br>

    Lenses tend to have flare and ghost pictures more than usual.<br>

    I was involved in Olympus system, so if you would buy 5 lenses, I suggest these ones: 21/3,5 , 35/2,8 , 50/3,5Macro , 100/2,8 , 200/5 . All are 49mm tread filters, thiny in the Olympus style! I know, 100/2 and 180/2,8 are great, but too expensive; 85/2 was great at low distance, not so great at high distance.<br>

    Hoping it will help you, enjoy your Olympus system!!!</p>

    <p> </p>

  11. <p>Hi, it's the first time I write here, nice to meet you!<br>

    This is my opinion about Spotmatics.<br>

    I'm a Leica user: I own Leica M5, Cl and SL2 with about all the sistem M and R (from 21 to 560 with Angenieux 35-70 and 70-210 zooms and Visoflex), Nikonos V (from 15mm to 80mm), and I use mainly slides (kodak) with leica Pradovit 2502 and colorplan 90 lens.<br>

    I use mainly Spotmatic now because Leica are too...preciuos!<br>

    I have chosen Spotmatic (SpII) because I think they are the "closest" camera to my Leicas.<br>

    I own 24/3,5 , 35/ 3,5 , 55/1,8 , 105/2,8 , 135/2,5 , 150/4 , 200/4 , 300/4 all S-M-C.<br>

    Spotmatics are great and "tricky" cameras: hate or love.<br>

    Finder is great because, even if your sight is not at the top, it is very easy to focus even in low light: it is not very bright but it is very contrasty.<br>

    Light meter is very good: choose lens aperture and select CONTINOUSLY the speed (like my Leicas): so, after chosed a combination of speed-aperture, you can use for all the lenses: in my opinion, for a situation, the best way using slides . Light meter is stop-down (no aperture simulator) and very accurate ( in my cameras).<br>

    Takumars S-M-C are great lenses, but have got their troubles: 24 is real 4, 35 is 4, 55 is 2, 105 is 3,2 , 135 is 3,2 , 150 is 5,6, 200 is 5,6 , 300 is 5,6 ( in my lenses); from f8, aperture are ok...<br>

    M favourite way to meter is find the right area to meter , choose the aperture and switch the lever not all, only half with the finger , and select continously the speed and release the lever without stop it in the upper position: in this way, you can look to DOF too without problems in lens aperture simulator! Faster to do than write its! Generally, light do not change very quickly... <br>

    Ergonomic is perfect (I have got big hands...)<br>

    Not very silent camera (is a reflex!), but without vibrations during the shoot.<br>

    Very sturdy camera and very economic to CLA! I use a 394 battery without problems!<br>

    It is a screw mont camera, so changing lens is slow: only real problem, but I do not care. If you care, choose an old Pentax Kx with the same Pentax K SMC lenses ;-)<br>

    The style with the real hard leather case and half case is woderfull!<br>

    Spotmatic with S-M-C Takumars is my favourite japanese system: strange are so underrated...</p>

    <p> </p>

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